Tis about time.... rebuild questions.

[gcomfx.com]

Tis about time..... to pull the engine. Plan to pull it next month.

Need some recommendations on my engine. I have an engine builder that is going to port everything and assembly the pieces I give him, but he isn't up on 94-95s PITA needs. I also don't have an unlimited budget, but I plan to do things right.

I plan to work off of the Trick Flow Track Heat kit, and go from there. I'm not big on mix 'n match parts. Don't know that much about the internals of an engine. Originally I had planned to upgrade to the stage 2 cam as I've heard it and seen the power in a couple of friend's foxbodys (one 306, the other a 331) I really like the lope and idle as well.

I REALLY want to go 331/347 stroker if there is anyway possible I can swing it. There are not many in this area, everyone goes the blower route it seems.

I'll keep the Zex kit, but won't plan to put it back on the car until I get supporting injectors/mass air. I know the 24lbers will have to be replaced.

I fully intend on driving or hauling the car up to the St. Louis area to get it tuned by the great Don @ Lasotaracing.com - educational road trips are the best. I trust his work on a dyno with a SCT chip over my goofin' with a Tweecer and screwin' my stuff up and costing more money.

So back to the build. Am I hunting up the wrong tree with a stroker and stage 2 cam? I'm not looking for UNGODLY power/as much as I am more power, but dependability and keeping it halfway reasonable on money. Really want this baby ready by spring.

Basically if I could run 12.79 N/A I would be extremely happy. Yeah, I realize I'll probably need some more suspension mods, but those will come in due time. If I can get fast enough to need a roll cage on the bottle I'll have a grin that lasts a year.

Current setup:

3,000 Street Edge Converter, TransGo shift kit, 3.73s, Cobra Intake, 75mm pro-m M/A, 24lbers, 65mm TB, MagnaFlow mufflers, O/R h-pipe, performance chip, Eibach drag springs, 255lph fuel pump, Mac pullies, MSD dizzy, Strange 10-way shocks.

*****
This is not a wet dream thread, the engine is losing compression and WILL be rebuilt this winter. So please take me seriously. Thanks!

 

[BlackVert]

As you probably know, most of the money will go to the short block. I'll be getting my 331 short block from these guys:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=150036798870&ih=005&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

With this short block, a FTI cam, some used high flowing heads (not sure which ones I'll find yet), a Typhoon intake, and long tubes, I've been told I can expect about 350-375 at the wheels for about $4000.

 

[True 5.0]

I have a 306 rotating assembly and my good friend has a 331 short block from here. No problems at all.

http://www.dssracing.com

I would avoid the 347 as it will be an oil burner due to the ring and pin intersect on all variations that I am aware of except the one from Probe. That kit will eventuall result in piston-slap as the pin is off-center. I'm not familiar with NOS systems, but expect a real world 330 - 350 RWHP from a naturally aspirated 331.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Honestly track times mean a whole lot more to me than HP numbers. Guess it's part of that 100mphclub.com thing.

Here are the crappy dyno numbers from last year:

http://www.100mphclub.com/community/album_pic.php?pic_id=185

I found out the fuel regulator I had wouldn't crank up the fuel far enough for the juice. But the car didn't detonate either and I had raced it for 4 years like that. LOL I have since replaced the regulator.

Also, my dizzy was on it's way out and the timing was jumping around. Fixed that problem.

The dynos were in second gear. Couldn't seem to get the stall to keep me from dropping down into 2nd from 3rd.

 

[gcomfx.com]

I have a 306 rotating assembly and my good friend has a 331 short block from here. No problems at all.

http://www.dssracing.com

I've thought about going the crate route, but I would probably have my buddy take it apart and port everything anyway. So might as well have it build it too. Plus, I can trade out advertising and web design for the work.

 

[AznStanger3v]

well technically, a HCI 302 would put you in the 12s. look at everyone else on the board that has done it. Id do a 306. its less bs, and very reliable. you arent changing the geometry of stuff.

 

[gcomfx.com]

There are not a LOT of AODE cars in the 12s N/A with a 302/306.... there are a few, but those that are, either have steep pockets, or a whole lot more knowledge than I do. I figure the more help I can get up front, the better my chances are. My car will always be a daily driver if it needs to be, so Pump gas is a must.

Besides I said I would be extremely happy if it runs a 12.79 N/A - if it beats that.... well, that's just less juice to buy down the road.

 

[Dan95-5.0]

what did you change on Dynorun.007 compared to .005.

i would go with a 331 and trickflow kit with stage 2 cam. not sure how much are computers like the stage 2 cam tho.

are you sending your converter back to EDGE to get restalled?

 

[gcomfx.com]

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe 007 was the only run on the list that was a straight 2nd gear pull N/A. The jumps are from the downshift runs.

As far as the stall.... it really depends on Andre. I have another new friend that owns a tranny shop. He said he would go through the tranny while I had the engine out, as long as I wasn't in a hurry.

The stall was originally setup for a H/C/I car. So it's stalling around 2,800. If I go with a stroker, I'll check with Andre to see what he recommends. Heck, I'm kinda used to pulling the tranny now, I might just leave it alone, see how it does and send it back if I don't like it.

