TO bearing questions?

[95WhiteVenom]

Well a lil squeeling when driving but enguage the clutch and she screams like a pig being slaughtered.
So here we go. If that could be anything else someone please let me know but i'm pretty sure that is the noise.
If so where is the best place to get them and are there different ones which is the best?
How expensive are they?
Also how hard is the install going to be or should I let someone else tackle it?

 

[HISSIN50]

TOB is a step or two shy of replacing a clutch disk and PP. Trans needs to come out.

Daggar and I have been in pursuit of the best TOB out there and cant quite get a consensus. Just the other day Andy (IIRC) and someone else were mentioning that they had good luck with a plastic TOB (might have been supplied with a SPEC clutch, as I cant think of who else used plastic TOB's). Otherwise, Ford is what I would use. Just properly grease it up before installing it.

Good luck.

 

[wytstang]

I went with the ford one after mine littereraly exploded from the research that I did the ford piece seemed to have the least problems with going south.

 

[95WhiteVenom]

well its squeeking with enguagement and after letting it out so i might as well go ahead and do the input shaft as well or so i have been told thanks BAD 95 COBRA

 

[HISSIN50]

The bearing retainer is a wear item which should be evaluated each time the trans is out. The TOB rides on it, so it being smooth is pretty critical.

Good luck.

 

[95WhiteVenom]

ok so as listed,...
TOB
input shaft
bearing retainer
wow this list is getting bigger by the minute 3 parts for a skretching noise. what about the pilot bearing too heck i dont even know what it does?

 

[HISSIN50]

I have no idea why the input shaft is listed - you gotta ask the other guy. To replace the input shaft will require disassembly of your trans. I have the feeling that something was lost in a translation, and that the input shaft bearing retainer might have been what was meant.

The pilot bearing is the bearing in the end of the crank. When the trans is installed, the very tip of the input shaft sits in this bearing. You would have to remove the clutch, etc to access it. So it is more work than doing a TOB (are you planning on just doing the TOB or replacing the entire clutch assembly)?

Good luck.

 

[95WhiteVenom]

well i talked to eades and it look like its best just to do the TOB. It still looks as though christmas time is gonna be calling for a new clutch.
Thanks hissin50 for the tech info.
I guess now is as good a time as any to call D&D and get my $19 TOB.

 

[WhiteDevil]

I used the TOB that came with my spec clutch it was metal not plastic, i forgot i heard people getting plastic ones with their specs, i dunno

 

[HISSIN50]

I seem to recall discussions that SPEC switched TOBs some time ago. I dont have specifics, just what folks were talking about on a thread a year or so ago.

Chris, honestly if you are anticipating needing a clutch by Christmas, I would just do it now. You will really be right there when doing the TOB anyhow. If contemplating that, things on my list of parts for such a task:

Clutch kit (disk, PP, TOB), pilot bearing (try not to use a pilot bushing), flywheel resurfacing, RMS if needed, bearing retainer, pivot ball (if needed), fork (if needed)... I know I am forgetting something, but the heat outside killed off half my brain cells (I am down to 5).

Good luck Chris.

 

[95WhiteVenom]

Ohh hissin it got worse man! Pedal feels nasty its not grabbing like it used to. I'm going nuts now. The whole thing is going. Its gonna have to make ti another week till i get some cash but now im in need for finding a good clutch. Looks like im going for another king cobra unless some dramatic turn of events finds a clutch that is better for around 169.

 

[HISSIN50]

Something I have done as a temp means (DO AT YOUR OWN RISK ): grab some white lithium grease, remove the clutch fork inspection plate, and spray the input shaft bearing retainer and TOB down a bit with the stuff. Do be very careful about not getting it on the friction surfaces of the clutch.

This will smooth out a chunked up retainer a little, and can help TOB squeal.

For the money, the KC is probably as good as one can do in that price range. I am not sure I would take a chance on the Spec stg 1 (same price roughly IIRC). I have a HD set-up and am not thrilled with it in traffic (it holds like crazy though - burn outs from 1200 RPM like nothin. No slippage).

Sorry to hear about the new noise. Best of luck with the thrash to fix it all up.

 

[95WhiteVenom]

ohh hissing another thing how much can i look at a install costing i dont have the time here lately and a buddy of mine is a ford tech and can do it in his spare time i just dont want him to take me to the cleaners cause i dont know how much it normally costs. He said what i thought was reasonable.

 

[HISSIN50]

Man, I dont know what a fair price is. I really dont. All the parts will be expensive enough. I would feel him out on it a little more if you can. You dont want to get eaten, but also want him to do future work, ya' know.

I am sure some of the guys will know better (or perhaps a thread in Talk would work). I know a few guys that read 5.0 Talk are dealer or smaller shop mechanics.

Good luck.

 

[Zero Signal]

All I can say is replace it quick! Mine did that and the TOB literally fell out of the bellhousing looking like laffy taffy all twisted up and crumbled.

 

[ARBOC]

I did my TOB and retainer last weekend. It does not require disassembly of the tranny. Just the retainer it self. I paid 65 bux canadian for it and 65 for the TOB. Your also going to require a seal and silicone. Take your time and dont get frusterated. If you need any info pm me and I'll try my best to help you.

ARBOC

 

[95WhiteVenom]

Well its gone even worse pretty sure the cable is stretched out of wack im calling spec tom. to talk to this dude and see what available. Then maybe the cable ill get from ford.

 

[HISSIN50]

MM sells an oem style SN95 cable for cheap IIRC.

Good luck.