Timing chain slack and clearance question

[1slowfiveoh]

I have some slack in my brand new Crane Cams timing chain that I feel is too much. I have ALL brand new parts and the simple solution would be just to order a FRPP timing chain because most people have good luck with those, but I want to know if the simple solution would help the slack problem and why my new timing chain is slack? Also, what would I be able to do if I buy the new chain and the problem remains?

Timing chain at rest:

Timing chain with slack taken out:

Also, the clearance between the block and the timing chain at the crank sprocket is very little if not almost nothing at all. The point is, I am worried the one of the chain pins will snag the block and bad things will happen....any input?
Here's a pic to detail what I am talking about:

Thanks for any help or advice anyone can give because I am sketchy about this engine build and I just want this project to go smooth. Thanks!!!!


-Justin

 

[1slowfiveoh]

:SNSign:

 

[rscapri30682]

Just wondering, you said a new chain so, I am guessing you bought a set right? Chain and spockets. If you bought a chain only, that may be your problem. The ol' rule of thumb is: if you replace your chain, replace the gears. But thats my input.

 

[1slowfiveoh]

Oops, I guess I should have specified. Sorry about that.....New timing set (sprockets and chain).

 

[rscapri30682]

So, its a matched set from crane? I've seen a buddy have a porblem like this because the chain was from one company and the spockets where new stock or an aftermarket ones. Just trying to understand your situation better.

 

[1slowfiveoh]

Yup...the part # to the matched set from Crane is: 44993-1 and here is the link to the part at Summit Racing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN-44993-1&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Thanks for trying to help me! I want to get this sorted out quickly so I can order the neccesary parts.

 

[MikeC]

Slack looks normal for a new timing set to me.

 

[Mustang_Punk]

Slack looks normal for a new timing set to me.

I agree

 

[EMW150]

It looks loose to me if it hasn't been run yet. Any chain and gear set I ever installed was tight when installed and stretches to that approximate amount of slack shown above. As far as block clearance, some sets require you to do a little clearancing. I had to on my block with my Billet setup.

 

[BlackBaer5.0]

DONT MOVE THE ENGINE>>STOP STOP STOP

STOP STOP
It looks like from the picture, You are about to do the same thing I did....

You have the bottom gear (on the crank snout) on backwards...thats why its so close to the block...I did that and broke the timing chain and chipped the block..

tur

 

[EMW150]

If it is on backwards the chain should be tight against the block and unable to turn over. Can't really tell by the pics.

 

[EMW150]

No it's on right, you can see the timing mark.

 

[BlackBaer5.0]

STOP, THE CRANK SPROCKET IS ON BACKWARDS!!!! do not go any further.

Do you see the "beveled" part of the crank timing chain sprocket.
that is supposed to be against crank the not facing out...this beveled part is "shim" that moves the timing chain away from the block..this will also take up your chain slack problem ..

Timing mark???? NO NO NO , NOT the cam sproket..Im refering to the CRANK SPROCKET...THE CRANK SPROCKET IS ON BACKWARDS....I REPEAT , the crank sprocket is on backwards....please read the entire post next time.


not a sermon , just a thought..


-geoff

 

[EMW150]

Do you see the "beveled" part of the crank timing chain sprocket.
that is supposed to be against the not facing out...this beveled part is "shim" that moves the timing chain away from the block..tis will also take up your chain slack problem ..

Timing mark???? NO NO NO , not the cam sproket..Im refering to the CRANK sprocket...THE crank sprocket is on backwards....I REPEAT , the crank sprocket is on backwards....please read the entire post next time.


not a sermon , just a thought..


-geoff

I did read your entire post. However, I can see lightly the timing mark at the keyway on the crank gear. The bevel on the front looks way too short to be on backwards looking at the front of the gear. Like I said before it's hard to tell in the pics. He needs to pull it off and maybe post a side view of the crank gear. The longer snout should face the block. And I have used sets that need slight block clearancing.

