140cilx said:well Hawk, based on what you described, it seems fine, you could remove the belt as many times as you want, rotate the cam in relation to the cam as many times as you want, spin the distributor as many times as you want, but once you put everything back on their marks, timing is right.
Easy way to check: Where is the spark showing on the crank pulley when you have a timing light on it?
Also, don't trust the plastic timing belt covers for setting the marks for the crank TDC or cam setting - tons of slop in them. I would use the string method of running a string between the crank center bolt, to the auxillary gear bolt center and see if the string goes right thru the TDC mark. Or better, pull the #1 plug and find TDC using a small dowell or screw driver - easy to do. Same w/ cam, use the string to go from the bolt center on the cam gear to the bolt center on the aux gear. The string should go right through the cam pointer.
However, it still doesn't sound like that's the problem, even off a tooth or two the car will start right up. Maybe all three (crank, cam, dis) are off just slightly giving you the equivalent of 6 teeth off or something.
Let us know.
140cilx said:Once you get the hang of it, it's a breeze.
Easiest thing ever is using the timing light... but since you haven't mentioned that yet, is your rotor button pointing at or nearly at your firewall? Roughly it should that's where #1 should be when the dis is installed correctly.
You using a clymer or haynes manual to tell you your #1-4 plug wire locations on the distributor? I think I have a clymer - and it's labeled wrong, ran into that myself a long long time ago. Perhaps you have the plug wires on the distributor wrong? If I followed my Clymer manual, all it would do was backfire and no way would it start as it indicated #1 in I believe the #3 position. Anyway, all of the wires are off one position using the manual.
My question is this...Should I pull the distribitor back out and put it back the way I found it (180 out) ? This timing stuff really gets on my nerves exspecaily having three things to align up
140cilx said:No reason to do that. The bottom end, or crank/pistons do the same thing every rotation, they go up and down. They don't care if it's a fire or exhaust stroke.
It's the cam gear/dis gear you have to have matched properly. #1 plug has to fire after the intake valve #1 cylinder has just closed and the piston is approaching top dead center.
This means, that you remove the belt from the cam, leave the crank and aux where they are and rotate it 180 degree's.
But is the cam gear arrow indicator pointed at the aux gear? If it is, then it's right, and the aux gear is right if the button is on 1.
And then check the rotor button is pointing dead on #1 on the distributor cap. And that the plug wires are on properly.
I'd come down there and get ya set up if I could.
TIMING LIGHT?
140cilx said:rotate just the cam gear 180 degree's
If I do this wouldn't my cam gear marking point away from the ax shaft and leave me with only two markings lined up
140cilx said:Yes, you are right, if all the marks on on, but you rotated it 180, it'd be 180 degree's off.
2 outta 3 won't get it, this demonstrates that just rotating the dis as you mentioned earlier won't get it either.
TIMING LIGHT?
You're dead sure you've got those wires on correctly?
140cilx said:No sad faces, just show up at the reunion to redeem yourself, we'll have a blast, and all is well.
140cilx said:Ray,
Dude, you are kidding ...
October 15-17, Richmond, KY - DEF WORTH THE DRIVE! It's the automotive highlight of my year.
http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5295
Thanks for the 1st round, nothing better than an ice cold DIET COKE and chewing the fat w/ svo buds!
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