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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Tourque Box Repair ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter TrickFlowd
  • Start date Start date Mar 17, 2008

TrickFlowd

Member
May 17, 2003
240
0
16
Sayre, PA
Mar 17, 2008
#1
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #1
I'm sure some of you have done this...since its one of the weakest points on our chassis. How extensive is this? Anyone have any suggestions? Should I bolt or weld in Battle Boxes...or do both (weld then bolt)? I plan to purchase this upper and lower combo kit eventhough my lowers are damaged only. I figure I might as well do both at the same time.

http://www.wildridesracecars.com/chassis3.html

Any info is greatly appreciated.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Mar 17, 2008
#2
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #2
I would personally weld them. Bolt holes can elongate, so they may move around and not be of much help. I haven't done them on my car, so someone will have to chime in on how extensive a process it is.
 
J

Jack's95gt

Member
Aug 15, 2004
443
1
18
Huntingdon Valley, PA
Mar 17, 2008
#3
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #3
I just installed them over the weekend. The lowers were easy. The tops were a real pain. The instructions says the drill the two 1/2" holes on the uppers as straight as possible. I found it best to drill them at a going at the same angle as the top of the torque box so the bolts sit flush with the top of the torque box. The two 3/8" holes that goes on the bottom of the upper goes through about 3/8" of metal and takes a while to drill.

No one was around to hold the bolts from the torque box side so I tacked them and went and tighten them up from the inside. I welded the plates inside the car. Maybe it's not necessary to weld them, but it's wasn't a problem since I have my interior out for a roll bar install.

I bought some SWR upper and lowers off of ebay for $70 and the fit and quality of the material was fine. Grade 5 hardware came with it.
 

Fast63

New Member
Sep 20, 2007
717
0
0
Mar 17, 2008
#4
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #4
The bolts are doing nothing once the thing is welded. Bolts are worthless anyway, always weld.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Mar 18, 2008
#5
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #5
I have a set that I'll be putting in soon. I just took out the whole rearend and suspension and I'm completely redoing it. I bought a set of uppers and lowers from UMI performance and had them powdercoated so they don't rust on me in a month. They are definitley worth getting if you plan on putting down a decent amount of power. Bolt them in initially and then get them welded. That way all the install work is done by you and all someone else has to do is weld them if you don't weld.
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Mar 18, 2008
#6
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #6
I've had mine bolted in for a couple of years now and nothing appears to be moving. If I had a few hundred more HP I might worry about it.
 

TrickFlowd

Member
May 17, 2003
240
0
16
Sayre, PA
Mar 18, 2008
#7
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #7
I plan to start mine once it gets warm out. My dad can weld em in for me, just thought bolting them too would make it that much stronger...since the metal isn't all that strong in that area anyways.
 

NKau

Founding Member
Dec 15, 2001
1,346
0
37
Jefferson, WI
Mar 18, 2008
#8
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #8
Maryland Stang said:
I've had mine bolted in for a couple of years now and nothing appears to be moving. If I had a few hundred more HP I might worry about it.
Click to expand...

+1

Bolted mine in, and haven't noticed any movement, stretching or cracking around the bolts. Should probably weld them at some point though.
 

Ramsey 93

New Member
Sep 26, 2007
15
0
0
Mar 18, 2008
#9
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #9
any info on installs?
 

cenok is family

15 Year Member
Jun 25, 2003
1,409
69
79
Norman, Ok
Mar 18, 2008
#10
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #10
Jack's95gt said:
I just installed them over the weekend. The lowers were easy. The tops were a real pain. The instructions says the drill the two 1/2" holes on the uppers as straight as possible. I found it best to drill them at a going at the same angle as the top of the torque box so the bolts sit flush with the top of the torque box. The two 3/8" holes that goes on the bottom of the upper goes through about 3/8" of metal and takes a while to drill.

No one was around to hold the bolts from the torque box side so I tacked them and went and tighten them up from the inside. I welded the plates inside the car. Maybe it's not necessary to weld them, but it's wasn't a problem since I have my interior out for a roll bar install.

I bought some SWR upper and lowers off of ebay for $70 and the fit and quality of the material was fine. Grade 5 hardware came with it.
Click to expand...

same kit i got, great quality, especially for the price! i'm about to have to tackle this as well, i've just been too lazy and after working 14hr days, going home to have to drill and weld just doesn't sound appealing right now. lol as for the OP, i have my interior out because i had to replace my pass. side quarter panel, and i checked it all out. seems pretty straight forward, just gotta drill through some thick metal for the uppers. GT_Rich just got done installing the same kit a few weeks back and he's got lots of pics. PM him, i'm sure he'll email them to you.
 
5

57fairlane

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
560
0
0
Oakwood, GA
Mar 18, 2008
#11
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #11
just welding up the seams helps.

The boxes themselves don't tend to distort until out past 6.50s or so in the 1/8, but it obviously wouldn't hurt.
 
J

Jack's95gt

Member
Aug 15, 2004
443
1
18
Huntingdon Valley, PA
Mar 19, 2008
#12
  • Mar 19, 2008
  • #12
Fast63 said:
The bolts are doing nothing once the thing is welded. Bolts are worthless anyway, always weld.
Click to expand...


The bolts are what attached the two parts of the reinforcements. What gets welded is the plates inside the car under the rear seats.
 
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