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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Upgrading a 94GT

  • Thread starter Thread starter V8u
  • Start date Start date Aug 31, 2004

V8u

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
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Memphis
Aug 31, 2004
#1
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #1
I was wondering if I could get some input regarding my new project, overhauling my "for the most part stock" 94GT convertible with 117K miles on the odometer. I recently discussed some upgrades with a friend from BB&T racing (www.bbandtracing.com), and we decided to overhaul the drivetrain and a few other pieces of new gear here and there.

The list of upgrades suggested

302 Ford GT-40 Engine Ford Part Number M-6007-XB3
Vortech S-Trim
Trickflow 5.0L Street EFI Intake
BBK 70mm TB
70mm Pro M mass air meter, '93 model with conical filter
Tremec TKO 500 4615
BBK 255lph fuel pump
BBK X-pipe w/cats
BBK Ceramic coated shorty headers
FRPP Aluminum driveshaft
Fluidyne radiator
10th ann. Cobra brakes w/slotted and drilled rotors
24lb injectors

The car has the following already

King Cobra clutch
MAC cat back
FRPP 3.73 gears
Smog pump eliminator kit

any suggestions or something i need to add or be sure of before ordering these new parts would be appreciated...
 
C

CopMagnet5oh

New Member
Apr 15, 2004
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0
Aug 31, 2004
#2
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #2
gt-40 engine doesnt have forged pistons which are much better.
Mass air should be bigger than TB, go with 75mm or 80mm.
get LTs instead of shorties
leave your radiator if its in ok shape
get fuel pressure regulator

- Kons
 

Rootus

Officially Addicted
Feb 8, 2003
6,659
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Portland, Oregon
Aug 31, 2004
#3
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #3
For what you are going to pay for that crate engine, I would suggest a different path. Pick up a production shortblock for $1250 and put the TFS street kit on it for $2050. It's around the same price as the GT40 crate engine, but it will make more power. Or even better, get a base bullet DSS 306 for the shortblock.

The rest of your list looks reasonable enough to me.

Other suggestions:

- Do not go with LT's unless you have no emissions testing where you are.
- Plan on a chip, chances are you'll need it (and even if you don't, it's nice).
- I would skip the adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
- Cross drilled and slotted rotors are just eye candy.
- You might want to have a smog pump if you are going to run cats.
- Put some budget aside for suspension upgrades. Increasing the horsepower significantly will expose all of the problems with a stock 100k+ mile suspension.

Dave
 
C

CopMagnet5oh

New Member
Apr 15, 2004
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Aug 31, 2004
#4
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #4
ok, he just said he has smog pump eliminator kit, which means he has no pollution testing, go with long tubes, nothing wrong with them, most of the people still pass Etest even if u had to do it.you'll get more power with LTs.
having air pump if he has cats that dont have air injection ... ok. a waste.
a chip - maybe, better if he gets a tweecer.
with a blower he will need a fuel press reg, whichever way u look at it.

- Kons
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Aug 31, 2004
#5
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #5
HairyCanary said:
- Cross drilled and slotted rotors are just eye candy.
Click to expand...

I disagree with the cross-drilled & slotted rotors. I installed a set on all 4 wheels, and I definitely noticed a difference when braking. I don't get brake fade anymore, and my stopping distance has shortened. I believe I lost a touch of initial grip, due to losing the surface area over the holes/slots. But the overall braking has definitely improved.

My rotors are actually dimple-drilled - check out <a href="http://www.raceconcepts.net/rotor101.php" target="rc">this website</a> for a description. I bought my rotors from them.
 

Rootus

Officially Addicted
Feb 8, 2003
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Portland, Oregon
Aug 31, 2004
#6
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #6
CopMagnet5oh said:
ok, he just said he has smog pump eliminator kit, which means he has no pollution testing
Click to expand...
But he has cats, and unless you want to destroy them keep the air injection.

go with long tubes, nothing wrong with them, most of the people still pass Etest even if u had to do it.
Click to expand...
If it's hot enough where you live, and you take a good joyride down the freeway first, LT's won't hurt you. If it's cold outside, you're likely to fail the idle sniffer test.

you'll get more power with LTs.
Click to expand...
A little bit, yes, but IMHO it's probably not worth the hassle. The LT's do kill a lot of the drone, that's the primary attraction in my opinion.

a chip - maybe, better if he gets a tweecer.
Click to expand...
A TwEECer *is* a chip, the difference is that you can program it yourself rather than paying someone else.

with a blower he will need a fuel press reg, whichever way u look at it.
Click to expand...
Not unless he's running undersized injectors and no chip. With a proper tune (something you should have if you're going to run boost) and injectors that are big enough for the task, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a waste of money.

Dave
 

deadly97snake

Founding Member
Mar 21, 2001
592
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0
Manchester, NH
Aug 31, 2004
#7
  • Aug 31, 2004
  • #7
It may be small but with the S-trim and a H/C/I I would not go with 24# injectors. I would suggest 42#ers.
 
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