Timing Chain?

ok i posted a few days ago about a buddy of mine having a rattle coming from his motor. now i have a rattle. from hearing it i say its the timing chain. anyone ever have their timing chain rattle?? im almost positive thats what it is. just wanted to know if timing chains rattle from stretching and what not.
 
do you know what bad lifters sound like. that is more like a tapping sound but some call it rattle. your motor could run a little oddly if it had an old chain. how many miles since you replaced the timing set. if you do replace, go with a cloyse double roller set. that is a good brand, actually about the best brand
 
If you want a fast check on the chain put a timing light and see if it is has stable timing! Also check the tensioner and if it is a bad chain replace both with a double roller type like dastang2 said or if you need a little less expense Ford and Crane have cheaper units that are good enough for sure!
 
i think 87GTConv means to check the tension, not tensioner. i dont think we have tensioners. :-)

put a breaker on the crank and pop the dizzy cap off. turn the crank while noting how much rotation is required to start to turn the rotor.

good luck.
 
no it is a pain. the only thing you want to check if you get in there to do it, is the torque specs as you bolt in the new stuff.
 
sorry if my response was ambiguous. i was replying to you last sentence in the post above mine. you had said: [regarding accessing and swapping the timing chain] "or is it just that easy to get to?"

and i said: "no it is a pain."

yeah you have to strip some stuff off. and then i was saying that there is no point in goin in there to CHECK the condition of the chain -if you go that far, swap it even if it looks fine, IMHO.

BG, how did you know that the chain was loose (if a you found out from a means other than checkin it once the motor was out and being disassembled)?
did you use the crank turn vs rotor rotation test, timing light dancing test, or hear something....? some people have chains last quite a while and some dont. just curious. thanks :-)
 
HISSIN50 said:
sorry if my response was ambiguous. i was replying to you last sentence in the post above mine. you had said: [regarding accessing and swapping the timing chain] "or is it just that easy to get to?"

and i said: "no it is a pain."

yeah you have to strip some stuff off. and then i was saying that there is no point in goin in there to CHECK the condition of the chain -if you go that far, swap it even if it looks fine, IMHO.

BG, how did you know that the chain was loose (if a you found out from a means other than checkin it once the motor was out and being disassembled)?
did you use the crank turn vs rotor rotation test, timing light dancing test, or hear something....? some people have chains last quite a while and some dont. just curious. thanks :-)

i can just hear it. i first thought it might be the clutch fan going so i replaced it with a flex a lite but the rattle is still there. im almost positive its the chain. i really really do not feel like changing it :bang:
 
how about your water pump. wiggle the hub on it and see if it moves around. it may need to be replaced. just a thought. but if you have over 85,000 i would change it. maybe less if you really want to be safe
 
I don't think it's the timing chain. EVen loose they don't rattle really because of the way they are made. EVer take one out of the box and throw it around? It doesn't make much noise, nothing i would expect you to hear over a running 5.0 engine
 
i have to replace my heater core :bang: and i would love to know if its the timing chain or not cause the heater core will take enough time of my hands. the noise im hearing sounds like metal hitting together and is like a rattle type sound. i know that description sucks A55 but that is the only way i know how to describe it. also it sounds a good bit louder under heavy load and up hills. any other suggestions now that i gave a better description?? :shrug:
 
hey HISSIN50 I knew my timing chain was dangerously loose because of the method where you push the chain from one side, put a scribe mark, the push the chain the other way and put a scribe mark, then measure the distance between the two scribe marks, mine was way out of spec, I looked up the procedure so I did it right. and its the same way you measure if a tranfer case chain needs to be replaced or not, I wasn't refferring that I knew prior to taking it apart but now that I think about it my timing was incredible odd and inconsistant, huh, that might explain a few things.
 
bgjohnson said:
hey HISSIN50 I knew my timing chain was dangerously loose because of the method where you push the chain from one side, put a scribe mark, the push the chain the other way and put a scribe mark, then measure the distance between the two scribe marks, mine was way out of spec, I looked up the procedure so I did it right. and its the same way you measure if a tranfer case chain needs to be replaced or not, I wasn't refferring that I knew prior to taking it apart but now that I think about it my timing was incredible odd and inconsistant, huh, that might explain a few things.
BG, thanks for the response.
so you measured the slack with the timing cover off, from the sound of it (per the repair manual)....thanks for letting me know. im always lookin for a new way to check stuff like that without removing much on the car, hence my asking.

thanks again. :nice:
 
dastang2 said:
do you know what bad lifters sound like. that is more like a tapping sound but some call it rattle. your motor could run a little oddly if it had an old chain. how many miles since you replaced the timing set. if you do replace, go with a cloyse double roller set. that is a good brand, actually about the best brand

I bought a cloyes once. The metal was unevenly colored from the heat treat, and the as cast portions were really rough.

I returned it as quickly as I could, then I bought a Rollmaster. It's a double roller with a billet steel cam gear, 9 keyways, no cast iron. I had to choose between that and the FMS billet set which required machining to install. I'm glad I got the Rollmaster. It fit perfectly and the machining quality was outstanding. It was so good that I just bought another for my next engine. I found it on ebay for about $50. I don't know if you will be able to get the same price, but I paid $100 for my first Rollmaster and It was worth it.

Just make sure that if you do pull the cover, you don't put anything in that will make you pull it again.