Top K-Member and A-Arm and Coil Conv. shootout

[Stalone93GT]

i want to change my suspension in my 89 but have come across a problem. I dont know what k member and a-arm/coilover setup i should go with.

All the ad's in MM and FF claim that their products are the lightest and are the best but i want to know which system to go with. Here is a list of People that sell aftermarket K members and A-arm/coilover conv. kits.

UPR pro Series-$649.95 (chrome moly a-arms, k-member and coilover kit w/springs)

Steeda-$259.00 ( just for the K-member) $259.00( for the a-arms w/bushings), coil overs-$179.95

Maximum Motor sports- $649 for (k-member and they claim 3/4in wheelbase extended and allows engine 1 inch setback) their A-arms cost $349.00 w/urathane bushing and $449.00 w/delrin bushings. And their coilover kit goes for$259.00

Laurel mountain-$739.00 for K-member,Tubular A-arms and coilover kit

WildRideRaceCars.com sell
-QA1 GT Pro Active System-$1195.95 for K-member, A-arms, coilover and CCplates.

D and D Motorsports-$349.00 for K-member, Tubular A arms for $239.00 and coilover w/ springs $219.00

Kenny Brown-$1799 Kmember, Aarms, CC plates. coilover conv kit and springs. ( they claim it drops 40 lbs and gives you 1inch in the wheel base).

The only other company I know about that carries this kind of setup is Griggs. For those of you out there who have done the mods please give me your expert advise on what to do. Thank you for your time
Roger

 

[Stalone93GT]

I know this is a lot of info but any input would help

 

[TIMMY2734]

I know when im doing the front end, my money is going to PA Racing. Their entire front end kit for mild steel is about 650, about 200 cheaper than Anthony Jones. Both make killer products and AJ also has great customer servise and stands behind his product 100%.

I was going to order a D&D, but ive heard it goes both ways. Soem guys bolt up perfectly and some require the BFH and grinding and some other stuff i could do without.

 

[kslushy]

Something to think about is that only the MM and Griggs ones change the geometry of the front suspension, all the others keep the stock (and compartively junk) geometry.

 

[Matt90GT]

Something to think about is that only the MM and Griggs ones change the geometry of the front suspension, all the others keep the stock (and compartively junk) geometry.

HAL does also. About 3/4" gain to the wheelbase.

So does the D&D on a 87-93 V8 , but negatively!!!! You lose about 1-2" of front track.

 

[kslushy]

HAL does also. About 3/4" gain to the wheelbase.

So does the D&D on a 87-93 V8 , but negatively!!!! You lose about 1-2" of front track.

I didn't know that, good info! I was thinking along the lines of ackermann and camber curve gain. How are the HAL's?

 

[90mustangGT]

If I were to get one of those kits, I would want one that changes the geometry a little. By moving the engine back and the wheels forward, it would put more weight on the rear wheels which is something the Mustang definatly needs.

 

[Stalone93GT]

what are the advantages of changing the suspension geometry? And which one should i go with?

 

[Stalone93GT]

And who is HAL?

 

[Stalone93GT]

Who is PA racing and what are the products that they carry? Please fill me in
Roger

 

[jerry beach]

I installed MM front coilovers and CC plates yesterday. I didnt get the K-member or the A-arms because of the cost. Also if you move the front wheels forward, such as with the griggs kit, you will have to heavily modify the fenders. The MM stuff was real easy to install and came with excellent directions. You can go to the website and look at the installation instructions before you buy it so you know what you are getting into. I didnt have to modify anything on my car, it just went right in and cleared everything. Prolly took about 5 hrs total for me, and I have never done much suspension work. My car drives a little nicer, but I cant tell much of a difference. Be advised, most any coilover setup is going to void your warranty on the struts, because you have to modify the strut a little.

 

[89roadster]

I installed MM front coilovers and CC plates yesterday.
...
My car drives a little nicer, but I cant tell much of a difference.

I'm actually a little surprized by this - I installed CC plates years ago and there was a huge difference in drivability - especially in town where there's a lot of turning.

 

[jerry beach]

I'm actually a little surprized by this - I installed CC plates years ago and there was a huge difference in drivability - especially in town where there's a lot of turning.

I havent driven it much, but today I set the struts to full soft and it rides much nicer. Thats what I was looking for. The steering wheel seems easier to turn also. The car has not been to the alignment shop yet either.

 

[Stalone93GT]

Does anyone have any aftermarket Tubular K members on their cars??

What about the flaming Rack parts? how easy to install?

 

[Stalone93GT]

.....

 

[TT91]

Im using the UPR kit, k-member, a-arms, road race springs, c-c plates, flaming river steering shaft. Car handles like a dream, took about 4 hrs to install with the motor out.

 

[Stalone93GT]

Sirsureshot39-
Do you know how much weight you droped? and how much was it shipped to you?

flaming river steering shaft- How much different does you sterring fee? Is it lighter to the touch or more responsive?

 

[raymond.wong]

i broke the D&D front control arms a few days ago while I was crusing locally.
I have no idea why they broke. I paid $56 to have my car towed to my house. I just bought a pair of MM front offset control arms. MM arm weighs 7lbs apiece and looks a lot beefier than D&D. With $100 more, It's definately worth it. Since I opentrack, I realized doing right the first place is important. Only buy high quality parts.
I already have broken the rear sway bar from Progress, 3 bolts CC plate from J&M, PHB from BBK, 3 of the 18x9.5 Y2K Cobra R wheels on my car now are bent, cracked the crossdrilled rotors.
They all happened during opentracking, but not at the same time.

 

[dcrahn]

Without a doubt, AJE! They offer more options than the others. Different motormounts, no motormounts, lowered rack and pinion, different rack and pinion. A arm attachment is different than the others, gives you more room. I have one on my big block LX (598 cubes) with headers I made with 2-1/4" primarys, and had very little problem getting those big tubes down through there.



http://www.cardomain.com/id/dcrahn

 

[bhuff30]

Most K member/A arm setups out there are for STRIP USE ONLY. The only front suspension I would trust on my street car are MM and griggs. Sure, its easy to make the parts light, but will they hold up on the street?
I would argue that often street driving is harder on a cars suspension than a couple open track or auto-X runs. Think about the jolt you get when you hit a pot hole or speed bump, and compare that to making a SMOOTH right hander on a nicly prepped track.

i broke the D&D front control arms a few days ago while I was crusing locally.
I have no idea why they broke. I paid $56 to have my car towed to my house. I just bought a pair of MM front offset control arms. MM arm weighs 7lbs apiece and looks a lot beefier than D&D. With $100 more, It's definately worth it. Since I opentrack, I realized doing right the first place is important. Only buy high quality parts.