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turbocoupe rear in stang?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 91lxvert
  • Start date Start date Feb 8, 2004

91lxvert

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Dec 13, 2003
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Feb 8, 2004
#1
  • Feb 8, 2004
  • #1
i thought i saw something about being able to put a turbocoupe rear in a stang.

is it possible?
what are the differences (i.e. wheelbase length and such)?

i also heard soemthing about the transmission in them but cannot remember what it was.

any info or websites anyone may have would be great

thanks!!!
 

CobraWannabe

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Jul 16, 2003
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Lancaster, PA
Feb 8, 2004
#2
  • Feb 8, 2004
  • #2
Well, I started to install one on my car, then got a hold of a Cobra rear instead. the only thing I noticed was the brake lines needed some cutomizing. I'm sure the tranny was as strong as the ones in Stangs that year. Plus I'm pretty sure those rears had 3:55's, not sure, but mine did, and it's still for sale if you're interested.
 

91lxvert

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Dec 13, 2003
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Feb 9, 2004
#3
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #3
is the length the same as the stock fox axle?
and where are you located at?

were the turbocoupes 4 lug or 5?

and did they have traction loc?
 

CobraWannabe

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Jul 16, 2003
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Feb 9, 2004
#4
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #4
91lxvert said:
is the length the same as the stock fox axle?
and where are you located at?

were the turbocoupes 4 lug or 5?

and did they have traction loc?
Click to expand...

My wheels fit fine, as for the length of the axle. They're 4 lug. I'm in Lancaster, PA. I'm not sure about the traction loc, but I don't see why they wouldn't have it.
 

91lxvert

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Feb 9, 2004
#5
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #5
oh man so close, i live in lancaster,CA

oh well if it was five lug i would probably shoot for it, but thanks for all the info
 

CobraWannabe

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Jul 16, 2003
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Feb 9, 2004
#6
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #6
no problem
 

TIMMY2734

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May 17, 2002
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Queens, NY
Feb 9, 2004
#7
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #7
Its gonna be about 1.25" longer total because of the disc brakes. Its 4 lug and has a t-loc just like the stangs. Basically the same as the cobra rear. Autos came with 3.73s and sticks with 3.55s. You need to use the cobra e brake cables if you want the e brake.

The trans is not as strong but has a alower first gear ratio. Peopel have used them, but you also need to change your pilot bearing to the one that the 4 cylinders use because its smaller
 
9

96 DOHC Cobra

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Cerritos, CA
Feb 9, 2004
#8
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #8
91lxvert said:
oh man so close, i live in lancaster,CA

oh well if it was five lug i would probably shoot for it, but thanks for all the info
Click to expand...

I have a couple for sale if you're interested. I'm a lot closer. South end of LA County, by Long Beach. I want $250 for a complete one, but you'll still need the 93 Cobra E-brake cables.
 

trbkrb

Founding Member
Jun 4, 2001
1,976
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39
Houston, TX
Feb 9, 2004
#9
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #9
They will bolt in with just redrilling the quad shock mounts 2" lower if you use them. To use the disc brakes, you can use your brake lines with fittings to adapt to the flex lines by bending the hard line into a "U" to take up the extra line. Timmy is right on the ratios and such, the axles are .75" longer than the Fox ones, the same length as the 94-98 SN95 axles. It is basically the exact same rear end as on the 93 Cobras. You can make it 5 lug by using the SN95 axles and redrilling the rotors for the 5 lug pattern. But this would really only be worth it if you got it for cheap. I got mine for $60 with the 3.73 gears, but that was without calipers. Our Pick a part places always have them and sell them for about $125 complete. You would need a new master cylinder and adj. proportioning valve with the disc brakes. Read on Matt's website about it:

http://svo73mm.cjb.net

I have another site bookmarked at work on the installation, I'll post it later.
 

jrichker

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Feb 9, 2004
#10
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #10
Been there and done that! With success!

It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.

Auto trans Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving.

You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made. You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.

You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.

