Time for another bolt-on. WHAT?

[007]

I guess theres no way I can justify buying a blower anytime soon, but I'd like to do something CHEAP to the stang now its out of storge. I like the look of the new BBK plenum but I am honestly not too thrilled by the dyno gains from the plenum/TB combos for 300-400 bucks (see testing on modular depot).

So I know some guys on here are happy with JBA shorties. 500 bucks and it seems they offer a more significant gain than the plenum stuff. I already have a full length mid-pipe that I dont want to sell, and I dont want to have to deal with longtubes anyway (install and tranny work PITA).
So I found the BBK tuned length shorties for 300 bucks. Seems like a very nice price to me. Anyone seen results from the BBK shorty headers?

Other suggestions on what to get (300 bucks or less to spend).

 

[Gunfighter]

it looks like you have most of the other 'goodies' too, so I can understand why you feeling like you are running out of options. I couldn't tell from your sig, but if you have a 5 spd (and don't already have one) I'd go for a short throw shifter.
Other than that, the intake/TB combo might be next for you. Dragon has a nice plenum/TB combo that has been tested to add some power, maybe that might be another option over the BBK or the shorty headers.

 

[007]

it looks like you have most of the other 'goodies' too, so I can understand why you feeling like you are running out of options. I couldn't tell from your sig, but if you have a 5 spd (and don't already have one) I'd go for a short throw shifter.
Other than that, the intake/TB combo might be next for you. Dragon has a nice plenum/TB combo that has been tested to add some power, maybe that might be another option over the BBK or the shorty headers.

Yeah. I'm auto thus the lower dyno numbers. I cant help but think changing those crappy stock manifolds for the bbk headers has to free up more power than replacing the stock intake plenum, and its cheaper anyway. Has anyone seen dyno results for the bbk headers. I'm tempted to get them and do a b4 after dyno myself.

 

[007]

I've found them for 270 plus 25 shipping. I'm very tempted to order these now - such a good price. Any input?

 

[DBMSTNG]

i think your only options are the headers or the throttle body/plenum combo. N/A accufab makes the most power. blown, the Dragon makes the most. the headers will be a beech to install.

 

[007]

i think your only options are the headers or the throttle body/plenum combo. N/A accufab makes the most power. blown, the Dragon makes the most. the headers will be a beech to install.

Are shortys really a PITA. I was thinking it'd be easy!! I know LTs suck to install.

 

[Jones331]

Are shortys really a PITA. I was thinking it'd be easy!! I know LTs suck to install.

Since you have the X and the cat back I would just finish off the exaust side of things and go with the shorties,I know the install is a pain but that will finish one part of the car and you can then start a new phase of modding in a diffrent area. Thats how I built my 2001 GT and by working in one area untill it was done was the best for me...............jj

 

[stangman]

Are shortys really a PITA. I was thinking it'd be easy!! I know LTs suck to install.

shorties & LT's have the exact same install procedures man. you may as well do the lt's then to get the most power out of it & you can have the mid-pipe cut down if you dont' wanna spring for a new one. just make sure they order some ball & socket joints to weld on there, instead of welding it all together

 

[StangPro]

I think a TB/Plenum or good lower control arms would be your best bet, or maybe a grille delete?

 

[NasaGT]

Shortie install isn't too bad, just takes time. The ratchet-wrench is your friend.

 

[BrownPSU78]

The install might be harder, by if it were me I'd always go with longtubes.
--Brown

 

[StangPro]

I'll agree. Shorties are just as hard to install and you won't see hardly any power from them.

 

[Jackie Chan]

STALL!!!

plenum and t/b gave me a solid mph+, since I took them off the best mph i have trapped is 102.7 whereas the best before was 103.75

 

[007]

STALL!!!

plenum and t/b gave me a solid mph+, since I took them off the best mph i have trapped is 102.7 whereas the best before was 103.75

Yeah. I thought about a stall myself, but arent they really pricey? Like 700 just for the part right. A friend of mine has a perf shop, and he's going to give me a friend-price for the header install.

As for getting LTs, I agree with you all that they make more power. I dont want to cut/sell my mid-pipe though, and I have bad scraping problems with my K member and I worry about LTs being even lower?? I had figured the shorty install would be a lot easier than the LTs though.
I'm shying away from the plenum/TB for now, because theres a chance I may go with a KB 6PSI in the not so distant future.

