Timing issue

[tommy_1812]

I just installed the BBK SSI intake kit with 70mm throttle body on my car. It has 1.6roller rockers and a mild cam installed. I know the cam is by comp cams. It has a slight lope to it, but nothing major. I don't know the specifications of the cam other than that. Whoever put it in there before obviously didn't make it known on what size cam, but it is small.

I am at a loss where to adjust the timing. By turning the distributor ever so slightly, I was able to drive and pull over to re-adjust it. The cars original timing of 10 degrees caused the car to barely pull, and felt very bogged down. Plus it stalled often. I got it to where it will pull (but not as hard as it could). It has a lot more power than with the stock intake and tb.

There is also a constant whistling noise that comes from the throttle body area. It goes away when you rev the motor, only whistles at idle.

Does anyone know a good timing adjustment for the current setup I have?

 

[tommy_1812]

unable to communicate with computer error

I also noticed that my check engine light is on. Trying to pull codes at the local mechanic resulted in an unable to communicate with computer error. What would cause the communication error with the computer?

 

[TomCat]

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? They often happen after an intake install and they could sound like a whistling noise. Other than that, I have nothing to add =) Good luck!

 

[86bluecobra]

Have you checked the toming with a timing light?
To pull codes you can get them your self by following these steps:



http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148 in this stickey is the instruction on how to pull the codes yourself.

 

[whtpny]

I think some aftermarket TBs are known for the whistle. Especially the BBK.
Set your timing at about 12 BTDC go for a ride and increase the timing a degree until it pings then back it down one. Make sure you are running good fuel. All of these cars like different timing.

 

[tommy_1812]

problem with the timing I discovered

One thing after another which is very frustrating. If you plan on getting the BBK SSI intake kit, make sure you have the head to intake gaskets. I figured for the price, the kit would come with EVERYTHING. That set me back two days.

Using a timing light didn't help at all. I noticed something which could be a problem. I have an SFI street damper balancer. After the install of the new intake and messing with the timing (I did mark the original point of timing on the distributor with white out before removing stock intake) I discovered the timing mark doesn't match anymore. The mark on the distributor is off from the harmonic balancer. I have no idea what the timing is now, except for driving and pulling over to adjust real quick. It still isn't precise.

It may also be helpful to note I took it to my mechanic and he did a vacuum test on the side of the manifold. It is running at 55 to 60 (millibars or psi? thats the measurments this guage had).

Since I installed the manifold, the computer wont let me or my mechanic pull codes. The check engine light is on, and stays on. Everytime I try to pull a code, it doesn't let me communicate. Everytime my mechanic trys to pull a code, it does the same thing.

Please tell me it's something as simple as a sensor. I did notice the distributor does have a slight crack towards the bottom part, but the crack isn't in any vital areas. My mechanic also confirmed the crack isn't urgent.

 

[ninety15.0]

Um...It sounds like you may be off by a tooth on the distributor. You need to get the engine back to TDC on the number one cylinder and re-stab the distributor to ensure you timed right...especially if your original white out mark doesnt line up!?! Next you need to re-set the timing back to the base 10* WITH a timing light and with the spout connector OUT. Then reconnect the spout and take it for a drive. Secondly...vacuum is normally measured in inches of mercury...so i have no idea what 55 milibars is?!?! Get a real vac gauge on there and tell us what the reading is. Should be anywhere from 12-18 in of Hg. I cant stress enough how inaccurate it is to adjust timing without a light...the movement in the dizzy is very sensitive and you could be anywhere right now without a light. As for the computer problems...i have no idea what that means...make sure to check that sticky note and connect the proper terminals.

 

[tommy_1812]

wtf is 11 o'clock TDC tape?

Thanks for the replies, especially ninety15.0

I was told I would need some timing tape for the harmonic balancer. The tech support for Jegs told me I'd need some tape that started at 11 o'clock TDC. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Frankly, I fail to see why I would need timing tape on the balancer. It's an aftermarket SFI with imbedded timing marks. How could it become misaligned? Time for a new harmonic balancer? It hasn't spun out either.

I'll try what the last post said. Right now, it runs like **** when started up. It detonates, and rpms drop to 400 or 500 (timing still off right?) When I drive it somewhat cold, the motor will buckle slightly if the rpms drop to 500. It also idles at 600 or 700 when warmer and runs GREAT! Timing may be off a few degrees?

 

[ninety15.0]

You should not have to use timing tape on the balancer if it already has the proper marks engraved in it. Let us know how it goes after you re-stab the distributor and re-time it.

 

[Foxfan88]

pull the dizzy, pull #1 plug and stick your finger over the hole. crank the engine with till #1 is at TDC, make SURE its the compression stroke TDC and not the exhaust stroke, the compression stroke will pop your finger out of the spark plug hole.

if u time it to the exhaust TDC the car WILL NOT start.

look down at the balancer, it the timing pointer should be on or very close to 0 on the balancer. if not your balancer could have spun

standing at the front of the car the rotor should be pointing around 10-11 o-clock

take your dizzy cap and find the 10-11 oclock terminal, put it close as you can to the rotor, put your #1 spark plug in and run your first plug wire from the terminal right over the rotor to the #1 plug.

i also like to look at the dizzy module, with my expierence, with the stuff lined up properly the dizzy module should be pointing at about 4-5oclock

then proceed and hook up the rest of the plug wires in the correct firing order.

as of right now the car should start and run, and will be in the ball park for correct timing, hook up the timing gun and set your timing, it shouldnt take much adjustment.

if it still doesnt work i would look at the balancer, the stock rubber can crack and break down allowing the the outer ring to spin around and not line up like it should. but if its off it will throw the bottem end off balance and you will have bigger problems to worry about.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

First question that I've noticed no one has asked, but what year is the car? If 94-95, do not use the connector under the dash to pull codes, it's non-functional. The 94-98 V6 Mustangs were OBD II, so the connector is there regardless of the engine installed. The 94-95 V8 models also have the OBD II connector under the dash, but it's not connected to anything, and will result in the communication error if you try to use it. Bring your car to TDC on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder, re-stab the distributor, and throw a timing light on to check/set timing to 10° BTDC. Then use the method to pull codes that was listed above.

 

[tommy_1812]

timing issue fixed

Thanks for the above hints. They did help in fixing the timing. It is currently set at 10 degrees. Would setting it to 12 or 14 derive any sort of benefit? The specs on the intake say it should be at 10 degrees. I've heard people on here set theirs to 14 degrees.

Also got a new set of spark plugs and wires, so a big difference should be made.

Thanks for the help.

 

[tommy_1812]

big difference

What a difference this makes! The timing was set at 12 degrees base, and I replaced all the spark plugs and the plug wires with accel 8mm's. The old wires were only 7 mm oem replacements and a few of them were arching. Overall, a tremendous difference in power and response. In second gear at 20 mph, the tires will spin if I press the gas down halfway or more.

 

[StangItMan]

Amazing what a tooth in distributor timing can do, eh?

Also using the SSI on my son's 347 - - - sweet and ours whistles a little too. See ya!