Underdrive Pulley Bashing.
- Thread starter dmontzsta
- Start date
96_SVT_VeNoM
Banned
My buddys 4v is running like junk. Lets just say that hes got the bolt ons which include a set underdrive pulleys, yes he abuses his car and yes the problems is likely due to the undrives being on the car for some time. Its got 130000 miles on it. Its a 4v issue and not a 2v issue FTW period
96_SVT_VeNoM
Banned
I wouldnt recommend them to the 4v guys, its not worth the 5-10 horses you get. Especially not for 200 bucks or so.
the98stang
Active Member
Underdrive pullies won't cause any problems if they are installed correctly. I think they're worth the money for sure. $200 for 7-9WHP is DAMN good. Compare that to plenum/tb combo's ($300-400) for 9whp MAX. Get the non piggy back pullies like Steeda, and you can't go wrong. They won't ***** up your oil pump, or your crank.
blackfang
Founding Member
Like it has been stated and I have provided concrete proof in another thread, UDP's have caused atleast 9 engine faulires and damaged 1 in a DOHC. 4v guys stay away from them.
RandyStinchcomb
New Member
jstreet0204
Active Member
the98stang said:
Just to make this clear, regardless of if they are installed correctly, if your engine sees high rpm like 7k they should be avoided. Even the non piggy back style. For most of us 2v guys this is not a problem.
An impact on a crank bolt? How do you torque that? Just a question.
My experience with the piggyback type isn't good. I went thru 2 alternators and 2 batteries in 3 years. I've had them off for 2 years now and have had zero issues with the alt and batt now. Just my experience...
If I did put them on again I'd go with Steeda's or similar that replace the crank pulley instead of piggybacing the stocker.
My experience with the piggyback type isn't good. I went thru 2 alternators and 2 batteries in 3 years. I've had them off for 2 years now and have had zero issues with the alt and batt now. Just my experience...
If I did put them on again I'd go with Steeda's or similar that replace the crank pulley instead of piggybacing the stocker.
2013 Geee T
Founding Member
On my 01 I developed a crank seal leak. The dealer said wouldnt cover it because of the pullies. I dont know for sure if it was related or not.
dustang50
Member
the98stang
Active Member
lover
Founding Member
SilverBullet00 said:
You beat me to it. No. You are correct. Max AC is what you should run. I think people think the MAX means that it is maxing the AC out and it's running at its maximum potential. But it really means that the AC is running at Maximum Efficiency....
I'm pretty sure that on Max you close off the outside input of air which allows the cabin to cool better/quicker. On the normal setting the outside damper is open allowing outside air to mix with conditioned air. On most foriegn cars you have a open or closed selector for the outside air. Either way the AC runs cooler on max since there is no warm outside air to increase the temps.lover said:You beat me to it. No. You are correct. Max AC is what you should run. I think people think the MAX means that it is maxing the AC out and it's running at its maximum potential. But it really means that the AC is running at Maximum Efficiency....
your supposed to use max a/c setting when it's over 80 degrees or very high humidity
max a/c is when the outsidew air inlet is closed off so the interior air is recirculated. since this air is cooler it's easier for the a/c system to keep it cold on a hot day
max a/c is when the outsidew air inlet is closed off so the interior air is recirculated. since this air is cooler it's easier for the a/c system to keep it cold on a hot day
