In June i finally converted to manual breaks and installed the Baer break kit T6 in the front and their rear system w/ e brake. This was so damn painful, the entire time I regretted not doing a simple cobra disc swap and the cost was well over 4k. I wanted something different and I really liked the look, never again!!!For the master cylinder I choose a strange 1.25.
After bleeding the brakes having a friend help with the pro portioning valve the brake pedal is super stiff. To put this into perspective it feels like pushing on a brick wall.
I called Baer and they said my master is to big that I need to use 1.00.
Long story short after 1 joy ride the cars brakes were dangerous and worse then the faded 20 yr old system, and then the starter relay blew. So the car has sat since June and I'm only now getting the bug to fix it.
I'm not as talented as so many of the people on this forum and this is my first complete resto so to speak.
Can someone explain to me why the 1.00 vs the 1.25 master is so different and how that would create a situation with zero travel and a pedal that feels like I'm trying to move a wall?
After bleeding the brakes having a friend help with the pro portioning valve the brake pedal is super stiff. To put this into perspective it feels like pushing on a brick wall.
I called Baer and they said my master is to big that I need to use 1.00.
Long story short after 1 joy ride the cars brakes were dangerous and worse then the faded 20 yr old system, and then the starter relay blew. So the car has sat since June and I'm only now getting the bug to fix it.
I'm not as talented as so many of the people on this forum and this is my first complete resto so to speak.
Can someone explain to me why the 1.00 vs the 1.25 master is so different and how that would create a situation with zero travel and a pedal that feels like I'm trying to move a wall?