Undercoating

[Hoffman]

I just started resoring my 68 coupe, and was wondering what do you guys use for undercoating. Mine had the caked on rubberized stuff. I've spent three weeks so far with a heat gun, scraper, and a sand blaster. This stuff sucks to get off, and I really don't want to put the same crap back on. I was looking at the eastwood comp. low gloss undercoating, but don't know if it will really do the job.

 

[65kcoupe]

I had some leftover rhino liner and I used that for the instead of the quarters/fenders...I like it. Its not too thick and looks a lot better than the usual undercoating stuff.

 

[Hoffman]

I wasn't really wanting to go back to a rubberized coating. From the looks of mine it cracked over time, flaked off, allowed moisture underneath etc. etc. I was wondering if there was a spray on enamel that would hold up real well under there. I was also planning on using the same stuff in the engine bay as well.

 

[n8rsk8r]

This is what I plan on using:

http://www.astantislip.com/marinefolder/ast_marine/indextoo.html

I used to work for a paintstore chain called ICIpaints. We sold this stuff. They still do, I just no longer work for em I want to coat the bed of my truck also. The stuff is SUPER expensive around $70.00 a gallon. If it is tough enough for aircraft carriers, I am sure it will do just fine for the underside of the stang.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I just started resoring my 68 coupe, and was wondering what do you guys use for undercoating. Mine had the caked on rubberized stuff. I've spent three weeks so far with a heat gun, scraper, and a sand blaster. This stuff sucks to get off, and I really don't want to put the same crap back on. I was looking at the eastwood comp. low gloss undercoating, but don't know if it will really do the job.

Next time try this method for undercoating removal.

 

[Henceforward]

This is the end all solution...

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=621198

 

[xoxbxfx]

i would just por15 it and be done...no need for undercoating

 

[NasaGT]

good chop as always hence!

That thread is hysterical BTW.

 

[zookeeper]

I use the 3M spray can undercoating. It looks nice, it's a no-brainer to apply, there's virtually no overspray and it's easily removed with a little lacquer thinner in the future.

 

[66mustangg]

yeah try looking at por15 and then put the chassis coat over that for a strong finish....www.por15.com

 

[n8rsk8r]

I like the guy in the middle, the black and white one

 

[Taranis]

I removed all of my undercoat with a couple of wire wheels. A nasty job that I'm glad is over with. Then I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator to help with those problem spots, then the Eastwood undercoat system. It is asphalt based, not rubber. If you're gonna use the undercoating system from eastwood, I recomend a Tyvek suit, respirator, and Splash shield. That stuff gets everywhere.

 

[n8rsk8r]

I removed all of my undercoat with a couple of wire wheels. A nasty job that I'm glad is over with. Then I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator to help with those problem spots, then the Eastwood undercoat system. It is asphalt based, not rubber. If you're gonna use the undercoating system from eastwood, I recomend a Tyvek suit, respirator, and Splash shield. That stuff gets everywhere.

If you really want to block out all the crude I have the answer.

Okay the metal scraper arms that go in a water clearifier tank on in a water treatment plant are coated with a coating that will last the most potent acids and stay submerged in this acidy-nasty poo-water for 5yrs before the tank is drained and they are sandblasted rewelded and recoated. This substance is Coal-Tar-Epoxy. Bottom line, it is the most corrosion resistant and water repellent substance I have EVER heard of. It dries super hard, you can't just beat it off cause it still has the properties of tar, yet hard like epoxy. It runs 200.00 a 5gallon bucket, it is a two part system, coal-tar and the catalyst, you mix it and pot life is around 40 min in 70degree temp.

Problem is:

1.you can't get it off.
2.even though they say it is not toxic, you develop puss pockets on your skin
3.It smells like ass. Okay, asphalt/tar

 

[Henceforward]

I like the guy in the middle, the black and white one

This guy was lucky to survive...

View attachment 483343

http://www.24hourmuseum.org.uk/nwh_gfx_en/ART24845.html

 

[mtbdoc]

I have a bunch of this stuff I will use in the 'vert. http://www.quietcoat.com/ Put 5 gal into the doors, rear seat area/side panels, and trunk in my GTO. Although the goat is very quiet stock [much more so than a late-model Mustang] with the rear-mount turbo, I didn't want sound intrusion into the car. For the old girl, it ought to be just the trick. Tapping on the outside of my side panels sounds like hitting a rock! Then again, there is ALSO a bunch of B-quiet ultimate sheet in there, and I filled a lot of crevices in the car w/ Great Stuff [the expanding foam in the can from Home Depot]. The 'vert is going to be noisy, but anything underneath I can avoid will be helpful.

Then to really eliminate any other noise, there will be two of these sitting between the rollbars where the back seat used to live: http://www.edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=2&pid=21&tab=Features&cur=USD

By the way, I sincerely hope that none of you are getting the same disgusting video clip in the lower right corner of this page that I seem to have!

 

[68converted]

I scrapped, wire wheeled and cussed the undercoating from my vert. Sanded everything and then used Por 15. I will also be using the QuietCar product in every nook and cranny. As long as all the dust and tar is off the car, the Por15 will stick and dry to a crazy hard coating. You can beat it with a hammer and it will barely have a mark on it. JMTC

 

[sc0ttiej]

i'm using zerorust on the underside, engine bay, fenderwells, back side of all the removable panels, and interior. it's non-hardening, so it shouldn't crack, but with a heavy coat it doesn't take abrasion well (it smudges). you can spray it over minor rust, and old paint, so the surface doesn't have to be 100% clean. because it's thick and non-hardening (rubbery) it will help dampen vibration. it also grabs the ice & water shield i'm using on the interior for further vibration dampening. with a little practice i've achieved a nice "splatter" finish, looks a little like rino-coating. the only thing i'm a little worried about is how well it takes high heat (like near the exhaust). i guess if it catches fire while i'm driving down the highway, it should make a nice effect for passers-by.

 

[Hoffman]

Thanks for the replys. I'm going to go with the por15. I've never used the stuff before so I didn't know how well it would hold up to rocks and other crap you would find on the road. I really like not having all that asphalt looking stuff underneath the car. I finally got it all off of the fender wells, and looked at some of the hunks that came off. Apparently the person who sprayed that stuff on got carried away, in some places it was almost a 1/4 to 3/8" thick. Not to mention it looked like total chit. Now I just have to find a way to get the stuff out of the crevices in the trunk.

 

[xoxbxfx]

i have taken a hammer to por15 metal and never really had a problem