 

[BlackBaer5.0]

Its just that that was the exact same way mine looked when I broke it..
and I used the same timing chain he has.. Crane cam set, and I too went to the FRPP after I broke mine.

I just went out to my garage, and looked at my broken crane set.....I pretty sure that snout/beveled part is supposed to be against the block..

sorry for the internet yelling, The use of CAPS , was to get his attention since I didnt want him to break his chain or block like me...

quoted from 1slowfiveoh

"""Also, the clearance between the block and the timing chain at the crank sprocket is very little if not almost nothing at all. The point is, I am worried the one of the chain pins will snag the block and bad things will happen....any input? """

that was almost word for word what I posted about 2 months ago..

We shall see who is on the money when he tries it out..

-have a good one,
-geoff

 

[EMW150]

Its just that that was the exact same way mine looked when I broke it..
and I used the same timing chain he has.. Crane cam set, and I too went to the FRPP after I broke mine.

I just went out to my garage, and looked at my broken crane set.....I pretty sure that snout/beveled part is supposed to be against the block..

sorry for the internet yelling, The use of CAPS , was to get his attention since I didnt want him to break his chain or block like me...

quoted from 1slowfiveoh

"""Also, the clearance between the block and the timing chain at the crank sprocket is very little if not almost nothing at all. The point is, I am worried the one of the chain pins will snag the block and bad things will happen....any input? """

that was almost word for word what I posted about 2 months ago..

We shall see who is on the money when he tries it out..

-have a good one,
-geoff

You're correct. The snout part should go toward the crank. I'm just not sure that his has a slight raised portion on the front and the long (approx. 1/4") bevel facing the block. I've never seen one made that way (most are flush on the front) but the timing mark on the front makes me think it's possible that it's made that way. You can't get a depth on the pics because they're all straight on. Like I said though, I've used several different sets over the years that needed slight block clearancing. Like .010 or so. And I guarantee they were'nt installed backwards. One brand was Australian Muscle Car Parts and the other was Engine Works. No sweat on the caps, that gets attention.

 

[1slowfiveoh]

Everyone....Thank you for your replies. I went out to the garage and looked at my crank sprocket but it looks to be on correct. For verification, I took some pictures.

You can see the timing marks which I believe is supposed to face the front.

And another close up of the timing marks:

Here is a shot of the crank sprocket and the sprocket "spacer" attached to the back of the sprocket:

I broke down and ordered the FRPP timing chain set to see if it would make a difference and because I REALLY don't want to have to clearance the block if I can help it. So I am crossing my fingers on that one.

Again thanks for your help and I will keep you posted when I get the T/C chain set.

If anyone can see anything different from those new pics, please post them up!

-Justin

 

[1slowfiveoh]

Timing chain update!

So I received my new FRPP timing chain this morning and I put it on. It seems that the Crane timing chain set that I had had bought and installed has a slightly shorter snout on the crank sprocket which is shown in this picture here with the new sprocket on the left and the Crane sprocket on the right:

This new set bumped the clearance from the block out just enough to not have any block interferance shown here:

The new FRPP chain set also took care of my chain slack problem.

In this picture the chain is at rest. If you compare the first pic I posted with the Crane set to this you will see the huge difference in slack even at rest:

Here is with the slack taken out by my finger pressure. Compare it to the second picture with the Crane set:

I guess my problem is solved. Thanks to everyone that offered their help to me with this problem. I am sure I will have more questions but for now, I think I have it handled.

EDIT: I know someone will say something about the timing marks not lining up but I assure you, they line up. I had to keep taking off the ballancer bolt and everytime I did, it spun the crank slightly.

 

[EMW150]

You'd think a company like Crane would have this stuff figured out.

 

[1slowfiveoh]

You'd think a company like Crane would have this stuff figured out.

Yeah, I am not sure why there would be that much difference in sprocket depth, but there is a considerable difference. I trusted them to supply the correct parts but it looks like Ford Racing is the best bet in the end.

Thanks again for your help!