Electrical Tps Troubles. Low Voltage At The Vref Or Org/wht Wire.

I really don't. I bought this computer used from a member here for 130 shipped. Its out of an 89. My 91 computer has2 bad capacitors and the car would not start when I bought it. I put this 89 comp. in and it started and ran great, but did not idle good. After checking the voltages and such at the TPS we saw resistance. That's when this thread started.

I suspect someone supplied voltage to the signal return and fried the trace. I checked my system before installing the fixed comp. and had no voltage in my sig ret so I no it wasn't my car.
 
Good luck with your other projects. There are some really good threads on here for heater core replacement(I did mine without removing A/C lines), its not really hard at all just time consuming and hard on the back being bent over for so long...

Don't forget to add some nice sound deadner under that carpet and maybe even redo some wiring or add a new AMP for that sound system while your in there!
 
Thanks. I have read and watched video's on the heater core. Problem is I bought a 34 dollar one before reading about what junk they are. Not going to use it. I'm getting a Ford replacement as I don't want to do that again. I will remove my AC lines as the system isn't charged up yet as I reclaimed the Freon when I rebuilt the engine. I'm going to use 134A when I recharge with a new accumulator, orifice tube and change the oil in my AC pump. That kind of work doesn't intimidate me. I'm very mechanical. And have been a automotive HVAC engineer for 21 years. Just never did much computer diagnostics. Now I'm feeling good about that and what I achieved on my own with help from the site.

I installed custom stereos for years so I'm very good at that and done lots of dynamat.
It will get an all new sound system. But right now I'm enjoying the burbling exhaust tones!
 
I converted over to 134A using same accumulator, although replacing it is probably better. The original accumulator has a manual pressure adjuster on the top of it you can dial down a 1/4 turn to set the right pressure on the sensor for 134A. I didn't replace my lines, but I was told they will be saturated with the R12 oil and that could contaminate the system. However, I have been running with 134A for a few years now with no problems. I also didn't change out my compressor, big no no I know.... But like I said, still running strong with the conversion. At least 3 years now. This I am not recommending of course but just sharing my experience in case it saves you any money not having to buy a new accumulator...