tranny shift question
- Thread starter scott1119
- Start date
jackchan
New Member
sounds like your tv adjustment could possibly be off. A good trans shop can adjust that for ya
good luck
Jack
good luck
Jack
notchback
Founding Member
4.10's are great, but won't cahnge the shift ponit problem. it's actually probably working fine, they shift too low, manual valve body is the ultimate fix, but a shift kit will help alot
shift kit will totally fix the 1-2 shift the 2-3 shift will still be low like around 4k on wot
shift kit will totally fix the 1-2 shift the 2-3 shift will still be low like around 4k on wot
nosmatt
Founding Member
rsw007
New Member
tv is the cable that runs from the throttle body to the tranny.
ive heard good things about baumann shift kits.
ive heard good things about baumann shift kits.
notchback
Founding Member
tv is throttle valve pressure...it controls the line pressure in the trans, it needs to be measured by a shop., to do it properly. it's easily adjusted, but not easily measured
Here's a link to show you how to adjust the TV cable:
The gauge block they talk about is .398" thick + or - a couple
http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/431000_inst.htm
I just used a decent oil pressure gauge, the plug in the
trans is a 3/8 pipe plug so the gauge adapter screws
right in. Just a bear to get to.
The factory preferred setting is 33 lbs, BUT something
closer to 40 will give you firmer shifts at a little higher rpm.
You can also do it this way, quite a bit easier:
Take the locking clip out of the adjusted where it
attaches to the throttle arm,
make SURE the throttle arm is back against the idle stop
gently pull the inner cable just snug so there's no play in it
re-insert the locking tab at that point
(the notches for the locking tab are small & close
together, so you need to be careful to get the
right one - I usually stick a thumbnail in the last
notch right up against the little block, hold it in
the notch, then take the block off the throttle
arm and insert the locking tab, holding the cable
in position till I get it relocked.
Drive the car to warm the trans, try your part & heavy
throttle shifts. If it shifts soft &/or low, pull the cable
OUT one more notch and try it again. If it shifts hard
and late, move the cable back into the housing 1 notch
and try again.
Just FYI, here's some info to help make your AOD live
The first group for moderate performance are relatively
easy to do, you don't have to take the trans out, and
it will make a stock AOD behind a relatively stock motor
live a LOT longer.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article111.html
For some detailed general tech info on AOD's,
which also contains detailed info on internal parts
swaps for added power capacity,
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article80.html
Remember that your AOD has close ratio gears,
so esp. the 1st to 2nd shift will occur pretty quickly
as there isn't a big rpm spread.
The AOD has a pretty high OD ratio so you can get
away with pretty deep gears for street, 3:73's or
4:10's are popular. That helps get your 1st gear
overall ratio down lower for better launches, while
still having reasonable gearing in OD for highway.
For a relatively stock motor, I'd suggest 3:73 as
the deepest. With the torque curve of a relatively
stock motor, it's often better to let the motor's
torque work to accelerate the car with moderate
gears, plus you will be a little better off for
highway mileage. I've got 3:55's and I run 2500rpm
about 75 mph with 245x45x17's. I've got a mild
torquey 351 and it works really well.
[email protected] if I can be of any help
The gauge block they talk about is .398" thick + or - a couple
http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/431000_inst.htm
I just used a decent oil pressure gauge, the plug in the
trans is a 3/8 pipe plug so the gauge adapter screws
right in. Just a bear to get to.
The factory preferred setting is 33 lbs, BUT something
closer to 40 will give you firmer shifts at a little higher rpm.
You can also do it this way, quite a bit easier:
Take the locking clip out of the adjusted where it
attaches to the throttle arm,
make SURE the throttle arm is back against the idle stop
gently pull the inner cable just snug so there's no play in it
re-insert the locking tab at that point
(the notches for the locking tab are small & close
together, so you need to be careful to get the
right one - I usually stick a thumbnail in the last
notch right up against the little block, hold it in
the notch, then take the block off the throttle
arm and insert the locking tab, holding the cable
in position till I get it relocked.
Drive the car to warm the trans, try your part & heavy
throttle shifts. If it shifts soft &/or low, pull the cable
OUT one more notch and try it again. If it shifts hard
and late, move the cable back into the housing 1 notch
and try again.
Just FYI, here's some info to help make your AOD live
The first group for moderate performance are relatively
easy to do, you don't have to take the trans out, and
it will make a stock AOD behind a relatively stock motor
live a LOT longer.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article111.html
For some detailed general tech info on AOD's,
which also contains detailed info on internal parts
swaps for added power capacity,
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article80.html
Remember that your AOD has close ratio gears,
so esp. the 1st to 2nd shift will occur pretty quickly
as there isn't a big rpm spread.
The AOD has a pretty high OD ratio so you can get
away with pretty deep gears for street, 3:73's or
4:10's are popular. That helps get your 1st gear
overall ratio down lower for better launches, while
still having reasonable gearing in OD for highway.
For a relatively stock motor, I'd suggest 3:73 as
the deepest. With the torque curve of a relatively
stock motor, it's often better to let the motor's
torque work to accelerate the car with moderate
gears, plus you will be a little better off for
highway mileage. I've got 3:55's and I run 2500rpm
about 75 mph with 245x45x17's. I've got a mild
torquey 351 and it works really well.
[email protected] if I can be of any help
Similar threads
