Turning off!!!

Guero

Guero

Active Member
Oct 11, 2005
2,148
0
47
#1
Hey man I haven't done anything to the HB. But Now I have a new problem. I went to the store and when I came back to start it, it didn't want to. It just cranked and cranked but no start. I popped the hood, looked around moving wires around to check them. Nothing seemed wrong. So I went to start it and it did. So i took of about 3 miles ahead it just turned of and I tried to start it while I was rolling and nothing. So I pull over and did the same did. Looked around while moving wires and it started. About 3 minutes ahead it did it again. As I was pulling over I was cranking and it started so I just took of. And after that nothing happened. I kept driving around to see if it would do and nothing. Later today I took it out and punched in 1st and at around 4000 rpms it turned of and backfired but it stared right up. I punched it again but everything worked fine. What could be wrong??? :bang: :bang: :bang: And the dizzy is brand new(remanucfactured), coil, plugs, and wires are new to.

Bad thing this all Happened in LA
 
#2
Dude, you're in LA?

When it takes a fat poop on you and just cranks, check for spark and injector pulsing. Just because a dizzy is reman'd does NOT mean it has a new PIP. A lot of times if a PIP bench tests ok, it's left on there.

If you are only missing spark, the TFI or coil are likely.
To determine which, put a test light across the two coil terminals (the small electrical wires) when it wont start. If you see your test light flashing real quick, chances are the coil took a poop. If the test light doesnt flash, something before the coil is acting up.

Good luck bud.

P.S. I was going to ask how your new radiator did - it was 100* with 50 mph winds up in Phx. But you're chillin in LA instead.
 
#3
No Im Phoenix now, but in LA it was really hot to. With the A/C and 4 people in the car and a trunk full of luggage it reached 210, a little over in heavy ass traffic. I got back today and it was around 190 in Phoenix with the AZ on, on moderate flowing traffic. On the freeway its just right under 180.

So I check for spark on the coil, do I disconnect the plug on the coil or leave it on??
 
#4
I've always just hooked a timing light up to the coil wire and cranked it with the timing light in the car. If it lit up..there was power.

If you have someone there to help you, Just take the coil wire off and put it next to a ground. Have someone crank it over when it's messing up. If it's zapping your ground, it's good.

remember, You have to do this when it's messing up.

Those intermittent problems are the WORST

good luck
 
#6
Do you have an extra or stock coil laying around? If so pop it on and see what happens. I recently had a dead coil. Car ran fine the day before. The next day, my day off, I fired it up and let it run for a minute and then turned it off because I forgot something in the house and went to restart - nothing. Check under the hood for anything out of whack - nothing. So I had put the stock coil on and vrooooom - started up. Coil was gone. Drove to the speed shop and got new coil.
 
#7
i think i found my Problem. My shift light wire was showig wire and was in reach of metal. Im sure that if it did touch it it would die. So I just disconnected it and if it happens again ill have to go tru all that. And intermittent problems do suck cuz it hard to know when its gonna happen and you aren't always able to check whats the problem right away
 
#8
Ok it wasn't the shift light wire. It didn't again thank god. So I pulled over(i had to :lol:) Took the coil spark wire of, and touchched the tip to some metal and no spark. My bro cranked it a few times and nothing. So I just stand there and tell him to do it again. And BAM!!!!!!!!! I get ****ing shocked :lol: :owned: So is it the coil????
 
#9
It's possible...Check across the terminal connectors that JT mentioned earlier next time it does this.

Also, I'd recommend a noid light set. When it messes up, hook the noid test light up to a fuel injector harness. If it's not pulsing (signifying that you are getting injector firing), then the PIP is likely at fault.


FWIW, I had a similar problem to yours. My problem was one of the wires that's inside the harness that connects to the bottom of the coil (2 wires) was starting to come undone on me. It'd cut off, I'd move the wire, and it'd start again. Make sure all of your wires are looking good and making good connection. (I don't think this is your problem though)

btw...those coil shocks aren't too fun are they? lol
 
#10
Im not trying to say your wrong, but would not having pulse cuz me not to have spark? Im not sure but i dont think so....Plus Im really low on cash so i cant go out buying tools right now....

And the shocks are fun lol!!!
 
#13
No problem at all man

If your PIP sensor goes out (or is starting to) you won't have injector pulsing OR spark. This is what usually happens:

The PIP sensor gets hot (it's sensitive to heat) and doesn't work. You let if cool off for a few mins...and it starts right up. This is because the sensor has time to cool off and start working right again....until it heats back up and fails. Electronics hate heat.

I picked up the noid light set from autozone for like 11 bux.

btw, I know how much it sucks being short on cash and having car problems (broke college student managing a chuck E. cheese...woohoo?) One thing you might try doing is borrowing a friends coil (if you have any friends with the same type coil) that way you can swap it out. HOPEFULLY, once you swap it out and drive it around a bit you won't have a problem. If so..the coil is your problem and you won't have to spend any extra loot on parts that don't fix your problem.

sorry this is so long. But these are the three main things to look at when your car won't start or dies on you and won't start again:

PIP sensor
Coil
Ignition module

I'm willing to put my money on the PIP sensor. With the age of our cars...they're starting to fail.

best of luck
 
#16
yeah, it's in the dizzy.

If you find out that your PIP is your problem, I have a stock dizzy laying around the apartment (without the cap and rotor). It worked perfectly when I took it off the car. All you'd have to do is switch your cap and rotor over and everything should be good.

Just pay shipping and it's yours.
 
#18
haha, that works too...I love warranties.

I've gone through about 4 alternators in the last year (3 in a week) before I finally found my problem....the people at pep-boys would see me coming in...and go back to the back and grab and alternator lol.

Let us know what happens with the noid light testing (worse comes to worst...you could always just take the set back)
 
#20
I'm in the same boat....I just made a tune on the tweecer to run my combo on 89 vs. 93...just too damn expensive lol.

In about a month I'm going with a zex dry kit with a 125 shot though. This cam I have just doesn't do as well as it should without the blower....so I think some nitrous might help it out a bit :D

let us know how everything turns out.

btw, by now, you should be a master mechanic.
 
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