Tool Review Time
- Thread starter NIKwoaC
- Start date
Oh it's even messier than that.
Who owns what and who makes what isn't even the same.
For example, Craftsman is now owned by Stanley Black and Decker, but is still licensed to what's left of Sears, who uses manufacturers from Apex, to Lisle, to Lang, to Danaher, and even SBD.
SnapOn, Matco, and Mac all sell rebranded tools from 3rd party manufacturers, with all three aometimes selling the same exact tool under their individual names.
Globalization makes keeping track of it all a nightmare, and they all buy and sell brands often enough that the vid you posted is already out of date.
Then there's your zombie brands. Brands that went out of business either on their own or under other ownership, but were revived by a new owner (DeWalt is one of these).
Last but not least, you've got your brands that have all but died, but keep making tools for others, like Western Forge.
In a further exploration of what @Noobz347 touched on....
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249851&highlight=tool+truck+equivalent
"ihateminimumwage" over at The Garage Journal Board compiled an amazing list of direct cross-overs between the high-dollar tool truck brands and less-expensive, but still high quality brands. My favorites from the list is the SnapOn section, because it shows you just which companies SnapOn has snapped up over the years (including Williams and Bahco, both really good tool brands); and the Matco section, which shows you just who made what, and whether or not Craftsman has the same tool from the same supplier for far less money.
Knowledge is power, knowing is half the battle, a penny saved is a penny earned and any of another dozen cliches can be applied to this amazing list. It's worth a read if you're just interested in knowing what's what, and worth printing out if you're seriously shopping for tools.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249851&highlight=tool+truck+equivalent
"ihateminimumwage" over at The Garage Journal Board compiled an amazing list of direct cross-overs between the high-dollar tool truck brands and less-expensive, but still high quality brands. My favorites from the list is the SnapOn section, because it shows you just which companies SnapOn has snapped up over the years (including Williams and Bahco, both really good tool brands); and the Matco section, which shows you just who made what, and whether or not Craftsman has the same tool from the same supplier for far less money.
Knowledge is power, knowing is half the battle, a penny saved is a penny earned and any of another dozen cliches can be applied to this amazing list. It's worth a read if you're just interested in knowing what's what, and worth printing out if you're seriously shopping for tools.
Battery chargers.
I have had 5 different chargers, between the ones I've had and passed off to family that needed them. Years ago, I upped for a more than $100 Automatic smart battery charger:
Of all of the chargers I've ever had, this one has been the worst. 90+% of the time, within 20 mins it informs me: "Bad Bat" on the display and refuses to attempt a charge. I'm like, "No
! Why do you think I bought you, you dumb piece of !@# !#$% @#$% 13$#$%!@#$%!!!" It sucks to leave it on a battery for a few hours or overnight just to walk out and realize that it didn't make it more than a few minutes before it gave up, and you still have a dead, completely salvageable battery. Therefore, I'm going to avoid Outdoorsman, NAPA, and most unvouched-for Automatic chargers in the future.
I tried to save a battery, last night, and before I hooked it up, I said if this thing says it's bad and then I save it, I'm done with this damn thing." Sure enough, that's exactly what happened. So, I'm tossing it. Actually, a mechanic buddy of mine asked if I'd give it to him. I will, but I think he's gonna regret it, lol. I'm not sure that POS has ever saved a single battery that was in trouble. I'm pretty sure the best it can do is help start a battery that's a little weak with its 125A starting charge, and top off a slightly weak battery in the perhaps 10.5V+ range.
So, I usually just slap on my old 1980's era 10A manual charger, and the battery lasts another couple years. It always works... Never complains... Just goes.
So, I've decided I don't want anything to do with lazy a$$ chargers that think they're smarter than me and refuse to do their job. I ordered one of these, which is similar to one that I gave to my mother years ago and has never failed her:
I'm purchasing it from here: http://www.explosivepowersports.com...8tGEtBxxg38-pY6PUhFgVtjs8vhA8I54aAv4YEALw_wcB
Also, I highly recommend one of these for recovery and long term storage:
Amazon product ASIN B00GODGN9EView: https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-959-CHARGE-Automatic-Charger/dp/B00GODGN9E/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_4/146-6758349-7093816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GODGN9E&pd_rd_r=588bd9f3-8424-11e9-89d0-b7902472ba38&pd_rd_w=Lt5q9&pd_rd_wg=9H9ti&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ&psc=1&refRID=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ
Mine isn't exactly the same, but I think it's an older model of this charger. Only problem with this one is it won't charge if the battery is completely dead and it doesn't detect a current. You can just run another battery in parallel and charge both, or you can use a manual charger for 15-20 mins, let the surface charge wear off, and then hook this unit up. It has actually save batteries that trickle chargers did not.
I think between this and the Schumacher unit, I'll never have need of another 12v charger.
I have had 5 different chargers, between the ones I've had and passed off to family that needed them. Years ago, I upped for a more than $100 Automatic smart battery charger:
Of all of the chargers I've ever had, this one has been the worst. 90+% of the time, within 20 mins it informs me: "Bad Bat" on the display and refuses to attempt a charge. I'm like, "No
! Why do you think I bought you, you dumb piece of !@# !#$% @#$% 13$#$%!@#$%!!!" It sucks to leave it on a battery for a few hours or overnight just to walk out and realize that it didn't make it more than a few minutes before it gave up, and you still have a dead, completely salvageable battery. Therefore, I'm going to avoid Outdoorsman, NAPA, and most unvouched-for Automatic chargers in the future.I tried to save a battery, last night, and before I hooked it up, I said if this thing says it's bad and then I save it, I'm done with this damn thing." Sure enough, that's exactly what happened. So, I'm tossing it. Actually, a mechanic buddy of mine asked if I'd give it to him. I will, but I think he's gonna regret it, lol. I'm not sure that POS has ever saved a single battery that was in trouble. I'm pretty sure the best it can do is help start a battery that's a little weak with its 125A starting charge, and top off a slightly weak battery in the perhaps 10.5V+ range.
So, I usually just slap on my old 1980's era 10A manual charger, and the battery lasts another couple years. It always works... Never complains... Just goes.
So, I've decided I don't want anything to do with lazy a$$ chargers that think they're smarter than me and refuse to do their job. I ordered one of these, which is similar to one that I gave to my mother years ago and has never failed her:
I'm purchasing it from here: http://www.explosivepowersports.com...8tGEtBxxg38-pY6PUhFgVtjs8vhA8I54aAv4YEALw_wcB
Also, I highly recommend one of these for recovery and long term storage:
Amazon product ASIN B00GODGN9EView: https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-959-CHARGE-Automatic-Charger/dp/B00GODGN9E/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_4/146-6758349-7093816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GODGN9E&pd_rd_r=588bd9f3-8424-11e9-89d0-b7902472ba38&pd_rd_w=Lt5q9&pd_rd_wg=9H9ti&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ&psc=1&refRID=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ
Mine isn't exactly the same, but I think it's an older model of this charger. Only problem with this one is it won't charge if the battery is completely dead and it doesn't detect a current. You can just run another battery in parallel and charge both, or you can use a manual charger for 15-20 mins, let the surface charge wear off, and then hook this unit up. It has actually save batteries that trickle chargers did not.
I think between this and the Schumacher unit, I'll never have need of another 12v charger.
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I've had similar experiences with every "automatic" charger besides the ones I've used/owned from Midtronics, Associated, and Battery Tender. All of those will actually charge a battery that can be saved, but of those three manufacturers, only Battery Tender doesn't charge a fortune.Battery chargers.
I have had 5 different chargers, between the ones I've had and passed off to family that needed them. Years ago, I upped for a more than $100 Automatic smart battery charger:
Of all of the chargers I've ever had, this one has been the worst. 90+% of the time, within 20 mins it informs me: "Bad Bat" on the display and refuses to attempt a charge. I'm like, "No
I tried to save a battery, last night, and before I hooked it up, I said if this thing says it's bad and then I save it, I'm done with this damn thing." Sure enough, that's exactly what happened. So, I'm tossing it. Actually, a mechanic buddy of mine asked if I'd give it to him. I will, but I think he's gonna regret it, lol. I'm not sure that POS has ever saved a single battery that was in trouble. I'm pretty sure the best it can do is help start a battery that's a little weak with its 125A starting charge, and top off a slightly weak battery in the perhaps 10.5V+ range.
So, I usually just slap on my old 1980's era 10A manual charger, and the battery lasts another couple years. It always works... Never complains... Just goes.
So, I've decided I don't want anything to do with lazy a$$ chargers that think they're smarter than me and refuse to do their job. I ordered one of these, which is similar to one that I gave to my mother years ago and has never failed her:
I'm purchasing it from here: http://www.explosivepowersports.com...8tGEtBxxg38-pY6PUhFgVtjs8vhA8I54aAv4YEALw_wcB
Also, I highly recommend one of these for recovery and long term storage:
Amazon product ASIN B00GODGN9EView: https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-959-CHARGE-Automatic-Charger/dp/B00GODGN9E/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_4/146-6758349-7093816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GODGN9E&pd_rd_r=588bd9f3-8424-11e9-89d0-b7902472ba38&pd_rd_w=Lt5q9&pd_rd_wg=9H9ti&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ&psc=1&refRID=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ
Mine isn't exactly the same, but I think it's an older model of this charger. Only problem with this one is it won't charge if the battery is completely dead and it doesn't detect a current. You can just run another battery in parallel and charge both, or you can use a manual charger for 15-20 mins, let the surface charge wear off, and then hook this unit up. It has actually save batteries that trickle chargers did not.
I think between this and the Schumacher unit, I'll never have need of another 12v charger.
I've had fun with my DC clamp meter seeing how many amps certain things drew. The lights surprised me. Just changing from incandescent to LED taillights dropped maybe 15 amps of current draw. I can sit at a red light with my foot on the brake and lights on and barely get a dip now.
Also found out my particular e fan drew much less than I commonly see on the internet.
Also found out my particular e fan drew much less than I commonly see on the internet.
LED Lights part number? Need any extra crap besides bulbs for compatibility? Seems like LED lights on the truck requires other stuff.
I'm expecting the twin spal fans' draw to be very ugly.
I'm expecting the twin spal fans' draw to be very ugly.
Battery chargers.
I have had 5 different chargers, between the ones I've had and passed off to family that needed them. Years ago, I upped for a more than $100 Automatic smart battery charger:
Of all of the chargers I've ever had, this one has been the worst. 90+% of the time, within 20 mins it informs me: "Bad Bat" on the display and refuses to attempt a charge. I'm like, "No
I tried to save a battery, last night, and before I hooked it up, I said if this thing says it's bad and then I save it, I'm done with this damn thing." Sure enough, that's exactly what happened. So, I'm tossing it. Actually, a mechanic buddy of mine asked if I'd give it to him. I will, but I think he's gonna regret it, lol. I'm not sure that POS has ever saved a single battery that was in trouble. I'm pretty sure the best it can do is help start a battery that's a little weak with its 125A starting charge, and top off a slightly weak battery in the perhaps 10.5V+ range.
So, I usually just slap on my old 1980's era 10A manual charger, and the battery lasts another couple years. It always works... Never complains... Just goes.
So, I've decided I don't want anything to do with lazy a$$ chargers that think they're smarter than me and refuse to do their job. I ordered one of these, which is similar to one that I gave to my mother years ago and has never failed her:
I'm purchasing it from here: http://www.explosivepowersports.com...8tGEtBxxg38-pY6PUhFgVtjs8vhA8I54aAv4YEALw_wcB
Also, I highly recommend one of these for recovery and long term storage:
Amazon product ASIN B00GODGN9EView: https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-959-CHARGE-Automatic-Charger/dp/B00GODGN9E/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_4/146-6758349-7093816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GODGN9E&pd_rd_r=588bd9f3-8424-11e9-89d0-b7902472ba38&pd_rd_w=Lt5q9&pd_rd_wg=9H9ti&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ&psc=1&refRID=3SK13W04114SN4D751JZ
Mine isn't exactly the same, but I think it's an older model of this charger. Only problem with this one is it won't charge if the battery is completely dead and it doesn't detect a current. You can just run another battery in parallel and charge both, or you can use a manual charger for 15-20 mins, let the surface charge wear off, and then hook this unit up. It has actually save batteries that trickle chargers did not.
I think between this and the Schumacher unit, I'll never have need of another 12v charger.
That Schumer you posted is the exact same charger that I have only it has SEARS CRAFTSMAN labeling on it. It is 30 years old this year. I used it yesterday. I should replace the cord on it. The insulation is cut where it feeds through the grommet into the casing. No other issues. I hope your new one isn't made in China.
I expect a full review!
I think I might buy that 75 amp version is the one you get looks good.
