Trickflow TW heads & cams for relatively stock Stang?

kalvick

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2001
352
8
39
Norwalk, CT
I am seriously thinking about getting some new compcams thumpr cams to get that lopey noise since they are only a few hundred dollars + install. Then I got to thinking why not do it all at once? I am now debating getting Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads since they make a lot of power.

For a relatively stock mustang (see sig) what heads should I look to get the 38cc or the 42cc? Also does this kit come with a recommended cam? or can I get any cam, like the Thumpr?

I may/may not do a supercharger but either way that decision wont be for a while. what cam should I get to good for NA, and then when I supercharge it I wont have to change the cams out?
 
Do it.

Since you've got a PI (guessing based on your avatar pic) you'll want the 38cc heads. However, if you want to put a blower on the car later you might think about the 44cc heads which will lower the compression ratio and give you a bit more latitude in running higher boost. (You should do the math to verify that the CR wouldn't drop too far with 44cc chambers on a PI shortblock...) However, to take advantage of that (and the fact that these heads flow well) you'll want to think about a built bottom end: rods and pistons and perhaps even a steel crankshaft.

If a blower is a possibility, I'd suggest either staying with stock PI cams or a "Stg 1" or blower cam: Blowers don't like nor need a lot of overlap so the lumpy idle, while sounding cool, would be somewhat counterproductive.

I've got a KB with mild Comp 262AH cams (on stock PI heads...) and it's a nice combo. The cams worked well for NA and for FI setups.
 
I am seriously thinking about getting some new compcams thumpr cams to get that lopey noise since they are only a few hundred dollars + install. Then I got to thinking why not do it all at once? I am now debating getting Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads since they make a lot of power.

For a relatively stock mustang (see sig) what heads should I look to get the 38cc or the 42cc? Also does this kit come with a recommended cam? or can I get any cam, like the Thumpr?

I may/may not do a supercharger but either way that decision wont be for a while. what cam should I get to good for NA, and then when I supercharge it I wont have to change the cams out?

From what I hear on this Board, if you get a blower, "blower Cams" are the thing to do, but not essential. I don't have them, yet. With stock cams, you lose some boost on each exhaust stroke, while blower cams take care of that. Someone more knowledgable may wish to elaborate on this.
 
I am seriously thinking about getting some new compcams thumpr cams to get that lopey noise since they are only a few hundred dollars + install. Then I got to thinking why not do it all at once? I am now debating getting Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads since they make a lot of power.

For a relatively stock mustang (see sig) what heads should I look to get the 38cc or the 42cc? Also does this kit come with a recommended cam? or can I get any cam, like the Thumpr?

I may/may not do a supercharger but either way that decision wont be for a while. what cam should I get to good for NA, and then when I supercharge it I wont have to change the cams out?

trinity post has most of what you need. :) The TW heads come with cams if you get the complete package w/ cams otherwise if you want to choose your cams you just need to get the assembled heads and you can use whatever cam you want.

I'll add-

Option 1: if you want to stay NA (and never go s/c, see option 2 for s/c) than go with the 38cc heads and get a stage 2 cam like the comp 270's, hitech stage 2's, etc.
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51900001-M38 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 185 Cylinder Heads for Ford 4.6L/5.4L 2V - Overview - SummitRacing.com
That should put you in the 320-330rwhp range on a dynojet.

Option 2:
If you want to go with a supercharger down the line I would calculate the compression ratio as stated above for the 44cc heads. You can talk with a trickflow rep and see what they recommend, they are pretty helpful from what I have heard.
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51900002-M44 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 185 Cylinder Heads for Ford 4.6L/5.4L 2V - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I would go with a stage 1 blower cam. And since you would be pulling off your heads you might as well get forged rods and pistons so you can run more boost and take advantage of all of your components. Otherwise if you don't replace your rods and pistons you run the risk of breaking things. Most people say ~400rwhp +/- is the max you want to go on stock internals. I'd purely be guessing, you would probably put down ~300rwhp NA. But with a blower and forged internals your hp potential is 500rwhp+. Not bad :shrug:
 
Here's the thing: With a blower at 10psi, you can get to the theoretical limit of the stock shortblock easily with the stock PI heads. There's little sense in springing for expensive (if spiffy) high-flow heads and then having to throttle the blower back to 6psi (or whatever) to come in around the same 400rwhp because the stock shortblock isn't up to the potential of the other parts.

Remember the old adage about a chain only being as strong as its weakest link...

If a blower is in your future and if these heads are in your future, then rods and pistons is a no-brainer to me.

If rods and pistons are out of the question, then, IMO, you should:

- stay with the PI heads and run a 10psi intercooled blower
- stay normally aspirated and run the small-chamber TW heads and "Stg 1" or "Stg 2" cams

If you go for the stronger reciprocating parts, then:

- get the large-chamber heads (double check the CR) and build the shortblock, slap on a blower at 15psi (you'll need fuel system upgrades...) and start thinking seriously about frame and suspension to match that power...
 
I agree with the idea that there are better ways to get 400+ hp than heads. With the Vortech, you can get 8lbs with no intercooler or blow-off valve and get 350-375 at the rear wheels. Throw in an intercooler and blow-off valve and you are up to 400+. Past that you need a better bottom end. I had Livernois port my stock heads and went with their stage 1 cam. A little bit of lope but I hit 643rwhp at 6K rpms and it's redlined at 7000 now. We ran out of fuel at that point and hadn't upgraded the fuel system. Now that it's upgraded and with crappy 91 octane I'm detuned to 500rwhp but the car pulls like a psycho past 7000. Get better gas and a 2 minute reprogram with the SCT and it's over 600rwhp with a bigger pulley. The smaller pulley will put it past 700rwhp.
 
I have 450+ rwhp. Stock block. I run meth for block safety, no intercooler. You need a good tuner to push the limits on the block, but it can be done. There have been some that have run well more than me on here...and lived for a long time. (note: I don't care if my block goes as I'll just rebuild and switch around the blower etc etc etc anyway. But if you have a daily driver maybe I'd think twice) :shrug: