OK I have this miss that I have been unable to correct
How do I readjust the valves???
stock 65 289 bored .030 and heads done...
I saw these instructions from MustangSteve:
Adjusting Valves With ADJUSTABLE Rocker Arms
I like to set them with the engine off,to avoid that smoke and oil stains on the driveway. Start by removing all the spark plugs. Get a 15/16" socket and ratchet to turn the crank with. Start from the front and work towards the rear, one bank at a time (Yes, I know you can go set some by the numbers in the book, but it is simpler and quicker to just rotate the crank and get it over with and not wonder which ones you skipped) Loosen ALL the rocker nuts a few turns. Start with #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke (that is the next TDC rotation AFTER the intake valve opens) Grab the pushrod between your thumb and first finger and rotate it as you tighten the adjusting nut until you feel the rotating pushrod get tight. You want to achieve zero lash and stop turning the nut as soon as the pushrod just gets a bit tight. Do not tighten it so it compresses the piston in the lifter. Then add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn (use the 3/4 if you don't want to ever have to open up the engine and do this again) Then do the same on the next valve in line on the same cylinder. Then rotate the engine until the next cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. repeat the above procedure for the rest of the engine, just going down the rows one at a time. The entire job takes about 15 minutes. Then throw the valve cover gaskets in the trash can, smear some RTV UltraBlack on the squeaky clean valve cover flanges and tighten them down tight.
Is this the method I should use???
I have read the Chiltons manual and another manual and they are vague and not too clear to me...
Thanks...
Ron
How do I readjust the valves???
stock 65 289 bored .030 and heads done...
I saw these instructions from MustangSteve:
Adjusting Valves With ADJUSTABLE Rocker Arms
I like to set them with the engine off,to avoid that smoke and oil stains on the driveway. Start by removing all the spark plugs. Get a 15/16" socket and ratchet to turn the crank with. Start from the front and work towards the rear, one bank at a time (Yes, I know you can go set some by the numbers in the book, but it is simpler and quicker to just rotate the crank and get it over with and not wonder which ones you skipped) Loosen ALL the rocker nuts a few turns. Start with #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke (that is the next TDC rotation AFTER the intake valve opens) Grab the pushrod between your thumb and first finger and rotate it as you tighten the adjusting nut until you feel the rotating pushrod get tight. You want to achieve zero lash and stop turning the nut as soon as the pushrod just gets a bit tight. Do not tighten it so it compresses the piston in the lifter. Then add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn (use the 3/4 if you don't want to ever have to open up the engine and do this again) Then do the same on the next valve in line on the same cylinder. Then rotate the engine until the next cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. repeat the above procedure for the rest of the engine, just going down the rows one at a time. The entire job takes about 15 minutes. Then throw the valve cover gaskets in the trash can, smear some RTV UltraBlack on the squeaky clean valve cover flanges and tighten them down tight.
Is this the method I should use???
I have read the Chiltons manual and another manual and they are vague and not too clear to me...
Thanks...
Ron