 

[007]

STALL!!!

plenum and t/b gave me a solid mph+, since I took them off the best mph i have trapped is 102.7 whereas the best before was 103.75

Why did you take them off?

 

[Mike97gt]

Yeah. I thought about a stall myself, but arent they really pricey? Like 700 just for the part right. A friend of mine has a perf shop, and he's going to give me a friend-price for the header install.

As for getting LTs, I agree with you all that they make more power. I dont want to cut/sell my mid-pipe though, and I have bad scraping problems with my K member and I worry about LTs being even lower?? I had figured the shorty install would be a lot easier than the LTs though.
I'm shying away from the plenum/TB for now, because theres a chance I may go with a KB 6PSI in the not so distant future.

get a stall converter anything else is a waste untill you get one... i have a 5 speed myself... but i have customers with autos.. DAY AND NIGHT DIFFERENCE with a converter... you will cut about .3-.5 from your ET with it.. just dont buy a crappy one... save your money and buy a PI (percision industries) i would go for around 3000 for the stalll speed..

trust me on this.. i have built stangs,GN's and z28 autos... get the converter you will love it... ohh almost forgot you need too firm the shifts up a bit with the converter in and install a aftermarket trans cooler... so here is your list of what you should get...

1. converter

2. shift kit ( you need too firm up the shifts... the converter is a lot looser than stock.. your shift will be too soft)

3. trans cooler..

then after you have the converter (the best mod for a auto) then worry about headers and stuff that you will only get a minor gain from..

 

[007]

get a stall converter anything else is a waste untill you get one... i have a 5 speed myself... but i have customers with autos.. DAY AND NIGHT DIFFERENCE with a converter... you will cut about .3-.5 from your ET with it.. just dont buy a crappy one... save your money and buy a PI (percision industries) i would go for around 3000 for the stalll speed..

trust me on this.. i have built stangs,GN's and z28 autos... get the converter you will love it... ohh almost forgot you need too firm the shifts up a bit with the converter in and install a aftermarket trans cooler... so here is your list of what you should get...

1. converter

2. shift kit ( you need too firm up the shifts... the converter is a lot looser than stock.. your shift will be too soft)

3. trans cooler..

then after you have the converter (the best mod for a auto) then worry about headers and stuff that you will only get a minor gain from..

Thanks. I was under the impression that the stall will only give me a better launch(?), and my 18s dont give me enough traction right now (bigger rear wheels and tires are also planned). I'm also torn about working on the auto or switching to 5 speed. For the price of the stall etc. and then surely a reflash on my chip(?), its going to get REALLY pricey. I cant justify spending much right now.

<towlie>I have no idea whats going on</towlie>

 

[Jackie Chan]

you will love a stalled auto...and if you do go KB ...a stalled auto would be killer

edit: i pulled the plenum and tb off because i am selling the car.

 

[Mike97gt]

Thanks. I was under the impression that the stall will only give me a better launch(?), and my 18s dont give me enough traction right now (bigger rear wheels and tires are also planned). I'm also torn about working on the auto or switching to 5 speed. For the price of the stall etc. and then surely a reflash on my chip(?), its going to get REALLY pricey. I cant justify spending much right now.

<towlie>I have no idea whats going on</towlie>

really you need too trust me on this...

forget the long tubes or other stuff for now.. and get the stall converter... save up for it buy it install it and then you will thank me for the heads up..

BTW the 18's are really going too hurt your times... i would get different wheels too race on...

also keep the auto unless your really good with a manual.. you will get better et's and win more races...

 

[007]

really you need too trust me on this...

forget the long tubes or other stuff for now.. and get the stall converter... plus loose the 18's when you want too go racing... nobody likes our cars anyways... there not pimpmobiles

I'm not into drag racing at all. My car is lowered with stiff suspension and the 18s. I'm far more interested in street/daily driver performance. Will the stall make any difference other than the launch (where I have dont have enough traction for the 4.10s anyway)?? I'm still tempted to go 5 speed over spending the cash too. Is a stalled auto as quick as a 5 speed? - it still dynos lower.