Turbo Install Complete, Not Running Right Now

Lean would be not enough fuel. What size injectors are you running?

Do you have a Fuel Pressure Gauge??? You need to be around 40PSI and when revved the Fuel pressure should raise by a few psi.

It ran how before? What all did you install at this time? List the parts please.

Who wrote the tune?

If it runs, the computer isn't shot.
I think you just got a bad tune for your set up.

I also like where Gearhead is going. Did it run good before the turbo install? If it ran like as* before, and then you put a turbo on it, you probably opened up a GIANT can of worms.

91foxbod50 said:

Rams like a champ before install

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Okay good! So that narrows it down to either the turbo set up itself, or the chip.
In all honesty though, I really think you just got a bad tune for your set up. Because if it runs ok without a chip and then worse WITH the chip, that's evidence enough for me to junk the chip or get a new tune burned onto it.

To start, the 6al (while I'd personally bury it in the yard, some people like them) doesn't give you a rock solid ignition system so assuming the rest of the system is stock you're not really helping much. Made that mistake myself before. Also the chip isn't going to "handle all the fuel issues" as simply as you've put it. It's still managed by the computer, the chip just changed the parameters that the computer is looking for. If the fuel system isn't up to par the chip can tell it whatever it pleases, you're still out of luck. Maybe you've got more mods listed in your sig which I can't see, if so I appologize. But it's sounding like the car isn't up to snuff to handle a turbo, regardless of it being a bolt on and go kit. I'm assuming you've only got as far as idling from the sound of it. So this could be the beginning of bigger issues. I'd imagine your baseline moates tune is off the mark, which is common and to be expected. Time to get back to tuning

I missed the post listing the other fuel mods, I'd put my money on it being a tune issue. The stock computer can handle a lot for what it is, so it running worse with the tune in should tell you it's a problem with the tune. Not sure if you're using the quarter horse yourself to tune or if that's just what the tuner used. Either way that's where I'd start. My apologies for my reading comprehension

Question are you using the MAF that you buy with the kit?>..if so good luck i hear nothing but bad things about them...The shop that did my install told me to stay away from there MAF because they did A car a few months prior to mine and the MAF was calibrated wrong I have a PRO-m in my car..Also try no chip lock the timing at 12-14 degrees see if it runs better there, also what did you gap your spark plugs to///Mine vac lines are ran to the VAC tree and intake...that i can see...i run 14 psi see good...Oh yeah also one more thing did you use there injectors?,,i hear they are causing problems too...

Whats left after maf and injectors? Piping turbo and bov and wastegate two of which they also have bad problems with the turbo they dont make so its good and the piping is just piping

MikeH686 said:

Whats left after maf and injectors? Piping turbo and bov and wastegate two of which they also have bad problems with the turbo they dont make so its good and the piping is just piping

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Huh?? I dont know i see alot of people sayin these kits are junk some say there great..I have one no problems its a daily driver...I have a friend that has it for over a yr now never had one issue...Remember its not alwyas the kit it could be the installer..Mine was done by a shop...installed and tuned..it was a turn key project worked well for me...

Be sure you have the battery negative cable disconnected when removing or inserting the Moates chip. This will help prevent damage to the chip or computer. Remember that it takes 15-30 minutes of steady speed driving for the computer to re-learn the sensor settings. The engine may run rough until it re-learns the sensor settings.

Step 1.) Take the chip out, dump the codes. Fix any codes that you find.
Step 2.) Put the chip back in, dump the codes. Fix any codes that you find. Take note of any different codes that pop up other than a code 15.

Post the codes here in 5.0 Tech and I will try to help you resolve fixing them.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

Make sure there isnt any goo on the new MAF, hoses are tight etc. I fought mine for a while with a computer issue only to find it needed to learn its settings. I had a drain and kept unhooking the battery till I found it. It had to relearn every time I started it. Runs like a top now that the drain is fixed and computer is learned.

91foxbod50 said:

Mass air is a pmas injectors are green top 42lb.

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Is that there MAF from them?