You keep posting while i'm typing, stop stealing my thunder!42 lbs with the vacuum disconnected is where I would like you to be
V3 Install Under Way Finally
- Thread starter JD1964
- Start date
I'm leaving the office to go grab the kiddo... commence with saving the day hahaYou keep posting while i'm typing, stop stealing my thunder!
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I say just go with 42#'ers. I have 30# on my NA and will probably swap them to 42.... I don't have the chart handy but even with 30#'s and a power adder, you are probably maxing them out at around 350-375 hp. The safe max duty cycle on a N/A motor is much higher than with a power adder, which is why you need the larger injectors. YOu could probably get away with 30's if you bump up the FP, but unless you already have the 30#'s.......... get the 42#
Stock 302, GT40, stock cam, 1.7 rockers, headers. Thats it for the engine mods other than the V3 install under way. The 30lb'ers came recommended by a trusted source. You probably know him. I have a PLX wideband 02 so I'll be able to see the mix and bump the pressure if needed. I have a 30lb calibrated MAF and an SCT chip both setup by the same person who recommend the 30's. Everything matches, should be killer!!!
Oh, I have boost module for the PLX gauge too.
Oh, I have boost module for the PLX gauge too.
Yes, I have a chip with a preliminary tune already programmed. So, this means I leave the FMU alone?
Custom tune mean you can eliminate the fmu
For a GT40 top end and 6ish lbs of boost 30lb injectors will be fine, on the other hand aluminum heads and 10lbs of boost 42's are the ticket
For a GT40 top end and 6ish lbs of boost 30lb injectors will be fine, on the other hand aluminum heads and 10lbs of boost 42's are the ticket
Kit instructions show the alternator stay connecting to the smog pump. I previously removed my smog pump. So now, how do I secure the alternator? Do I have to put the smog pump back in and just skip running the belt around it? Is there an option to secure the alt without having to put the smog pump back in?
You will need to either put the smog pump back in and leave it disconnected or use a smog pump delete idler.
Looks like I need to run a pulley there no matter what. Look at the diagram. If you try and omit running a belt around a smog pump pulley, the belt route will interfere with the water pump pulley. So I'm shopping for a smog pump idler. Im surely not going to drive a smog pump that's serving no purpose.
Next question is, which smog pump idler assembly has the threaded boss built in to accept the alt stay bracket that came in the V3 kit? Pictures online dont always show exactly what you get if you know what I mean.
Next question is, which smog pump idler assembly has the threaded boss built in to accept the alt stay bracket that came in the V3 kit? Pictures online dont always show exactly what you get if you know what I mean.
Don't ditch the fmu just yet, if and I say IF the injectors max out you can run the fmu with a small disc. This will allow the injectors to act bigger and get you by until you get the 42#.
Fwiw, I have a similar setup but all ported with e303 cam. Positive displacement SC remote mounted running 6# of boost. Vortec says use 8:1 disc I have to use the 12:1 disc to get a safe 11-12 afr on the wide band.
I'm not tuned yet just a back yard build.
Fwiw, I have a similar setup but all ported with e303 cam. Positive displacement SC remote mounted running 6# of boost. Vortec says use 8:1 disc I have to use the 12:1 disc to get a safe 11-12 afr on the wide band.
I'm not tuned yet just a back yard build.
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