Took her for a spin for the first time in 4 years! What a BEAST!

[68EFIvert]

I guess there is a little good to come out of this whole tire rubbing situation. I know my subframe connectors from Global West work well. There wasn't any body flex so the majority of the weight of the car was on that one wheel. That is one part of the car that works like planned. It is just a tough way to learn it though.

I am just going to make a list of the little things and start checking them off. There are a couple shows I want to make it to by the end of July. That gives me 4 weeks to "get er dun". Well, at least driveable.

 

[68EFIvert]

I got the tire problem resolved so I took the car for a spin last night. I took my dad for a ride and showed to him how it was easy to steer the car with the rear wheels. A gentle nudge of the gas pedal in 2nd had the same effect as the first ride in the car. This time I was going around a bend in the road and felt the rear coming around a little. Pretty cool feeling.

During the test of traction experience I looked in the rear view mirror and noticed a steady stream of smoke coming from the car. I pull up to a stop light and it wont stay running. I limp it home and every time I shift it dies. The smoke is not nearly as bad when cruising but still there.

I wasn't too concerned because while it was running it ran well. When I pulled it into the garage I noticed oil on my headers and decided to wait a couple hours and then pull the intake off. I found out that I did not use enough silicon on the front and rear of the intake manifold. Oil was leaking like crazy and caused a huge vacuum leak. In the process of pullin the intake off I cracked my dizzy so I will have to go get a new case today.

I guess this is a good thing becasue the engine compartment looks like crap from the body shop dust. This will give me some time to clean it all up before putting it back together tonight. I am excited to see what she runs like when it is sealed up properly and there isn't a vacuum leak. I still need to get some pictures on here but every time I think I will some problem comes up. I hope to have some soon.

 

[68EFIvert]

Here are a couple pictures of the car. I plan on redoing the interior quarter panels and also have more detail work to do in the engine compartment. It still have one more trip to the body shop to fix a wheel well problem and final buffing.

 

[joedokes28]

That's a beautiful car. I can only hope that mine will look that nice one day.

 

[70vert]

68efi, what headers did you use with your Steeroids rack? I'm going the 351w stroker route since I have a bigger, heavier, later model year and I know header selection can be iffy with Steeroids. Hopefully they make a 351w version of your headers . . .

 

[68EFIvert]

I am using Headman Long tubes IIRC pn 88300. I have plenty of room with them but they are for 289/302's. I would assume the 351 version would follow the same path but change a little at the engine mounting location. I don't know though.

 

[70vert]

Big piece of the puzzle solved, thanks!

THANKS! I just spent the last 15 minutes on stangnet and vintage-mustang looking up all your posts - heh, should have looked first, asked the question after - but I didn't see anything on the headers you were using. If I had to make a guess from Steeroids' recommendations and everything I've read, I would have guessed 88300. The only thing that threw me on these was that they don't list them for "manual trans floor" but I assume that is with the Z-bar, and I am using a cable, (from Modern Driveline) as I noticed you were at some point. Looks like that means I am in the clear!

Big piece of my personal puzzle solved! Now I can order the 408 once my rear is done. I am still waiting on EvM to see if they can really pull off an over-the-axle or even an under-the-axle exhaust kit, or I'll just do something like yours. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!

 

[68EFIvert]

I originally started out with a cable clutch system as well. I was using Mustang steve but had all kinds of clearance problems with the cable, headers and steering shaft. I eventually went with a JMC hydraulic kit to get the clearance I needed. I don't know if you will be able to mount the cable a different path with a MD kit but be prepared for an additional expense. I guess it is kind of like finding out your brakes don't work right after you install a custom rear suspension.

 

[70vert]

Too true.

heh, good one. It reminds me of one of the forum members' signatures, something along the lines of having to replace your entire wheel and brake setup for want of a $350 spindle, and that making perfect sense to the rest of the users on the forum.

Looks like a JMC will probably be in my future as well, thanks for the heads up . . . so much for saving money with the cable!