Tweecer IDLE on "warm-up" question....

[Pokageek]

Since setting my idle at 800RPM, my car doesn't do the warm-up thingy anymore and just idles it's way down to 800 RPM right away. Then it stalls out sometimes with my b-cam unless I keep my foot on the accelerator until she warms up. Is there a "warm-up idle" setting? Thanks.

 

[final5-0]

If you got EA then follow the help notes.

Your gonna be working with tb airflow and isc neutral idle airflow values.

If you don't have EA yet then Dennis gave the details of both procedures or methods of arriving at the values needed for your new combo in a thread about 3 to 6 weeks ago.

It was a very good write up.

Shout back if you can't find it.

Grady

 

[Pokageek]

Sorry, what's EA?

 

[blksn955.o]

EA = Eec Annalizer prob the best tune aid for us...I would say it is one of the largest factors in making the tweecer easier to work with for beginners/self tuners.

You can download the program for free and use the help files but for it to do the calc. you need to buy a product number at $50 for it to work. Well worth the money IMHO.

 

[Pokageek]

Ok. Thanks guys.

 

[final5-0]

Here is a thread where some info is given and focus on the various posts by Dennis.

One has a link you need to follow.

You ought to remember this thread as you posted in it, lol.

Hope it helps some!

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=579887

Grady

 

[Pokageek]

YEp, thanks. I may post in a thread but don't always read the whole thing as it pans out.

Two other items I think I found for those who may have difficulty:

#1 I disconnected the red and green vacuum lines completely this time rather than having one of the lines hooked into the intake and then capped the holes.

#2 I found out my throttle cable has been partially snagged for probably weeks. It gave me one hell of a throttle response! lol! I was like WOW!! But it may have been part of the problem. But considering the power it felt like, I am thinking of shortening the throttle cable a little now.

RESULT: The car idles and drives better now. Interesting huh..

 

[final5-0]

YEp, thanks. I may post in a thread but don't always read the whole thing as it pans out.

Dam ... There it is ... Always suspected it

It usually takes me a while in some of these threads to figure out how to say some of my best stuff that might help somebody

Nobody sees it amnit:

Reckon this is anything like .........................

the light in the refrigerator

or

that tree falling in the forest

Grady

 

[Pokageek]

I read my own threads extensively if I have a question and welcome your expert advice (I consider you an expert Grady)..and a few others here as well). I am saying that don't always read through someone elses thread entirely unless I am answering a question or stumble on it in a search looking for answers. Hope that makes sense.

 

[final5-0]

I read my own threads extensively if I have a question and welcome your expert advice (I consider you an expert Grady)..and a few others here as well). I am saying that don't always read through someone elses thread entirely unless I am answering a question or stumble on it in a search looking for answers. Hope that makes sense.

Just tryin to have a little fun as the site is not doin a whole lot lately anyway.

Did you find the info you needed to get started with tweecing your way to drivability nirvana?

Grady

 

[Pokageek]

YEs but I don't plan on fooling with the tweecer much beyond basic settings. That's why I bought the base model. I got the car running the way I wanted it with very little head-ache. Of course in the next 2 weeks here I go again adding heads, MAF and injectors to drive myself batty with changing everything again and hoping it works out, lol.

 

[blksn955.o]

Until you get the R/T EA will be 100% useless for you...it uses the datalogs to do its voodoo doo-doo that is soo goo-goo good.