TPS readings - let me know what you think

Ok, I just bought a 95 and I'm a great carb guru but not too familiar with fuel injection. I helped my friend do all the mods on his 90 but that was a year ago. I know TPS should be as close to 1.00 as you can get at idle but how do you adjust it and where do you hook up the voltmeter. Also, which plug do you undo to reset the timing. I havent checked it yet but the car is totally stock so I assume its low at like 8 degrees or something. Then you just reinstall it and start the car. What are the other free mods I can do on fuel injection? This is my wifes car and I just want to pep it a smidge while I'm going through it before she takes it. So you know, its a 5.0, Auto with 98k miles.
 
On the distributor, there is a little pill type thing that you remove. Then you loosen the dizzy up and adjust your timing. Tighten it all back up and put the pill back in and your all set.
 
To test the voltage, probe the green wire (+) and the black wire (-).

key = ON
engine = OFF

I've heard on some sensors you may need to open the holes up a bit to get close to 1.00 but I did not have to do this on mine to get .97v
 
Psydwaze said:
To test the voltage, probe the green wire (+) and the black wire (-).

key = ON
engine = OFF

I've heard on some sensors you may need to open the holes up a bit to get close to 1.00 but I did not have to do this on mine to get .97v

To get a reading do you have to kinda cut into the insurlation or can you just put the two needle things on top of the two wires?
 
just something I thought I shoud bring up. Everytime I make a nick or anything in any wire I seal it to prevent any type of corrosion. If moisture gets into the wire it can corode unseen and cause all types of headaches in the future. Just my .02
 
As long as the TPS is below ~1.1v at idle, LET IT ALONE! The TPS get's zero'ed out start-up. The EEC then sees WOT at ~2.5V from that value. Depending on the year, if the TPS is above 1.1v at idle, the EEC will see that as an error. It's ALL IN PROBST! The PURE BS to set the TPS is just that - a *ricer mod*. There are ONLY two reasons to ever touch the TPS:

o If you put on an aftermarket TB. You get what you pay for. Don't buy FMS, and you often get junk that does NOT meet OEM specs.

o If you adjust the idle stop high and the TPS is then over 1.1V at idle.

Read Probst, get a Tweecer, get an EEC tuner, read the assembly code that is freely on the net. But, be carful of the BS that you read on the net. What Probst says "is law". Mike W is also a top (if not the top) stang EFI guru. Rich Holden is THE guy (and book) for accurate dyno tests. Other than that, ANYTHING that you read on the net should be taking with a grain of salt.
 
TK_05 said:
i dunno i fixed mine and it seems to be running better.. deffinately idles alot smoother..

Yours was over ~1.1V at idle. So, either you have an aftermarket TB, the idle stop was adjusted, or someone else screwed with the TPS before.

Also, never forget the Placebo effect. Placebos were the first pre-made prescription pills to be sold in the U.S. They came in different colors and flavors. There were even suggestions on which one "worked best" for certain aliments.
 
SmockDoiley...You have a 95..The "spout" you need to remove to time it, is on the passenger fenderwell, by you airbox....It should be a Gray plug...It may have electrical tape securing it, least the factorty did that...
Pull that, start, time it, shut it off, replug...your done...
The TFI module is not on the dizzy on the 95...its under the airbox, setting in an Alum heatsink...
 
stang&2Birds said:
Yours was over ~1.1V at idle. So, either you have an aftermarket TB, the idle stop was adjusted, or someone else screwed with the TPS before.

Also, never forget the Placebo effect. Placebos were the first pre-made prescription pills to be sold in the U.S. They came in different colors and flavors. There were even suggestions on which one "worked best" for certain aliments.

... uhh ok... i KNOW my car is running smoother.. its not a placebo... im sure for some it does nothing but for mine.. i went from 1.2v to .98 ... so YES.. there is a noticable difference...
 
thanks for the info about where the spout really is. I'm doing the brakes tomorrow so Ill hopefully not be lazy and get around to timing it. I think I'll set it at like 11 or 12 degrees if it isnt already. I guess I'll shoot the TPS too to see where it is at. I also think I have an exhaust leak because I have a ticking on the passenger side by the headers. I'm thinking header gasket. Is this common at 98K miles?