All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
 
R

Ryan91Saleen

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Apr 18, 2003
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Washington
Feb 9, 2004
#11
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #11
i want to do the five lug conversion but i dont have the cash
 

MrKwik

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Feb 9, 2004
#12
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #12
I'm going to put a TC rear in my car probably later this week after my new T5 shows up. What I did though is convert the TC rear to the stock length of the Mustang. I got to measuring and discovered that the housing is the same dimension as the Mustang housing but the axles are 3/4" longer per side to accomodate the antilock brakes exciter rings. I had a pair of 4 lug Mustang axles left over from when I converted my 86 to 5 lug so I did a test fit and found that the bearing surface on the axle ends up in the right place so no problems there. The only issue is that now the calipers are too far out to fit the rotors. I found out after I did the conversion that you can buy brackets that work with the TC brakes but they cost about $100. What I did was to cut off one of the 3 mounting bolt ears so that the bracket would go around the housing behind the flange then I made spacers and bolted it on with the remaining 2 holes and welded it to the housing for good measure. I dont have it in the car yet but I dont see any reason that it wont work. It will work as is with stock wheels but I have 9" Cobra R's which is why I shortened it. I got the 3.73 rear out of an automatic car so it should work well with the 2.95 first gear T5 I just ordered. For the brakes I found a '93 Cobra master at my local O'Riley for $60. It is a brand new unit and came with the resivior. Im getting the rear brake line adaptors and 2 port conversion from Matt. Rather than reusing metal line from the Mustang I am just going to bend up a new one to fit the TC rear. On a side note, I paid $125 for my complete rear from a locak junkyard and they pulled it. I did have to replace the rotors and pads though.
 

Matt90GT

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May 6, 2001
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Feb 9, 2004
#13
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #13
MrKwik said:
I'm going to put a TC rear in my car probably later this week after my new T5 shows up. What I did though is convert the TC rear to the stock length of the Mustang. I got to measuring and discovered that the housing is the same dimension as the Mustang housing but the axles are 3/4" longer per side to accomodate the antilock brakes exciter rings. I had a pair of 4 lug Mustang axles left over from when I converted my 86 to 5 lug so I did a test fit and found that the bearing surface on the axle ends up in the right place so no problems there. The only issue is that now the calipers are too far out to fit the rotors. I found out after I did the conversion that you can buy brackets that work with the TC brakes but they cost about $100. What I did was to cut off one of the 3 mounting bolt ears so that the bracket would go around the housing behind the flange then I made spacers and bolted it on with the remaining 2 holes and welded it to the housing for good measure. I dont have it in the car yet but I dont see any reason that it wont work. It will work as is with stock wheels but I have 9" Cobra R's which is why I shortened it. I got the 3.73 rear out of an automatic car so it should work well with the 2.95 first gear T5 I just ordered. For the brakes I found a '93 Cobra master at my local O'Riley for $60. It is a brand new unit and came with the resivior. Im getting the rear brake line adaptors and 2 port conversion from Matt. Rather than reusing metal line from the Mustang I am just going to bend up a new one to fit the TC rear. On a side note, I paid $125 for my complete rear from a locak junkyard and they pulled it. I did have to replace the rotors and pads though.
Click to expand...


Dude, NorthRaceCar brackets! that is all I have to say about that!

http://www.northracecars.com
 

MrKwik

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Feb 9, 2004
#14
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #14
Ya, thats it. (see attachment) The brackets are $150 though and I'm cheap

Hey Matt, you got the part number to that fitting to gutt the combination valve from Summit. I cant find it in the catalog or online?

edit:cant get the damn attachment to work so here is the bracket http://www.northracecars.com/catalog/brakes/rear/fourlugdisc/images/4lug1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 4lug1.webp
    31.9 KB · Views: 170

trbkrb

Founding Member
Jun 4, 2001
1,976
4
39
Houston, TX
Feb 9, 2004
#15
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #15
Mike,

That is my kind of solution! I've seen a couple of articles on that stock length axle conversion, and it should work just fine. But you might have some moan and flex of the calipers if you did not move and reweld the anti-moan braces.

Here is the website I mentioned:

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/pit/2740/reartech.html

Thomas
 

MrKwik

Founding Member
Jan 29, 2000
1,008
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0
Kansas City, Kansas
Feb 9, 2004
#16
  • Feb 9, 2004
  • #16
good point. I actually didnt do that, I just removed them. I can make a pair real easy an weld them on since the rear is still out of the car though. I think I will do that. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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