Maybe on a new one, but I have seen at least a half-dozen where the cap came loose in the hole in the arm, and started working back and forth. As you point out yourself:
Age doesn't matter, either, I first saw this on a 4-year old 67 Cougar. Once that cap comes loose, your tab or bolt tricks are useless. And on a car where there is insufficient maintenance, the shaft itself can wear enough that the threads don't hold. A shaft "worn almost half way through" is easliy bad enough to experience this failure. The tightness of the cap in the arm won't hold it, it's not even threaded there. A few tack welds, on the other hand, lock it down. You saying they don't?
Just under 400,000. You callin' me a liar? Don't be a politician here, use the word. I warn you now, I have all my paperwork back to 1978. I drove that car every day from 1973 to 1997.
Not likely. But who cares?
"Wrong"? I fail to see how my habit of directly tacking the cap is "wrong" when your welding a tab by the flat is right. My way it cannot shift or come loose.
And I will continue to offer my opinions, they are worth every penny paid for them, as are yours. You don't like them, show where they are wrong. You can start with why tack welding the caps is wrong. Then people can decide for themselves. I'm certainly not making any money here, so I don't really care. It's an idle pastime for me.
Some vendors have them for about $27.00, these were all imported. I did not see any for $23.50 anywhere. Moog at $40.00 was the best price I could find.
Hey Mr. OpenTracker, Could we discuss the above postulation?
When the Upper Control Arm Bushing Shaft gets some miles on it, the wear GAP happens to occur on the TOP of the Shaft, as it is the BOTTOM of the Upper Control Arm Bushing Shaft that sustains the wear!
The Shaft is connected to the Vehicle, and is bearing DOWN on the BOTTOM of the inside diameters of the 1.25" Hex Caps.
The 1.25" Hex Caps are attached to the Front Suspension and are resisting the DOWNWARD pressure of gravity pulling DOWN on the Upper Control Arm Bushing Shaft.
If one is going to cut a Grease Groove to give the Grease a path to go anywhere other than through the GAP between the TOP of the Shaft and the TOP of the inside diameter of the 1.25" Hex Cap, it should be cut across the threads on the BOTTOM of the Upper Control Arm Bushing Shaft.
Respectfully submitted.
Warmest regards,
JCAllison, caretaker of Ms. American 3.14159, the ONLY 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor that Google finds on the WHOLE World Wide Web.
Hey Mr. Sparx,
Am the caretaker of Ms. American 3.14159, the ONLY 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor that Google finds on the WHOLE World Wide Web.
The old Gal has been in the Allison Family since she was NEW. She is just 2,000 miles short of having 300,000 miles on her.
She is presently undergoing a complete Front Suspension Rebuild, replacing of all the hard and soft Hydraulic Brake Line, and rebuild of all four Brake Assemblies.
When she starts, she puts up 80 PSI of oil pressure at fast idle, and 60 PSI at curb idle. She doesn't smoke, or use oil.
With all that said, would like to tell you that she has had but ONE oil change in her lifetime, and that was when her mighty 390 FE Engine was rebuilt at 167,310 miles. We put in NEW oil after the rebuild.
I personally rebuilt the Engine at Ernie's Motors in Houston, Texas. When I removed the Engine from the Engine Bay, put on an Engine Stand, and removed the Valve Covers and Oil Pan, the comment of the mechanics at Ernie's Motors was: "This engine has just been rebuilt!"
The interior of the Engine was perfectly clean! Not a bit of sludge anywhere. Other than a normal patina, the parts all looked BRAND NEW.
There is a secret to how this is done.
Anyway, hope you have a GREAT day.
Take excellent care.
JC