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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

upr or pypes stainless?

  • Thread starter Thread starter westgastang5.0Coyote
  • Start date Start date Feb 9, 2010
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fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
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Feb 10, 2010
#21
  • Feb 10, 2010
  • #21
westgastang4.6 said:
It's good to see a pypes representative responding and it speaks volumes about their customer service. Well either way I can't go wrong.
Click to expand...

customer service these days is somewhat of a rare thing.

hats off to chris @ pypes for trying to help with any issues
 

westgastang5.0Coyote

15 Year Member
Sep 24, 2008
192
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Temple,Ga
Feb 10, 2010
#22
  • Feb 10, 2010
  • #22
So if I order the upr will I need to get a gasket on the passenger side or is that just with the pypes?
 

fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
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Feb 10, 2010
#23
  • Feb 10, 2010
  • #23
westgastang4.6 said:
So if I order the upr will I need to get a gasket on the passenger side or is that just with the pypes?
Click to expand...

im pretty sure you'll have to get that gasket with any brand but lets see what he says. if so, its like $14 i think
 

pypesexhaust

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#24
  • Feb 10, 2010
  • #24
westgastang4.6 said:
So if I order the upr will I need to get a gasket on the passenger side or is that just with the pypes?
Click to expand...

This is a little complicated.

On the modular motor, the RH manifold has the thin metal gasket. That can and should be re-used unless it looks bad. They hold up well. To my knowledge, no exhaust company includes this gasket with their midpipes. They are available from Walker and Ford i believe.

On the LH side the metal sleeve is needed and provided by Pypes for Pypes products. The UPR X-pipe (although produced by Pypes) is totally designed by UPR and I do not know if the sleeve is needed or included in their kit. You should contact UPR for the answer.
 

pypesexhaust

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#25
  • Feb 10, 2010
  • #25
Sorry for somewhat jacking the thread but it is still very relevant to the topic starter's questions and concerns.
 

Mustang92

SN's #1 1%er
Jun 6, 2001
6,467
2
79
South Florida
Feb 10, 2010
#26
  • Feb 10, 2010
  • #26
westgastang4.6 said:
I've recently decided I want a vrs x pipe to go with my longtubes when I get them but until then i need to make a decision on x pipes. It's between an aluminized upr x pipe for $159 or a stainless steel x pipe from pypes for $189. Give me your thoughts on upr vs. pypes?
Click to expand...

Just to clarify UPR does not make a short X-pipe to fit longtubes. UPR X-pipes are for shorty or stock headers.

Bill
 

westgastang5.0Coyote

15 Year Member
Sep 24, 2008
192
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Feb 11, 2010
#27
  • Feb 11, 2010
  • #27
Yeah i'm aware of that bill. But until I get my longtubes i'm going to go with the upr thanks for the info. So how's the mach coming along?
 

westgastang5.0Coyote

15 Year Member
Sep 24, 2008
192
3
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Temple,Ga
Feb 11, 2010
#28
  • Feb 11, 2010
  • #28
pypesexhaust said:
This is a little complicated.

On the modular motor, the RH manifold has the thin metal gasket. That can and should be re-used unless it looks bad. They hold up well. To my knowledge, no exhaust company includes this gasket with their midpipes. They are available from Walker and Ford i believe.

On the LH side the metal sleeve is needed and provided by Pypes for Pypes products. The UPR X-pipe (although produced by Pypes) is totally designed by UPR and I do not know if the sleeve is needed or included in their kit. You should contact UPR for the answer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info chris and I will give them a ring.
 
B

brandont

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Feb 9, 2009
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Feb 12, 2010
#29
  • Feb 12, 2010
  • #29
fiveoho said:
PM SENT


Please elaborate more on the different versions of studs. i think this may be part of my problem (along with no sleeve). by chance, do you know a part number on a generic stud?

also, the clamps....are they meant to be REALLY tightened? with a air gun?


+1 for pypes for customer service. thanks for trying to help me/us figure out these issues!
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late response,....

Some production cars came with a shouldered stud (portion that isn't threaded) on the drivers side exhaust manifold and may prevent the flange from being torqued down.

You can go to any auto parts store and get a M10-1.5x65MM threaded stud made by HELP or MOTORMITE. PART# 03102

Brandon T
 
4

4tun8

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Feb 12, 2010
#30
  • Feb 12, 2010
  • #30
give me BBK or give me death.
 

fiveoho

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Apr 28, 2005
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Feb 12, 2010
#31
  • Feb 12, 2010
  • #31
brandont said:
Sorry for the late response,....