 

[Dan95-5.0]

ok. the reason i ask about the difference in dyno pulls is because i dyno'd the same number torque in your .005 pull. it felt a little low to me but the HP was about right. your .007 pull looks normal compared to other stick cars.

 

[blksn955.o]

I am guessing your coming to the STL for a SCT tuner and have Don help out over the net or something? Or is he making a trip to the STL? If he is coming to STL you could prob. get a group together on our local board to make him some money doing tunes for people to make it more worth his while.

There are several dyno shops that use SCT stuff.

 

[final5-0]

Paul

You could go stroker and not have to spend mega bucks.

You just can't expect to go real high rpm or feed it with a lot of boost/juice with a low budget setup like that. That don't mean it would not make good power.

I could not comment on hp or et as I really don't have much data on auto trans combos.

I don't wanna cause this thread to go sour so I'll put it like this

I'd go big as I could on the cubes

Don't know if this car is dd or toy but I also see it like you talked about

306 is gonna have to be a bit more radical
than
a stroker would have to be to obtain your goals

Grady

 

[Green 94 5.0]

I have a 306 rotating assembly and my good friend has a 331 short block from here. No problems at all.

http://www.dssracing.com

I would avoid the 347 as it will be an oil burner due to the ring and pin intersect on all variations that I am aware of except the one from Probe. That kit will eventuall result in piston-slap as the pin is off-center. I'm not familiar with NOS systems, but expect a real world 330 - 350 RWHP from a naturally aspirated 331.

if you are going n/a there is no reason not to go with a 347. but im not going to get into that again since its been beaten to death already.....

 

[Green 94 5.0]

also, if you are gong with the stage 2 cam, choose your pistons accordingly because they will need to be clearanced for the valves.

 

[gcomfx.com]

I am guessing your coming to the STL for a SCT tuner and have Don help out over the net or something? Or is he making a trip to the STL? If he is coming to STL you could prob. get a group together on our local board to make him some money doing tunes for people to make it more worth his while.

There are several dyno shops that use SCT stuff.

I talked to Don a few months ago. He said he could arrange to meet up in St. Louis if need be. But honestly, this is my baby, so I have no problems going all the way to him to get this done right. There is really NO ONE in my area that I've had recommendations about.

Basically it'll be his call. If he has something setup already, I might try to hit that date. However my job doesn't allow me to just take off whenever. Plus, I have a feeling I will need more attention than a group dyno day type situation usually gives. Down here, they load you on, run you three times, and kick you off.

 

[gcomfx.com]

ok. the reason i ask about the difference in dyno pulls is because i dyno'd the same number torque in your .005 pull. it felt a little low to me but the HP was about right. your .007 pull looks normal compared to other stick cars.

I wasn't overly impressed with the guy running the dyno at our group setup. I don't think he had ever dynoed a car with a stall before. I know it CAN be done in 3rd. I really think he was seeing the stall release lock-up and "stall" not actually down shift into 2nd. He kept waving off the run, and I was like "uh, it stayed in third this time, what's the problem?"

 

[gcomfx.com]

Don't know if this car is dd or toy but I also see it like you talked about 306 is gonna have to be a bit more radical than a stroker would have to be to obtain your goals

Glad you could see my point. I will never hit the engine with more than 125 shot of juice, and would rather be able to drop back down to the 100 shot to be honest. Kinda depends on how the chip works out. If I didn't have to change the fuel pressure when I want to spray, it would be great.

Now when you say, not get into high rpm... what are you referring to? I have occassionally hit 6,000 on my 302 when spraying. The AODE doesn't always shift the instant you allow it too.

 

[gcomfx.com]

also, if you are gong with the stage 2 cam, choose your pistons accordingly because they will need to be clearanced for the valves.

Ah... this is the kind of info I need. It's not going to be one of those, change it up at the last minute things. Good to know.

What cam would you recommend?

 

[final5-0]

Glad you could see my point. I will never hit the engine with more than 125 shot of juice, and would rather be able to drop back down to the 100 shot to be honest. Kinda depends on how the chip works out. If I didn't have to change the fuel pressure when I want to spray, it would be great.

Now when you say, not get into high rpm... what are you referring to? I have occassionally hit 6,000 on my 302 when spraying. The AODE doesn't always shift the instant you allow it too.

Paul

I was trying to just talk in general terms.

My idea of keeping the r's down was ...........
if you went to a low budget stroker ....................

Yes it would be b&bed
but
due to not having the stronger rods and such
you most likely would wanna make 6k the limit

Since you are gonna be using juice .................
I just don't know as I have had no experinece with the stuff
and
other than I know it puts more stress on things ..........
that is all I know.

You may not be able to do a low budget thing with juice like you can when talking just NA.

It goes without saying ... you will want to talk to your short block builder about these issues.

Look forward to what you find out so please share with us when you have the info rounded up.

Grady

 

[gcomfx.com]

I've read the big debate on the 331 vs 347. To be honest I was considering the 331 over the 347 for the sheer fact I know I'll spray the engine. Little bit more mass in the block.

Guess a girdle would be a good idea too. LOL