Gotta dig to find what I used. Only did the brake lights. Haven't gotten to turn signals yet but you'll need a solid state flasher
My current selection for a multimeter if I were to buy one today:
Amazon product ASIN B003KI47I0View: https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-15XP-B-Multimeter-Non-Contact-Indicator/dp/B003KI47I0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Amprobe+15XP-B&qid=1559699403&s=hi&sr=1-1-catcorr
Amazon product ASIN B003KI47I0View: https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-15XP-B-Multimeter-Non-Contact-Indicator/dp/B003KI47I0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Amprobe+15XP-B&qid=1559699403&s=hi&sr=1-1-catcorr
Just put my own A/C kit together:
Digital scale:https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-scale-95364.html
Leak detector:
www.harborfreight.com
Vacuum pump:
www.harborfreight.com
www.harborfreight.com
Can Tap: Amazon product ASIN B07D18WVFDView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D18WVFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Digital scale:https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-scale-95364.html
Leak detector:
Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detector
Amazing deals on this Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detector at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Vacuum pump:
3 CFM Two Stage Vacuum Pump
Amazing deals on this 3Cfm 2-Stage Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
A/C R134A Manifold Gauge Set
Amazing deals on this A/C R134A Manifold Gauge Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Can Tap: Amazon product ASIN B07D18WVFDView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D18WVFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Black light: Amazon product ASIN B008133KB4View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008133KB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Valve core remover: Amazon product ASIN B000KITSMIView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KITSMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nothing to report, yet. But I'm planning to take care of "Snake Pit" with it, and will report back.
Valve core remover: Amazon product ASIN B000KITSMIView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KITSMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nothing to report, yet. But I'm planning to take care of "Snake Pit" with it, and will report back.
Legally, you still need a way to recover your existing refrigerant. The EPA has gotten incredibly strict on that, yet venting R134a or R251 from "electronics duster" cans to do the job of compressed air is perfectly legal.
I recently did similar. Here is what I got
Amazon product ASIN B016APRO6QView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016APRO6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon product ASIN B016APRO6QView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016APRO6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Let's talk about Sears, Eddie Lampert's favorite source of blood to suck on when he's not hanging upside down from his ceiling.
When the Sears store across the highway from my job in Austin had it's going out of business sale, I picked up a few things.
I bought that ratcheting-open-end wrench set for less than half the online price, and that's a very good thing. I've never owned a more useless set of wrenches in my life.
Sure, they're open-end, if you hold them at a specific angle to get them over the bolt, nut, flare nut, or stud you're trying to turn. Sure, they ratchet, if you can keep enough pressure on the ratcheting mechanism in the wrench head at the awkward angle you'll have to hold them at. Oh and they definitely grip the fastener in question, if you keep a lot of direct pressure on them.
I've found one single use for these. They're fantastic for removing all of the lines when doing brake master cylinders and ABS modules on late-model Fords... AFTER you've broken them loose with a different wrench, because you aren't breaking a damned thing loose with these!
These, on the other hand, are amazing. Let me re-phrase that... these are the best damned wheel lock removal sockets I've owned.
I've owned three sets of these, I keep a set at the house for when a family member inevitably loses a wheel lock key or rounds off a lugnut trying to change their own tire before calling me, and I've had two sets at work. I still have two sets at work, but one socket in my older set recently split after 5 years of being hammered onto wheel locks with a sledge or deadblow and then being subjected to the torque of a Nitrocat impact wrench. I wish I still had a Sears nearby to warranty that set at, because, they work better than the sets I've owned/tried from Matco, Sunex, NAPA, and SnapOn. Luckily, I was able to pick up a backup set for $25 as that store in Austin closed down.
www.pilotautomotive.com
I also picked this up on clearance, which is probably a good thing, because it was completely worthless. Even fresh off the charger with a full-charged battery, this thing would struggle to jump start a riding lawnmower, much less even the smallest of cars. In fact, it frequently refused to even try to jump-start cars, simply going into "protection" mode and blinking warning lights instead of actually doing anything the second the key was turned to "on". I tried just using it as a portable battery pack for running my phone and bluetooth speaker with it's USB port, but the battery swelled and the case cracked, so it was recycled. It was replaced by one of these, sourced from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B015TKUPICView: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrYi40aDI4wIVgobACh2yrgghEAAYASAAEgJpMvD_BwE&hvadid=177837435119&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1026831&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15446270517107347850&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-18146978207&hydadcr=7479_9586275&keywords=noco+genius&qid=1563789180&s=gateway&sr=8-3
This is one bad mother. Now, they do mean it when they say "up to 6.0L gasoline/3.0L diesel", it's not starting a 6.2L GM SUV with a completely dead battery on it's own, and it's not starting any diesel other than the Jeep/Ram Ecodiesel, but everything else? It's got your back, offering 4-5 jumps per charge at that. There are three of us in the shop using these, and I see them in the hands of other professionals like the guys on the Koon Trucking channel on Youtube, and they just don't quit.
