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Ticking from fresh motor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Euphoric306
  • Start date Start date Dec 19, 2009

Euphoric306

New Member
Apr 5, 2004
905
0
0
Dec 19, 2009
#1
  • Dec 19, 2009
  • #1
Long story short, just got done with a fresh rebuild on the bottom end, but that's not the issue. Car is a 96 cobra with 160k on the chassis and 400 miles on the bottom end. Heads were straightened at a machine shop and compression checked, all good.

last night I got on the cobra a little bit, nothing too rough but took it up to about 5500 in 3rd gear on the freeway. I'm aware of the taboos of breaking in a new motor, etc., however I've been told by many people including my father who builds industrial diesel engines regularly that there really is no break in period necessary. Idle them for a half hour or so and they can be put to work. Still, I've been taking it easy and never over 4k rpm.

Either way, this ticking is not the bottom end anyway, so on to the real question...

Before the engine rebuild, there was a ticking coming from the top end, usually on cold startups and only at idle. When revved even the slightest it went away and usually went away after warm-up. This was still present after the rebuild, during the same conditions except it didn't seem to go away after warm-up.

After getting on the car a bit, which it feels like a huge power loss after 4k (possibly due to bad O2 sensors, I have a CEL showing currently but don't have the time or resources to address it immediately), the ticking is now there constantly. Hot or cold, idle or not, it ticks and it's driving me mad.

I'm assuming is a clogged lifter or something of the like, doesn't seem like there's much else that can make noise in the top end. The valves looked good as far as Dougan's was concerned, he straightened the heads which were warped .006" and did a very nice job of cleaning them up, and checked compression. If anyone can give any input on this as to what it may be, and what would be involved in fixing it (does the motor have to be pulled or can it be done in-car). I'm guessing just pull the cams and replace the lifters, but not sure whether everything is accessible with the motor in the car.

Thanks in advance for any input.


edit: checked the oil and it's about 1/4 the way between MIN and MAX, it was about half way after the motor was first run for a half hour or so. No visible leaks yet, but it is hard to see for sure with this damn motor. Currently running 5W-20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend with just over 400 miles on the motor. Also, the oil consumption is probably due to the rings still seating
 

jeremy canter

Member
Dec 2, 2008
402
0
17
Orange County , NY
Dec 19, 2009
#2
  • Dec 19, 2009
  • #2
you need new Lash adjusters> with 160,000 miles > even a fresh rebuilt motor will still tick if you don't put new one's in > buy the tool from Summit Racing and new adjusters and you can change them in the car but you will have to pull the upper intake off to get the valve covers off , your lack of power could be timing from the chain's not being on right or your lossing lift from the bad lash adjusters.
 

Euphoric306

New Member
Apr 5, 2004
905
0
0
Dec 19, 2009
#3
  • Dec 19, 2009
  • #3
Thank you Jeremy, with a few google searches it looks like that shouldn't be an issue changing with the motor in car.

However, it also appears a screwdriver will do the work of the $40 tool on summit, so I'll probably end up doing that as well. Another thread on this forum had a video of it being done quite easily.
 

beaststang

New Member
Nov 16, 2009
21
0
0
Dec 20, 2009
#4
  • Dec 20, 2009
  • #4
Summit is great but don't you want free shipping on anything they sell?
 

jeremy canter

Member
Dec 2, 2008
402
0
17
Orange County , NY
Dec 20, 2009
#5
  • Dec 20, 2009
  • #5
take some pic's and post some link's if you get the time so others can see your screw driver trick and see what were talking about. > and good luck !!!
 
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