Only regurgitating what I learn here from y'all
The computer doesn't care about the TPS voltage as long as during the initial key on it's somewhere within .5 to 1.25 volts. Your idle is too high with the IAC unplugged. The computer wants to be able to control the idle with the IAC at around 30% duty cycle, and the computer is programmed to want to idle at 672 RPM. This is why custom tuning is necessary to achieve a smooth idle at a higher RPM if you have a big cam. There are functions in the computer that need adjusted to achieve that, and not upset it.
This, in this order. Ideally you can set the idle with IAC and SPOUT unplugged below 650 rpm (it will run like a bag of sh!t) but as long as it can run, the lower the better. The lower you get it the more working range the IAC has to try and keep idle smooth.Three things I would suspect:
1) Vacuum leak
2) Throttle stop is set incorrectly
3) Bad IAC
I worked on it this evening and got the idle down to 700, feels and sounds way better!Also, the engine has to be a closed system and if unmetered air is getting into it that will also cause problems. I had this issue with regards to the oil filler cap here:
Change the temperature sending unit. Mine did that and I put a new one in and the gauge went back close to where I was used to it being. Also, these cars came stock with a 192 deg F thermostat so running a colder one will move the needle.
Sounds like your fuel system is good to go. PCV system is pretty basic in that as long as the check valve is working and has a good seal the lower intake you should be good to go.
I noticed you have Motorsport valve covers. What did you do to replace the oil fill neck on the passenger side valve cover? Reason I ask is on mine I had a push in cap...
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