Hey guys i just bought my first stang the other night. It has been a long time coming and i really love it. The car has a tremec 3550 and a pro 5.0 shifter. I have never driven a stang balls out before, but i have driven other manual cars and was able to bang gears good. For some reason i cant with this stang. I am hoping it is just me but i am missing gears and grinding the tranny whenever i try and shift hard at wot. When going from first to second i get caught up in between the two. and third gear sometimes grinds. I have a couple of different ideas that i wanted to ask. I saw that they ask you to specify wheather you have a t-5, 3550, or t56 when ordering the pro 5.0. So i was wondering if the pro 5.0 for a t-5 would work on a tremec and just shift rough. Or maybe i need to ajust the stops better. And as for the worst case could someone give me the symtoms of a bent shift fork , or bad syncros ext. All the gears are pretty easy to hit its just every time i get on it in first and try nail second it feels like i am breaking the shifter to get it into gear. Thanks for your help.
tremec trouble.
- Thread starter lxboy
- Start date
The shifters for a 3550 & T5 are completely different & will not fit.
Difficult shifting can be either wrong fluid (Black bottle GM Syncromesh only), a clutch in need of adjustment or misadjusted shifter.
Shifter adjustment copied from Pro 50's website, http://www.pro50shifters.meridian1....3&Document=EASY+install+procedure&NID=1448600
Next step is to set the stop bolts. These bolts are to allow full stick travel. Put it into 2nd gear and hold. Then screw the stop bolt against the shifter stick. Now back it off one turn or .010 gap from the stick. You can use a feeler gauge to check the gap. You don't need to split atoms here, just get it close.
Now put it into 1st gear and hold. Gap the bolt the same as the other bolt (.010). Now check all the gear positions, make sure the stop bolts allow full travel of the stick and that the stick does not hit the stop bolts. When you are all set you can tighten the outer lock nuts to secure the bolts in place.
Clutch adjustment - You need a replacment clutch quadrant and cable if you still have the stock one. FMS, Steeda, UPR and about a dozen other companies make them. Whatever you buy, get all the parts form one manufacturer, that way they fit & work together. I have an FMS quadrant & adjustable cable, and it works fine. A firewall adjuster would help, since you can fine tune the adjustment point without having to put the car up on jackstands to adjust the cable.
The cable will have no slack it in when it is properly adjusted and will have a fair amount of preload so that the throwout bearing is in constant contact with the clutch disk. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.
I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. If I shift only when the pedal hits the floor, there are several milliseconds that the clutch disk is not being driven by the engine or transmission. In theory, this lets the disk slow down some and makes less work for the synchronizers – keep in mind that this is a theory, but it seems reasonable. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate.
Difficult shifting can be either wrong fluid (Black bottle GM Syncromesh only), a clutch in need of adjustment or misadjusted shifter.
Shifter adjustment copied from Pro 50's website, http://www.pro50shifters.meridian1....3&Document=EASY+install+procedure&NID=1448600
Next step is to set the stop bolts. These bolts are to allow full stick travel. Put it into 2nd gear and hold. Then screw the stop bolt against the shifter stick. Now back it off one turn or .010 gap from the stick. You can use a feeler gauge to check the gap. You don't need to split atoms here, just get it close.
Now put it into 1st gear and hold. Gap the bolt the same as the other bolt (.010). Now check all the gear positions, make sure the stop bolts allow full travel of the stick and that the stick does not hit the stop bolts. When you are all set you can tighten the outer lock nuts to secure the bolts in place.
Clutch adjustment - You need a replacment clutch quadrant and cable if you still have the stock one. FMS, Steeda, UPR and about a dozen other companies make them. Whatever you buy, get all the parts form one manufacturer, that way they fit & work together. I have an FMS quadrant & adjustable cable, and it works fine. A firewall adjuster would help, since you can fine tune the adjustment point without having to put the car up on jackstands to adjust the cable.
The cable will have no slack it in when it is properly adjusted and will have a fair amount of preload so that the throwout bearing is in constant contact with the clutch disk. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.
I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. If I shift only when the pedal hits the floor, there are several milliseconds that the clutch disk is not being driven by the engine or transmission. In theory, this lets the disk slow down some and makes less work for the synchronizers – keep in mind that this is a theory, but it seems reasonable. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate.