Some production cars came with a shouldered stud (portion that isn't threaded) on the drivers side exhaust manifold and may prevent the flange from being torqued down.

You can go to any auto parts store and get a M10-1.5x65MM threaded stud made by HELP or MOTORMITE. PART# 03102

Brandon T
Click to expand...


thanks for the info brandon.

what do i need to do about the sleeve or how do i go about getting one?

also, the clamps - dont be afraid to REALLY tighten them?
 

fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
1,958
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Feb 12, 2010
#32
  • Feb 12, 2010
  • #32
4tun8 said:
give me BBK or give me death.
Click to expand...

then what happens when your bbk has issues? hope they have good customer service too.
 

pypesexhaust

Premium Sponsor
Nov 12, 2003
137
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Hatfield PA
Feb 14, 2010
#33
  • Feb 14, 2010
  • #33
fiveoho said:
thanks for the info brandon.

what do i need to do about the sleeve or how do i go about getting one?

also, the clamps - dont be afraid to REALLY tighten them?
Click to expand...


clamps and sleeve are already on the way.
 

fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
1,958
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Feb 14, 2010
#34
  • Feb 14, 2010
  • #34
pypesexhaust said:
clamps and sleeve are already on the way.
Click to expand...

i REALLY appreciate it. if my car has the shouldered stud, should i remove that one and install the one listed above and use the sleeve? or will just the sleeve solve it?


thank you again!
 

pypesexhaust

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Nov 12, 2003
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Feb 15, 2010
#35
  • Feb 15, 2010
  • #35
fiveoho said:
i REALLY appreciate it. if my car has the shouldered stud, should i remove that one and install the one listed above and use the sleeve? or will just the sleeve solve it?


thank you again!
Click to expand...

Do both just to be safe.
 

fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
1,958
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Mar 2, 2010
#36
  • Mar 2, 2010
  • #36
pypesexhaust said:
Do both just to be safe.
Click to expand...

recieved the parts and i really appreciate it.

well after drenching both studs in pb blaster, one came out fairly easy with a stud puller. the other did not. pb blaster, stud puller, vice grips, heat....nothing. ended up breaking the stud and had to drill it out. had to use a bolt and nut since the threads were trashed. also used the insert inside the pipe. everything seem to seal up good but the car ticks now at idle. ticking is coming from under the car. does it in neutral, in gear. with and without the clutch depressed. ticking still there under revs but doesnt seem to change, just stay constant. cant really hear it when i lift the hood up. under the car while its on the lift, its very noticeable. also very noticeable with the car on the ground standing beside it. its not overwhelming loud, but noticeable. the clamps with this x pipe just doesnt seem to work well. ended up wrapping the joints with exhaust wrap and using the clamps over that. seem nearly stop the small leaks there but im not sure if i still have a leak or a different problem. before we started, the ticking was there but very very faint. quite a bit louder now. oddly, it sounds like the noise is coming from the bellhousing but im not sure how much sense that makes. can the tranny (5 speed) or a clutch tick? im wondering if i have a small leak i cannot find and its echoing off the bellhousing

any ideas?


thank you again for your help.
 

RedDaemon

10 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Atlanta, GA
Mar 2, 2010
#37
  • Mar 2, 2010
  • #37
brandont said:
Sorry for the late response,....

Some production cars came with a shouldered stud (portion that isn't threaded) on the drivers side exhaust manifold and may prevent the flange from being torqued down.
Click to expand...

i had this on my car...that really got me pissed i brought it down to a shop and had them cut it off. i have had my aftermarket midpipe on it ever since w/o a problem
 

D-BOI

Member
Mar 26, 2009
596
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Mar 2, 2010
#38
  • Mar 2, 2010
  • #38
why not just go with a bbk
 

fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
1,958
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TN
Mar 2, 2010
#39
  • Mar 2, 2010
  • #39
D-BOI said:
why not just go with a bbk
Click to expand...

couple of reasons. i already have the pypes and am really tired of fooling around with exhaust. dont really wanna have to remove that one, order another, install it and hope it doesnt leak. pypes has been helpful. nothing hacks me off more than a company that doesnt support their product. bbk may also have good customer service, then again they may not.

theres a good chance ill have a different mustang someday. the next one, i may try BBK. depends if i can figure this one out.
 
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