Too low?

mob · Feb 6, 2013

srtthis said:
very nice! glad those brackets worked for you! but you may want to drop the control arm down a notch to try and keep that lower arm level.

By level you mean parralel to the ground?

mob · Feb 6, 2013

90lxcoupe said:
Well, my LCA is pointed down towards the body, you want them level or with a slight angle up from the rear to the body. Right now i have a 28x10 on the car and it sits right where i want it to, but the geometry isnt right. To correct the geometry i would go to one of the lower holes in the racecraft bracket, but since i have stock springs, it will need some kind of spacer to make the difference up.

also, as far as ride quality goes, what spring rate are you running?

I am running 7"-250 in the rear, I needed the smaller spring to go lower, but now that I've got all this extra room I may put my 10" spring on it, I forget the rate I think its 175 but its a little softer.

I am not very good when it comes to just picturing this stuff, but if you lower the control arm, and the spring sits lower wouldnt the body just come down and sit lower as well relative to the spring? I mean the body sits on the spring so what else would be stopping it from sitting on the spring with the control arm lower

srtthis · Feb 6, 2013

yea.. parralel with the ground.

the angle of the control arms plays a huge factor in how the suspension works. so if 90LXcoupe lowers the arm on the bracket in the rear its going to lower the spring a smidge on the body since the spring is a fixed length lowering the body changes the angle of the upper arm.

90lxcoupe · Feb 6, 2013

mob said:
I am running 7"-250 in the rear, I needed the smaller spring to go lower, but now that I've got all this extra room I may put my 10" spring on it, I forget the rate I think its 175 but its a little softer.

I am not very good when it comes to just picturing this stuff, but if you lower the control arm, and the spring sits lower wouldnt the body just come down and sit lower as well relative to the spring? I mean the body sits on the spring so what else would be stopping it from sitting on the spring with the control arm lower

Those springs are wayy stiff. I think you will be much happier with the 175# one. Even a 150 or a 125 might be even better.

Yes, the body will be lower, causing the rear ride height to be lower, because you are creating a longer distance between the LCA spring perch and the body spring perch, but are still using the same length spring. With coilovers you can adjust for it easily.

mob · Feb 6, 2013

90lxcoupe said:
Those springs are wayy stiff. I think you will be much happier with the 175# one. Even a 150 or a 125 might be even better.

Yes, the body will be lower, causing the rear ride height to be lower, because you are creating a longer distance between the LCA spring perch and the body spring perch, but are still using the same length spring. With coilovers you can adjust for it easily.

Oh Ok I got it. Another option may be to run those adjustable top spring mounts, that let you adjust the spring height, and lets you use a coilover type spring in the stock location. With those you can buy all different heights and rates, from the QA1 website. Atleast if you go with UPR since they are knockoffs, I went to UPR and found the spring I needed and slid it over the UPR coilovers. But yea I think I am definitely going to switch springs, I think they are the 150's actually I need to double check.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-adjustable-rear-spring-mount.html

mob · Feb 6, 2013

All you guys get is a bad picture for now. The rear is not set in its final spot. I have a lot of messing around to do with where exactly I want the LCA, shock, and which spring I want to use, but this is temporary get it functional on the road for a show this saturday. I've also now got the issue of the front being higher than the rear...

Definitely going to need to be rolled! But barely any rubbing on my rock hard springs.

tca7291 · Feb 7, 2013

Wuzzup with your front bumper cover? Also I would jack the rear up a bit to keep the QP from cutting in to the tire until you get it rolled.

S&B · Feb 7, 2013

even rolled you might have an issue in turns I had to raise my car up because I once hit a small bump in a turn and the rolled lip cut big chunks out of my side wall. Make sure you have Upper adj control arms and get the axel centered best you can. if your bushings are worn replace them.

good luck buddy

mob · Feb 7, 2013

tca7291 said:
Wuzzup with your front bumper cover? Also I would jack the rear up a bit to keep the QP from cutting in to the tire until you get it rolled.

Yea that is when I first dropped it down i am running it a little higher now until I get it rolled which should be tomorrow. I am putting a Saleen front end on it so I am waiting for it to get painted.

S&B said:
even rolled you might have an issue in turns I had to raise my car up because I once hit a small bump in a turn and the rolled lip cut big chunks out of my side wall. Make sure you have Upper adj control arms and get the axel centered best you can. if your bushings are worn replace them.

good luck buddy

Thanks for the advice man. I've got both adjustable upper and lowers so I am going to mess around with the angle, I have notice my shocks are kind of at an angle, not straight up. What should I be trying to go for, shocks vertical, and LCA horizontal to the ground?

S&B · Feb 7, 2013

I have no clue what angle the shocks should be at. I would make sure your pinion angle is correct and axel centered. since the LCA is fixed length the shock angle should not be that effected. I could be totally wrong im just guessing

90lxcoupe · Feb 7, 2013

The shock angle should never change, unless when you installed those brackets the werent parallel to the pinion face. Like S&B said, you need to set the pinion angle, and square the rear. The lowers should be level, or angled slightly up towards the body, but honestly, if you arent drag racing with this setup, the LCA angle wont matter much. The shock is in a fixed location, so if the pinion angle is changed, the angle of the shock will stay the same because the rear end pivots on the bottom of the shock.

mob · Feb 7, 2013

The bracket pushes the bottom of the shock out a little from vertical, here is a little rough sketch on paint of what I'm talking about, notice the angle of the shock.

srtthis · Feb 7, 2013

you sure its the bracket and not the angle of your upper control arm or the length of your lower control arm?

mob · Feb 7, 2013

Well I am sure if I adjust the lower control arm it will bring it in a little but my lower control arm is already adjusted pretty much as short as it'll go, I have like 2 or 3 threads left to adjust. The upper has lots of adjustment but I think that would just push it out further or make the angle worse right? I wonder if putting the control on a lower hole will help fix the angle.

EDIT: I think thats what I need to do, put the LCA on the lowest hole.

srtthis · Feb 7, 2013

what is your pinion angle currently? the bolt holes in the new brakets seem to be inline with the stock location which wouldnt push axle back any.

your going into uncharted waters here going this low and trying to keep things right. so you may have some aches to work though

mob · Feb 7, 2013

I'm not sure what the pinion angle is at right now. I have no way to measure it. I would like to get it as close as possible to how it should be but if its not perfect I am ok, what I dont want is stress on certain areas that may cause something to break.

90lxcoupe · Feb 7, 2013

if thats the way the rear is now, you will run the risk of the rear rotating back and damaging the shocks. I had this happen in the past when i was still running rubber bushings in the rear housing and the axle rotated back and dented and bent my strange shocks.

mob · Feb 7, 2013

you mean rotating forward like when the shock compresses? I have the stock bushings in the axle housing but all the other bushings are solid.

90lxcoupe · Feb 7, 2013

mob said:
you mean rotating forward like when the shock compresses? I have the stock bushings in the axle housing but all the other bushings are solid.

No, the axle rotates rearward when torque is applied, thats why the pinion angle is -1.5-2° so when you are going down the track, it levels itself out. Now when you factor squishy bushings in, the axle will move even more.

85_SS_302_Coupe · Feb 7, 2013

I like it, but it's just not practical IMO. I don't want to compromise any aspect of drivability for another inch lower in ride height. Mine would be lower right now if my headers wouldn't get stuck on every speed bump I pass (and it was lower once, and this actually did happen...it was a nightmare).

Too low?

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

90lxcoupe

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

tca7291

I can see your wieners.

S&B

I hate my CT. :(

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

S&B

I hate my CT. :(

90lxcoupe

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

90lxcoupe

mob

the guy who hits on his mom

90lxcoupe

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

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