updated intake manifold and new brakes review

[DerekStangGT]

overall, the install wasnt bad at all. dare i even venture to say it was easy? anyway, being the cocky guy i am, i didnt bother to read any how-tos beforehand. total time was about 3 hours, including the time it took to remove and re-install my STB, which was a PITA. i took my time and cleaned everything up real well, then installed a set of Autolite 103 plugs gapped at ~.054. i did have to modify the alternator bracket a bit though. had to cut off the corner that stuck out next to the t-stat housing. it was digging into the upper hose. other than that, the install was a breeze. the new plugs feel great, smooth power and my cold-start bucking problem went away.

i also installed new 13" Brembo slotted rotors (zinc plated) and EBC ceramic pads in the front. talk about a PITA that was. the pads were too thick and wouldnt fit over the rotor when loaded into the caliper. so i had to grind off about 1mm total from both the inner and outer pads to get them to fit over the rotor. other than that, the new brakes feel great too, and stopping is better than with the last set of 13" Brembo knockoffs.

 

[tiptone]

Maybe I missed a thread but, what intake did you install?

 

[superstang01]

Maybe I missed a thread but, what intake did you install?

+1

 

[isjoining]

i think its the PI intake manifold with the aluminum crossover

 

[1992 2.3LX]

i did the same thing last week.
Very simple install. I bought the new alternator bracket though. I also used auto lites gapped to .054.

You state you didn't read any directions. I sure hope you took into account propper torque specs when it came to the manifold. It needs to be torqued in a certain order to 18lbs
http://www.modulardepot.com/diagrams/intake.gif

I also hope you used the proper torque specs for your plugs. If not you vastly increase your cance of blowing a spark plug. If that is the case you will get to introduce yourself to Timeserts.

Only pain about swapping the intake is taking everything off and putting it back on.

i also installed new 13" Brembo slotted rotors (zinc plated) and EBC ceramic pads in the front. talk about a PITA that was. the pads were too thick and wouldnt fit over the rotor when loaded into the caliper. so i had to grind off about 1mm total from both the inner and outer pads to get them to fit over the rotor. other than that, the new brakes feel great too, and stopping is better than with the last set of 13" Brembo knockoffs.

Then you did something wrong or bought the worng pads.
There should be absolutly no reason to grind on the pads. Also I am going to guess that you ruined your pads by introducing a new compund (your grinding disc) to the pads. Sure you will still stop but not to the effect thatthey should.
When I did mine I had to bleed my brakes much much more than i expected to fully expand the caliper to make the pads fit.

Next time may I suggest reading directions. It makes a large difference.

 

[DerekStangGT]

i think its the PI intake manifold with the aluminum crossover

yeah, i had the PI intake with the plastic runner in the front. i guess the updated OEM has the aluminum runner.

i did the same thing last week.
Very simple install. I bought the new alternator bracket though. I also used auto lites gapped to .054.

You state you didn't read any directions. I sure hope you took into account propper torque specs when it came to the manifold. It needs to be torqued in a certain order to 18lbs
http://www.modulardepot.com/diagrams/intake.gif
.

yeah, i took into account proper tq specs. its just like any other manifold (intake/exhaust) or head you install. start from the inside and criss cross outward. not rocket science. and the manifold came with a piece of paper saying tq specs were 18 lbs.

I also hope you used the proper torque specs for your plugs. If not you vastly increase your cance of blowing a spark plug. If that is the case you will get to introduce yourself to Timeserts.

this aint my first rodeo

Only pain about swapping the intake is taking everything off and putting it back on.


Then you did something wrong or bought the worng pads.
There should be absolutly no reason to grind on the pads. Also I am going to guess that you ruined your pads by introducing a new compund (your grinding disc) to the pads. Sure you will still stop but not to the effect thatthey should.
When I did mine I had to bleed my brakes much much more than i expected to fully expand the caliper to make the pads fit.

Next time may I suggest reading directions. It makes a large difference.

how does grinding off a layer of brake pad material ruin the pads? im curious.

 

[1992 2.3LX]

how does grinding off a layer of brake pad material ruin the pads? im curious.

A brake pad especially premium brake pads are made to specifications. Therefore they take into account the compounds that are used to create the pad.

I am going to guess you used some sort of sanding disc. Your most common sanding disc is made of aluminium oxidie.
Anytime you use a grinding disc you introduce the grinding discs materials (aluminium oxide) into what you are grinding and vice versa.

In turn by sanding it down you introduced aluminium oxide into the compund of your brakepads. So you have no introduced a new agent to your brake pads.

Sure your car will still stop but essentially you have ruined a premium pair of pads because you did not take the time to install them right.