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Valve stem tip tap?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Coolen
  • Start date Start date Apr 6, 2025
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Coolen

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I've read through a lot on valve train. It's still fairly new to me. I have a HO 302 non roller. It has had a slight tap since I put the motor in the car. I ended up changing out lifters and no change. I dug into it some more today, swapped out pushrods. And rockers and it still taps. Would it be safe to say that the valve stem is too worn? They are non adjustable rockers.

I did notice with the engine running as I slacked off the mounting bolt, and started snugging it up, it would stop tapping for a few seconds then tap again. I could go a bit tighter it would stop tapping as I am turning the bolt. Then start tapping again.

Listening with a live of hose the tap is on the valve stem if that makes any difference.

Thank you
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Lifter is what I would guess, pedestal mount rockers, right?
 
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Coolen

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General karthief said:
Lifter is what I would guess, pedestal mount rockers, right?
Click to expand...
Yep, no adjustment. I do have other lifters in the garage new. I really thought I changed that one last year. But I guess it's not impossible for it to be bad out of the box. I tried pushing down on the lifter but it didn't seem to want to collapse any.
 
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Coolen

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Is there a way to confirm it isn't a lobe on the cam? I forgot to mention as far as piling goes there's certainly no shortage. Definitely equal to the rest of them.

I don't mind changing the lifter. But if I could confirm it wasn't an issue that lies deeper I'd feel better about taking it apart again.

Thanks
 

limp

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How did you figure out your pushrod length??
 
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Coolen

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limp said:
How did you figure out your pushrod length??
Click to expand...
I ordered the rods based on what that engine called for. I just went out to the garage and grabbed a new lifter and I'm going to check part numbers. Also today I tried the original pushrod that I removed last year with no change
 

rednotch

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Coolen said:
Yep, no adjustment. I do have other lifters in the garage new. I really thought I changed that one last year. But I guess it's not impossible for it to be bad out of the box. I tried pushing down on the lifter but it didn't seem to want to collapse any.
Click to expand...
Probably need to shim one or two rockers....
 
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nickyb

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Did you break the cam in when the engine was first started? This is done so the lifters wear to the cam. If not and you wiped out a cam lobe then new lifters won't do
 

Noobz347

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When you go to replace the lifters, you can visually check the lobes.


Coolen said:
I did notice with the engine running as I slacked off the mounting bolt, and started snugging it up, it would stop tapping for a few seconds then tap again. I could go a bit tighter it would stop tapping as I am turning the bolt. Then start tapping again.
Click to expand...

This portion suggests a lifter problem to me.

If you had the wrong length pushrods, the whole thing would sound like a sewing machine.

rednotch said:
Probably need to shim one or two rockers....
Click to expand...
This too.
 
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Coolen

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nickyb said:
Did you break the cam in when the engine was first started? This is done so the lifters wear to the cam. If not and you wiped out a cam lobe then new lifters won't do
Click to expand...
When I originally put this engine in it sat in a garage for a number of years. I know the previous owner and it always ran strong. Then I got it, found a foxbody with no running gear in it and used this engine. When I noticed the tap I put a new lifter and push rod in. Heard it tapping late last summer and well, it's spring so I'm going to figure out how bad of an issue it is.
 
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Coolen

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rednotch said:
Probably need to shim one or two rockers....
Click to expand...
Sorry, again not very knowledgeable in this particular subject. However wouldn't shims increase the distance of whatever is actually tapping? Increase preload is what I'm looking for...isn't it?
 
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Coolen

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Noobz347 said:
When you go to replace the lifters, you can visually check the lobes.




This portion suggests a lifter problem to me.

If you had the wrong length pushrods, the whole thing would sound like a sewing machine.


This too.
Click to expand...
That's why put that detail in there as in was very noticeable and consistent as I repeated it over a few times to make sure it was quiet for a few seconds.
 

Noobz347

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Since it sounds like you're planning to replace the lifters anyway, you have an opportunity to check into shims and to look the cam lobes over.


Win Win
 
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Coolen

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Noobz347 said:
Since it sounds like you're planning to replace the lifters anyway, you have an opportunity to check into shims and to look the cam lobes over.


Win Win
Click to expand...
Wouldn't adding shims do the opposite of what I need to quiet it down?
 

limp

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Coolen said:
I ordered the rods based on what that engine called for. I just went out to the garage and grabbed a new lifter and I'm going to check part numbers. Also today I tried the original pushrod that I removed last year with no change
Click to expand...
So you didn't measure what pushrod length you needed??
 

limp

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Coolen said:
Wouldn't adding shims do the opposite of what I need to quiet it down?
Click to expand...
If your pushrods are too short then yes to your question....
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Ahh, dog.... Pop the lifter out, look at the bottom of the lifter, shiny smooth surface with a slight cup, and I mean slight, if excess wear, galling, or pitting toss it, look down the lifter bore (if you can) same with the cam lobe, flat tappet cams (non-roller) the lifter spins on the cam, why the bottom of the lifter is cupped (concave). Engineers
Go figure. How many lifter/cam lobes did they wipeout before they figured that out??? Anyway you get the idea show some pics of the lifter and cam lobe (if you can)
 
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Chuckster101

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#18
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Coolen said:
I've read through a lot on valve train. It's still fairly new to me. I have a HO 302 non roller. It has had a slight tap since I put the motor in the car. I ended up changing out lifters and no change. I dug into it some more today, swapped out pushrods. And rockers and it still taps. Would it be safe to say that the valve stem is too worn? They are non adjustable rockers.

I did notice with the engine running as I slacked off the mounting bolt, and started snugging it up, it would stop tapping for a few seconds then tap again. I could go a bit tighter it would stop tapping as I am turning the bolt. Then start tapping again.

Listening with a live of hose the tap is on the valve stem if that makes any difference.

Thank you
Click to expand...
Are these rocker shafts held with studs or bolts ? As I have had studs move and bolts stretch? Also for my old 4.99 they sell pushrods by the thousandths. I have the pushrod that you adjust then pull and measure when correct. Hey just guessing here , my 95 5.0 has roller cam and adj. rockers .
 
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Coolen

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So I decided to swap 302's. That will give me some time to remove the intake and look at the cam. I had a 302 I could put in. That part is done, and it's running, but the engine I used I believe has a standard rotation pump and I THINK the HO I removed had reverse rotation. Is there a way to easily solve this? The motor I used had a v belt setup and the removed motor is not. I can't wrap my head around this. Thoughts?

Thanks
 
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Coolen

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After removal of both pumps I came to the conclusion that I can run the water pump that was on the engine with that tap. The orientation of the water pump holes are the same. My question now is does any of the bolts pass through water passages or am I good there?

Thank you
 
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