This happened to me about a month ago check and make sure your radiator cap is good! It stumped me till I realized it was just the cap and grabbed the one off my flare side and it was getting to temp just fine!I’m having issues with overheating after installing a new pump and stat. I’ve burped the car twice but the temperature still creeps up to 230 and above. While checking the car I noticed that the car was above operating temp but the upper (not lower) hose was still cold. I’m suspecting a faulty thermostat. Would it be wise to go after that first? Eventually the hose got hot but way after the engine reached beyond operating temp.
Yup I tested mine and it seems to be opening too late for my liking. I tested a 180 tstat and it seems to be opening fast so I’m gonna install that today.T stat might be a bit slow. I had this issue with a brand new Motorcraft tstat. Would take forever to open and often the car would shoot past operating temp before it finally opened and then cool down.
Was annoying so I eventually swapped it out for an aftermarket 180 stat. The aftermarket unit actually opens at 185-190 degrees which is perfectly fine by me.
I make it a habit to now check my stats in a pot of boiling water with a temp probe. The Motorcraft 192 wasn’t opening until 205 degrees (which is still fine) and then would stay opened at 190. I just didn’t like that behavior personally.
Is air in the cooling system a possibility? I tried a new thermostat that opens when it should and the car is having the same issue. The upper radiator hose was still cold at operating temperature. Obviously coolant has a circulation problem. I have ran the car with the radiator cap off but can air still be stuck in the system? Mind you I didn’t jack the front of the car up while burping the system and I haven’t seen coolant rise up at operating temperature like it normally has previously.Did you install the t-stat in the correct direction? Pull the t-stat like Limp said and you can also put it in a pan of water with a thermometer and see when and if it opens by heating the water on a stove.
I installed one also with the hole already there. Do I rule out trapped air completely then?I typically drill a 1/8" hole in the flange of the t-stat and put that at the 12 o'clock position when it is installed. This will burp just about all the air out of the system. Some t-stats have a built in bleeder but I have not installed one to say whether or not they work as advertised or not. This is not my picture but you get the idea:
This is how we learn.......Update: either the issue was a lack of coolant or trapped air in the system. After running the car and continuously filling coolant, the temperature gauge dropped to 180 and stayed there. I took it for a drive and no issues anymore. I think it may have been more lack of coolant since I filled two bottles of it, although the car puked some out eventually. Feel dumb for not considering that sooner, but I’m happy now that I can drive it. Thanks everyone.
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