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Valvetrain

  • Thread starter Thread starter NorCal66
  • Start date Start date Dec 19, 2003

NorCal66

New Member
Aug 12, 2003
334
0
0
Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA HOME
Dec 19, 2003
#1
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #1
Hey guys,
I'm weighting my options of what my next upgrade should be...im stuck between suspension, exhaust and valvetrain. It's lookin as suspension is gonna be too expensive so I'm either gonna go with an O/R H, 40 flows and new tips OR roller rockers, new springs and hardened pushrods. The exhaust is pretty straight forward if I decide to go that route, but I'm not too sure on the valvetrain. I have a Edel RPM cam, (224,234 .496, .520 hydraulic) and should have gotten new springs when I got it. I didn't because I couldn't afford it at the time, I'm just waitin for one of em to snap or something. How hard would it be to switch out the rockers, pushrods and springs? Can anyone give me a real brief run down on what tools, and steps I'll need to take? Any calibration involved or is it a pretty straightforward bolt on? Also, what preformance differences will there be between 1.5s, 1.6s, 1.7s? It's a street car, will 1.7s make it so it makes power even higher than it does now? The ratio of the rockers will affect the lenght of the pushrods as well correct?

I know it's a long post, with a lotta questions, I just want to know what I'm getting myself into before I buy the parts, I don't have enough money to pay for installation. Thanks a lot for your time guys.
 

66P51GT

New Member
Nov 7, 2003
721
1
0
Cerritos, CA
Dec 19, 2003
#2
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #2
If you are upgrading your pushrods and expect high RPMs, you will want to install Guide Plates. Guide plates require screw in studs. When you pull the heads for the stud tapping, have the machine shop install new springs that match your cam profile. This is probably as cheap as buying the tool and doing it yourself.

As for ratios... 1.6 is stock. 1.7 will provide additional lift. It shouldn't push the power band forward or back, it will simply open the valve further, allowing more air, and potentially more power. Anytime you modify your valvetrain, you will want to check that your pushrods are aligned properly over the valve stem.
 

NorCal66

New Member
Aug 12, 2003
334
0
0
Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA HOME
Dec 21, 2003
#3
  • Dec 21, 2003
  • #3
Thanks for the info 66P51GT, I'll probably go with the 1.7s then. Simply put, is replacing pushrods and rockers a fairly straightforward job, or are there a lot of adjustments, configurations to be done? (I know I really should pick up How To Rebuild Small Block Ford... but I need to order these parts soon) Thanks in advance.
 
6

67GTA-FB429

Member
Dec 15, 2003
777
0
16
Tri-Cities, Wa
Dec 22, 2003
#4
  • Dec 22, 2003
  • #4
Only do what you can afford do fully. In other words if you can afford a cam but not rockers, valves, and springs then don't do the cam. You will cost yourself more money in the long run by only doing projects halfway.
 
T

TOM B

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 15, 2002
872
1
16
Harrisburg Pa
Dec 22, 2003
#5
  • Dec 22, 2003
  • #5
Better check the valve to piston clearance before going to 1.7 lifters. If you dont want to remove the head then bring up # 1 to TDC then drop the valve down till it hits the piston then measure the travel, you want some clearance so dont go to close. I know its primitive but it works.
 
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