Trying To Recover From Project Frustration

[Old Skooler]

In June i finally converted to manual breaks and installed the Baer break kit T6 in the front and their rear system w/ e brake. This was so damn painful, the entire time I regretted not doing a simple cobra disc swap and the cost was well over 4k. I wanted something different and I really liked the look, never again!!!For the master cylinder I choose a strange 1.25.

After bleeding the brakes having a friend help with the pro portioning valve the brake pedal is super stiff. To put this into perspective it feels like pushing on a brick wall.

I called Baer and they said my master is to big that I need to use 1.00.

Long story short after 1 joy ride the cars brakes were dangerous and worse then the faded 20 yr old system, and then the starter relay blew. So the car has sat since June and I'm only now getting the bug to fix it.

I'm not as talented as so many of the people on this forum and this is my first complete resto so to speak.

Can someone explain to me why the 1.00 vs the 1.25 master is so different and how that would create a situation with zero travel and a pedal that feels like I'm trying to move a wall?

 

[89oem]

We were just having a similar conversation for a brakeup grade.

See post 8 in this thread Mike is really knowledgeable in this area @Mustang5L5

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/whos-running-turbocoupe-93-rear-discs.881187/

 

[Micheal Nadeau]

Increasing bore reduces the effort needed to brake, makes the brakes firmer (assuming everything else stays the same with in the system) You are compressing fluid at a greater rate. By reducing the bore size, you are compressing fluid at a lower rate, thus giving you a slightly softer feel.

Dealt with this issue on the late 90's early 2000's F150's as they have 4 different master cylinder bore sizes listed based on the set up of the brakes.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I did the same thing when I first converted the red car to manual brakes. Made no adjustment to the pedal ratio initially, and used a MC w/ a 1.125 bore that was part of a kit supplied by Jegs to convert to manual brakes.
During the first test drive, I wasn't sure that I'd even get the car to stop, and it took a Herculean effort leg wise to even make that happen.
After consulting Wilwood, I changed the MC over to one of their 7/8" bore MC's, and modified the hinge point on the pedal to reduce the ratio, and the brakes became uhh............tolerable.
While it was markedly better than before, It still required that I STAND on the brakes to slow the thing if I was going any speed that could be described as fast.

So now that I have a different project, and after taking what I learned from the previous one,
I've installed power brakes.

Manual brakes are for drag cars, and Pinto's.