Tune-Up Time!

It's time for a nice tune-up and I wanna make sure I get the best stuff. First let me make sure i'm not forgetting anything. Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, pcv valve. Is it necessary to change all of this stuff? I don't have a problem changing it, but I dont want wanna mess with anything that doesn't need to be changed.

More importantly, what are the best spark plugs to get for a basically stock application? What about Wires? MSD? FMS?

Is there anywhere that sells a tune-up kit all together? If not, where is the best place to get all this stuff from? And yes, I did do a search but I didn't find the answers.
 
www.downsford.com sells a complete tuneup kit for roughly $80 bucks...do a search under their parts section and you should come across it...

I believe Autolite 25's are the factory equivalent gapped in the low .050's...(.052-.056) to be specific...

You can't go wrong with replacing the cap/rotor/filter/etc...with Motorcraft parts (replacement)...

I recently did a tune-up which consisted of changing the oil/oil filter/plugs/FMS 9mm wires/pcv valve/grommet/mesh screen/checked timing/fuel filter/cap/rotor/cleaned the IAC and TB/new coolant/and check the TPS/air filter/clean MAF/10 pin connectors (salt and pepper shakers)/check all fluid levels/and check for cracked hoses/etc...I'm sure their are other things I forgot but that is pretty much the 'jist of it...

Good Luck
 
5spd hit on a good point - when doin the PCV, go ahead and do the screen and grommet - your old one is likely vulcanized. OEM on those - aftermarket parts might not fit super tight.

might do trans and rear end fluid if you choose to. synthetics are my preference on those.

how are your brakes? brake fluid? hit whatever grease fittings you can find under the car too. might check the front end to see how it feels.

BTW, i agree with 5spd's sentiments (all that is good to check). i just chose not to repeat all that stuff. :)
 
Ok, so does that kit come with Motorcraft parts for the cap/rotor/filter? Is that kit the way to go, or should I go with aftermarket wires and plugs? Is there a big difference? I don't mind paying more for that stuff.

What about the screen and grommet? Do i get that stuff at the dealer? What does 'vulcanized' mean?

I took care of fluid levels not too long ago, even tranny and rear end fluid.

BTW, I recently had gears installed and found out that the self-adjuster cable for my brakes is broken. I didn't get it fixed because I didn't have enough money at the time, but how serious is that? Is it really important to get that fixed? My mechanic told me $160 to get it fixed.
 
MustangMulch said:
Ok, so does that kit come with Motorcraft parts for the cap/rotor/filter? Is that kit the way to go, or should I go with aftermarket wires and plugs? Is there a big difference? I don't mind paying more for that stuff.

What about the screen and grommet? Do i get that stuff at the dealer? What does 'vulcanized' mean?

I took care of fluid levels not too long ago, even tranny and rear end fluid.

BTW, I recently had gears installed and found out that the self-adjuster cable for my brakes is broken. I didn't get it fixed because I didn't have enough money at the time, but how serious is that? Is it really important to get that fixed? My mechanic told me $160 to get it fixed.
this is all My Humble Opinion.

copper plugs of about any flavor should be fine (i would not run platinums). i run Autolites (25's, IIRC).

vulcanized is when once-supple rubber turns hard as a rock. the PCV valve might not seat as tightly around hard rubber as it can soft rubber, ergo a vac leak. the valve, grommet and screen are about 20 bucks at the dealer.

FRPP wires are said to be nice. if i can swing it, i will likely go with Taylors next time. mostly personal preference.

good luck.
 
I highly suggest getting a cap/rotor with brass contacts, not the silver colored ones, I run Accel cap/rotor. I have had good results with motorcraft (42C) and autolite (25) (running 23's now w/ the s/c'r) spark plugs. A good quality set of plugs wires is a smart idea. I was amazed at the difference after a good tune-up.

Check your coolant with one of those gauges with the balls in it (can't remember what they're called) to make sure it's still up to snuff.

Look over your vacuum lines real good.

Good luck on your tune-up.
 
Here is a link to the tuneup kit...it says it includes (Includes-9mm wires,
cap, rotor, plugs, pcv, fuel filter)...I would assume they are Motorcraft but that is a awfully good deal if they are...because I paid $30 for the cap and I believe $50 for the wires and that right there is the tuneups price of $80...without the pcv/plugs/etc...you might want to email or call them to ask and see...

http://www.thefordsource.com/store/motorsports/electronics.htm

The Motorcraft cap I got had the brass terminals...
 
Could someone "talk me on" to the screen that's been discussed in this thread? I bought one but couldn't find where it goes. I found the PCV - not fun to get at that one...
I just went through everything this weekend also - but could not find the screen to replace it. Also, I think these cars came with ELC, can I run regular coolant in it? I hadn't realized it had ELC until I changed it already and re-read the owners manual (maintanence schedule) and it talks about 3 years or 30,000 miles. The stuff I drained out was green coolant so I figured green coolant went back in - shame on me for assuming, I just don't want to lose a water pump because it's not getting what it needs to work properly. Thanks.:)
 
GreenGTVert said:
Could someone "talk me on" to the screen that's been discussed in this thread? I bought one but couldn't find where it goes. I found the PCV - not fun to get at that one...
I just went through everything this weekend also - but could not find the screen to replace it. Also, I think these cars came with ELC, can I run regular coolant in it? I hadn't realized it had ELC until I changed it already and re-read the owners manual (maintanence schedule) and it talks about 3 years or 30,000 miles. The stuff I drained out was green coolant so I figured green coolant went back in - shame on me for assuming, I just don't want to lose a water pump because it's not getting what it needs to work properly. Thanks.:)

Under the pcv valve (backside/middle of the intake) the mesh screen sits...it is underneath the grommet that the pcv valve "plugs" into...you have to remove the grommet to take the screen out...it is a tight fit...I used dental picks to grab some of those wound-up coils and pulled it right out...

I'm not sure what you mean by ELC...but I use Prestone antifreeze/distilled water...50/50 mixture (I have aluminum heads)...

Here is a pic of the screen I am talking about...

http://secure.50resto.com/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=2131
 
Alright thanks guys. I ordered everything from 50resto, and they told me the motorcraft cap has brass terminals, just like 5spdGT said.

Does anyone know anything about the self-adjuster cable in my brakes? How important is that to get fixed?