Too much lift / duration?

shootme5150

New Member
Jul 12, 2003
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Denver
So I'm rethinking the stroker thing, I'm tossed up between stroke and boost, so I'm going to wait until next year to rebuild the bottom end (pay off some debt in the mean time as well). I've already got the TFS ported heads and I'm looking at either a TFS-R or RPM intake. With a stock bottom end, will I have clearance issues if I go with the comp cams 296 cam and 1.6 RRs? Or should I just stick with the 280?

Thanks
 
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I was in the same delma as you for a very long time until a 2 nights ago. Ive seen a lot of turbo stangs, supercharger stangs, nitrous stangs, but never saw a super worked all motor stroker stang.....until 2 nights ago. It was a 347 stroker stang. It looked like a rolling pile of crap, but the engine was showroom condition when he poped the hood. The thing had a 3500rpm cam in it, carbed. He said he drives it every day, road trips, drive thru at wendys, etc.

Man nothing is as badass as that car was. The cam was so sick, he was playing around at a stop light, making the car jump. It would bottom out the right rear shock when he would hit the gas. No forced induction does that, only all motor. He said he ran a 10.8 on all motor and BFG's, fully built rear.

Im meeting him again on wednesday, he said hell take me for a ride, ill have video.
 
The ONLY way to tell if P-V clearance issues exist are to measure with clay.

Boost VS cubic inches.

Boost can be more streetable way to make power (smother idle, better economy) however it will cost a bit to install and take time and test equipment to tune.

A stroked motor (302) can be had at a reasonable price and can make great power. A good heads/cam/intake are necessary. Desired power level will dictate how radical the h/c/i. Simple traditional techniques can be made to tune the engine.

The other point is when you do a stroker properly, you have a brand new bottom end to play with. The blown stock motor still has stock, aged components.
 
Aliate X said:
The thing had a 3500rpm cam in it, carbed. He said he drives it every day, road trips, drive thru at wendys, etc.

Man nothing is as badass as that car was. The cam was so sick, he was playing around at a stop light, making the car jump. It would bottom out the right rear shock when he would hit the gas. No forced induction does that, only all motor. He said he ran a 10.8 on all motor and BFG's, fully built rear.

Just an FYI, there is not really such a term as a 3500rpm cam. The powerband can come in at 3500, the converter can stall to 3500. Cams are rated by lift and duration. Primarily by duration, hence a 268 cam, etc.
 
hllon4whls said:
The ONLY way to tell if P-V clearance issues exist are to measure with clay.

I was hoping someone would be able to give me an idea, though... I'm sure someone has tried a similar cam with stock (unnotched, I assume) pistons. Of course, I would test it to ensure I wasn't hitting, but I'd like to know ballpark if it's even possible before I spend the money. 5-10 thou could be made up for with a thicker head gasket... 100 thou probably can't...
 
280 advertised will be fine and pull a lot of power under boost.. and the p/v will be cool also!! When you go to the bigger valve size.. 1.94 or 2.02.. NOW there might be a consern!! the bigger valve is "Outside " the stock valve notch!! check as suggested!! there are boosted cars making 450 + at the rear with just ported GT40s!! FYI!!

Just me........................

Thumper
 
shootme5150 said:
hmmm... the heads have 2.02 / 1.60 valves. Does this mean no heads until I swap the pistons?
In my own case I run edelbrock heads 2.02/1.6 with just an E-cam w/1.7 rockers 220/220 .530ish, this is with after market pistons with a 1.94 valve relief. The combo still had interference problems. My 2 cents is to wait till you are ready to rebuild useing proper pistons etc....on the other hand put it together and measure v/p clearence you may get lucky :shrug: , but I think the 2.02 valve is going to be a problem with stock pistons.