stonegod85 said:so i got the AFM power pipe (used so it is scuffed and scratched and not very presentable) with the pro m MAF. with the accufab 75mm set up it should do well for my breathing. here's my delima...i can either re-chrome/polish the tube or i can wrap it with some heat extracting material to help the air temp. stay cooler as they enter the engine. should i go with the performance or the looks and if i should do the wrap does anyone have any recommendations?
stonegod85 said:so i got the AFM power pipe (used so it is scuffed and scratched and not very presentable) with the pro m MAF. with the accufab 75mm set up it should do well for my breathing. here's my delima...i can either re-chrome/polish the tube or i can wrap it with some heat extracting material to help the air temp. stay cooler as they enter the engine. should i go with the performance or the looks and if i should do the wrap does anyone have any recommendations?
It does both. The only reason it holds the heat inside the header, it because that that's where the heat starts from in the first place. It does just as well keeping the heat at bay from the other side of the fence. Not to mention that you're always going to be circulating cool air into the tube from the inside of the fender, to ensure that the charge doesn't get "stale".stonegod85 said:(correct me if i'm wrong but the header wrap material keeps heat in not out, which wouldn't be good for an intake pipe)
Not hot while you're constantly moving, but when you're sitting at the track or in traffic, with the heat radiating from the superheated ash vault and sucking nothing but hot stagnant air from the engine compartment.....I'm sure every effort you make to keep the air as cool as possible is going to help.deftsound said:i cant imagine that intake pipe getting very hot in the first place though, the whole point of it is that its a 'cold air' intake...
deftsound said:i cant imagine that intake pipe getting very hot in the first place though, the whole point of it is that its a 'cold air' intake...
Like I said , something a little scientific. check intake and engine temp, make a run without piping through fender or headlight out. make a run at the same temps with the headlight in or without the piping,( stock style) . I don't doubt that you ran faster, was it because they are not as good as you, the car itself, or the mod to the intake?mogs01gt said:well Im not sure if it is doing anything or not lol. At the track it probably does a better job than on the street since on the street the hood is always closed and the head light is in.
As you can see in that link of my engine bay, its an open filter sitting infront of the light. At the track, I remove the headlight and its a straight shot into the filter. PLus the cool downs after runs probably keeps my air intake temps down. I will check when I get home on my dyno sheet, it has my intake temps on it during the dyno run.
Nick
lmao that is too much work. Im too busy watching the fast cars and the chics with the tight asses go byforpit2000gt said:Like I said , something a little scientific. check intake and engine temp, make a run without piping through fender or headlight out. make a run at the same temps with the headlight in or without the piping,( stock style) . I don't doubt that you ran faster, was it because they are not as good as you, the car itself, or the mod to the intake?
But this isn't taking into account all of the other varriables! Driver error, track conditions, variations in temp, etc, etc. The only sure fire method to prove this is to simulate exacly the same circumstances and run them back to back on the engine dyno. Seems like a lot of work to see an additional 1-2hp to me?forpit2000gt said:Like I said , something a little scientific. check intake and engine temp, make a run without piping through fender or headlight out. make a run at the same temps with the headlight in or without the piping,( stock style) . I don't doubt that you ran faster, was it because they are not as good as you, the car itself, or the mod to the intake?
to bad if you use the "ram" type setup with a pipe behind the fog light, the dyno can never reenact the effect of accelerating through hot air or cold air.Gearbanger 101 said:But this isn't taking into account all of the other varriables! Driver error, track conditions, variations in temp, etc, etc. The only sure fire method to prove this is to simulate exacly the same circumstances and run them back to back on the engine dyno. Seems like a lot of work to see an additional 1-2hp to me?
how about a leave blowerGearbanger 101 said:You just need a really big fan in front of the car.
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