valve adjustment question...

blascrw

Member
Aug 19, 2004
191
1
16
Opelika, AL
OK I have this miss that I have been unable to correct :bang: ...someone suggested that my valves may be mis-adjusted...

How do I readjust the valves???

stock 65 289 bored .030 and heads done...

I saw these instructions from MustangSteve:

Adjusting Valves With ADJUSTABLE Rocker Arms
I like to set them with the engine off,to avoid that smoke and oil stains on the driveway. Start by removing all the spark plugs. Get a 15/16" socket and ratchet to turn the crank with. Start from the front and work towards the rear, one bank at a time (Yes, I know you can go set some by the numbers in the book, but it is simpler and quicker to just rotate the crank and get it over with and not wonder which ones you skipped) Loosen ALL the rocker nuts a few turns. Start with #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke (that is the next TDC rotation AFTER the intake valve opens) Grab the pushrod between your thumb and first finger and rotate it as you tighten the adjusting nut until you feel the rotating pushrod get tight. You want to achieve zero lash and stop turning the nut as soon as the pushrod just gets a bit tight. Do not tighten it so it compresses the piston in the lifter. Then add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn (use the 3/4 if you don't want to ever have to open up the engine and do this again) Then do the same on the next valve in line on the same cylinder. Then rotate the engine until the next cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. repeat the above procedure for the rest of the engine, just going down the rows one at a time. The entire job takes about 15 minutes. Then throw the valve cover gaskets in the trash can, smear some RTV UltraBlack on the squeaky clean valve cover flanges and tighten them down tight.

Is this the method I should use???

I have read the Chiltons manual and another manual and they are vague and not too clear to me...

Thanks...


Ron
 
His process is lacking a few details. Overall it's right on, but instead of going down the line on each side, start like he said at #1, then rotate the crank 90 degrees, then adjust the next cylinder in the firing order ( firing order is either 15426378 or 13726548, depending on what cam you have) do each cylinder in the firing order one at a time, while rotating the crank 90 degrees for each in turn. The crank rotates two complete revolutions for each complete firing order sequence ( 8 cylinders) I wouldn't also recommend his gasket suggestion either, I'm partial to real gaskets, too much sealant can result in stray lumps ending up in the oilpan and pickup screen. I fanything just apply just enough sealant to glue the gaskets to the valve covers, then when and if you remove them for any reason,they'll stay glued to the valve covers
 
One more thing I forgot to add, his instuctions are for hydraulic cams, not for solid lifters, if you happen to have solid lifters, you will need to adjust the lash using a feeler gauge , inserted between the rocker and valve stem tip. Lash for solids usually is set at around .015 to .020 depending on whether the motor is hot or cold, tighter while hot, wider when cold.
 
I do not like what you just described.

Set the engine to TDC. Pull your distributor cap and the rotor should be at one o'clock. Look at the distributor lobe and the points. That should be number one. Adjust #1 valves. Turn the engine until the points get to the next lobe on the distributor. That will be #5 ETC>>15426389 in thet order.

Buy gaskets!!!!

Oops. D. Hearne beat me!!
 
Thank you

Yes I already have new gaskets...

I will take the advice and do the cylinders in firing order...It was just his opinion it was easier to do going down each bank so you don't miss any...

Thank you for the info...

I plan to do this as soon as I find a little time...

Thanks,

Ron