When the Sears store across the highway from my job in Austin had it's going out of business sale, I picked up a few things.
I bought that ratcheting-open-end wrench set for less than half the online price, and that's a very good thing. I've never owned a more useless set of wrenches in my life.
Sure, they're open-end, if you hold them at a specific angle to get them over the bolt, nut, flare nut, or stud you're trying to turn. Sure, they ratchet, if you can keep enough pressure on the ratcheting mechanism in the wrench head at the awkward angle you'll have to hold them at. Oh and they definitely grip the fastener in question, if you keep a lot of direct pressure on them.
I've found one single use for these. They're fantastic for removing all of the lines when doing brake master cylinders and ABS modules on late-model Fords... AFTER you've broken them loose with a different wrench, because you aren't breaking a damned thing loose with these!
These, on the other hand, are amazing. Let me re-phrase that... these are the best damned wheel lock removal sockets I've owned.
I've owned three sets of these, I keep a set at the house for when a family member inevitably loses a wheel lock key or rounds off a lugnut trying to change their own tire before calling me, and I've had two sets at work. I still have two sets at work, but one socket in my older set recently split after 5 years of being hammered onto wheel locks with a sledge or deadblow and then being subjected to the torque of a Nitrocat impact wrench. I wish I still had a Sears nearby to warranty that set at, because, they work better than the sets I've owned/tried from Matco, Sunex, NAPA, and SnapOn. Luckily, I was able to pick up a backup set for $25 as that store in Austin closed down.
Pilot Automotive Portable & Rechargeable 12V Power Jump Starter / Charger
I also picked this up on clearance, which is probably a good thing, because it was completely worthless. Even fresh off the charger with a full-charged battery, this thing would struggle to jump start a riding lawnmower, much less even the smallest of cars. In fact, it frequently refused to even try to jump-start cars, simply going into "protection" mode and blinking warning lights instead of actually doing anything the second the key was turned to "on". I tried just using it as a portable battery pack for running my phone and bluetooth speaker with it's USB port, but the battery swelled and the case cracked, so it was recycled. It was replaced by one of these, sourced from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B015TKUPICView: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrYi40aDI4wIVgobACh2yrgghEAAYASAAEgJpMvD_BwE&hvadid=177837435119&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1026831&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15446270517107347850&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-18146978207&hydadcr=7479_9586275&keywords=noco+genius&qid=1563789180&s=gateway&sr=8-3
This is one bad mother. Now, they do mean it when they say "up to 6.0L gasoline/3.0L diesel", it's not starting a 6.2L GM SUV with a completely dead battery on it's own, and it's not starting any diesel other than the Jeep/Ram Ecodiesel, but everything else? It's got your back, offering 4-5 jumps per charge at that. There are three of us in the shop using these, and I see them in the hands of other professionals like the guys on the Koon Trucking channel on Youtube, and they just don't quit.
Nice reviews. I bought a couple of wheel lug removal things I wasn't happy with. I'm ordering those on your recommendation. That battery starter is badass. You can go up to the 4000 amp version. I might just do that, one day. But, at $270, it'll have to go on my wish list for now. The reviews on that thing suggest that it'll jump 13L navistar diesel rigs... Incredible!
You won't regret that Craftsman wheel lock set. Even after I wore the teeth out of the spiral side of one of them, it kept working, just tap it on with a hammer, spin it with the impact to get it hot, smack it once more with the hammer, and remove the lock. Even "worn out" it was better than the Matco version was new!
Adapters, specifically, 3/8 to 1/4 adapters.
There were three of these floating around between my box and cart at work, a Duralast impact, a SnapOn impact, and a cheap Taiwan-made non-branded chrome. As you can see in the picture, the cheap chrome one was the last soldier standing when doing a 4-wheel brake job using the on-car brake lathe at work.
No idea what factory in Taiwan made it, what metal they used, or even where I bought it, but it outlived both a "pro-sumer" grade and professional grade tool that night. I've since had the other two replaced under warranty, but damn.
Take that for what it's worth.
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