tps? timing? My horse is sick

86gtriceeater · Feb 1, 2009

I purchased h/c/i (gt40 intakes gt40p heads) ford racing injectors, maf swap from a dude on ebay...finally got everything installed last year but it wouldnt start without ether i narrowed the problem down to the tps sensor...it now starts but as its idling and i try to rev it up fast it basically chokes on the air and makes a "bang" or "pop" out of the cold air tube wtf is that noise from? I having the timing at 14 and tps at 1.1 ( i know it shold be between like .96 and .99) i think? if i rev slowly it pulls strong the whole time unless i try to rev it fast or punch it basically if that makes sense...could this be the tps slightly off? not sure if it would make that big of a difference but my left rear cylinder has a cracked plug wire on it and it seems to smoke there and get really hot but doesnt backfire or even arch on the headers...anyway does this sound like the tps? Also how do i check the resistance on plug wires with a crappy multimeter (someone stole my fluke one)

vristang · Feb 1, 2009

It ain't the TPS...

Pull the diagnostic codes...
Check intake vac...
Check fuel pressure...

Post the numbers on your MAF sensor, and hopefully a pic of the housing.
What is the catch code on the ecu?

jrichker · Feb 2, 2009

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

v8only · Feb 2, 2009

I agree with the codes. I had a horrible idle problem after my maf swap, and found one of the maf swap wires had popped out at the ecu when I pushed the computer in.

I found this by pulling codes and traced it back to my wiring.

Codes should always be your first stop when diagnosing any car with a computer

86gtriceeater · Feb 2, 2009

there arent any numbers on the maf meter

there arent any numbers on the maf meter or housing whatsoever what to do? Also i'm not positive on pulling codes without a scanner...the paperclip trick? the computer is a9l sorry not sure what a catch code is?

86gtriceeater · Feb 2, 2009

sorry missed those last two posts thanks guys ill post the results

v8only · Feb 2, 2009

I bought a cheap autozone eec code scanner..

it doesn't cost a lot, Like $20 or less and comes with a button and a light and a beep sound.

I figured as much as I work on these things it would save me a lot of time and trouble, which it has.

however, that's on my 86 which has no check engine light. I think yours does right?? So it should be a two second thing for you to just use the paper clip. Forgot the new fangled options in aero cars

86gtriceeater · Feb 2, 2009

No man mines 86' gt...its freezing here in wisconsin and wanna get this thing going before it does get nice out...I miss driving it even on ice lol

vristang · Feb 2, 2009

86gtriceeater said:
there arent any numbers on the maf meter or housing whatsoever what to do? Also i'm not positive on pulling codes without a scanner...the paperclip trick? the computer is a9l sorry not sure what a catch code is?

A9L is the catch code....

With no identifying marks on the MAF, how do you KNOW what you have???
Can you post a pic?

86gtriceeater · Feb 4, 2009

yeah ill try but there arent any marks...i guess i took his word for it...but i dont even remember the specs on it at all...its 70 or 73 mm

86gtriceeater · Feb 4, 2009

best i could do with my phone

does this work?

86gtriceeater · Feb 5, 2009

anyone?

86gtriceeater · Feb 5, 2009

I'm going to auto zone or advance auto tomorrow can anyone recommend a reasonably priced scanner from either?

jrichker · Feb 5, 2009

Re-read my post and then decide if you want to spend 3 cents on a paperclip or $30 for a scanner. The paperclip works good and isn't hard to do.

Using a scanner won't get you past deciphering the wiring connectors and which one to use. It still uses the same wiring connnectors as the paper clip method. You can still damage the computer if you connect the scanner incorrectly. Connect the scanner up and use the power wire for the under hood light instead of the gray self test connector and you will burn the computer PC board and cause all sorts of interesting problems. Re-read my post and pay careful attention to the connector colors and warnings.

86gtriceeater · Feb 6, 2009

so for the test light connection just jumper the check engine light wire to my test llght then to the battery? i need a little more detail so i dont screw it up like key on engine off? running?

jt88gt · Feb 7, 2009

I'm not an expert, I do agree with pulling the codes to see where that might send you, but i would make sure that your firing order is right and your distributer isn't 180 out.

vristang · Feb 7, 2009

86gtriceeater said:
does this work?

This is not a standard aftermarket MAF....

Is there a chip installed on the ecu?
I see what might be 2 adjusting screws on the top of the sensor. Are these adjusting screws?

Right now, your MAF is a question mark. I doubt anyone but the previous owner would know what it is.
It might be a good idea to get a known MAF meter????????

86gtriceeater · Feb 18, 2009

i played with the timing some and got it to run decent now but fluctuated between 600 and 1000 where should my idle be at with my mods? as far as the maf meter i have no idea what it is...adjusting screws...never heard of it....how can i tell if my dizzy is 180 off? it runs pretty strong now with a small "pop" backfire out of the air tube wtf? i pulled codes but cant find where i wrote them at the moment but it gave me a thermactor code egr code....hmmm i'll post more info soon but for now can anyone give me any ideas?

tps? timing? My horse is sick

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