Upper and Lower Control arms a good Investment???

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
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38
Akron, OH
I dont understand how new upper and lower control arms help your launches. I mean i know thats why they make them, but from what i understand aftermarket arms are stiffer than stock. Now i thought weight transfer to the rear was helpful?? I just need help understanding how they help lauches. Im thinking about getting some for this winter along with a 3000 stall to get killer launches, they worth the money???
 
They stop body twist,increase handling,plant tires more firmly,control the axles location without binding,reduces wheelhop, and they put more of your power to the ground stronger. I got factory 5(southside) upper and lowers on mine and i love em, hope my input helps ya :nice:
 
Actually the stock arms themselves are really thin metal and have no strength to them at all....notice how they're in a "U" shape. Most aftermarket control arms use thicker metal, as well as a box shape....plus they use polyurethane bushings which are way stiffer than the stock rubber. To sum it up, aftermarket control arms allow the rear end to stay planted on the ground.....with stock ones, they can flex and one side of the diff can actually not be planted on the ground under launches or hard acceleration.
 
I personally think aftermarket u/l's that have the same design as factory ones, SUCK!!! They dont help crap. They might help if you have a slightly modded engine, but they are worthless with a stroker or blower motor. For real traction get some good stuff thats actually redesigned and moves the mounting points around for better rearend geometry. Although the aftermarket stuff is much stiffer, the design of the mustang rearend sucks for traction and all they do is copy that but make it stiffer.
 
Lowers are good.. But I completely trust Maximum Motorsports in saying upper with poly bushing will cause a binding in the rear end. Stick with the FMS uppers or stock uppers... any (or most) aftermarket lowers will help a whole bunch.
 
For the uppers you want to retain the factory rubber bushings on the diff side of the arm.
When you load the rear with power it wants to pitch forward.
The rubber bushings in the diff ears allow it to flex, where as a stiff bushing doesn't flex as much and increases the stress on the torque box which leads to it tearing with continued abuse.

Steeda aluminum non-adjustables for both upper and lower (3-piece bushings) ...
I took advice from Jamie on these forums and they are as good as he said they would be :hail2:
Way better than your run of the mill $200 pairs ... not that the $200 sets are bad, but you get what you pay for :nice: