*VERY* dissapointed with my new FRPP King Cobra clutch
- Thread starter Craig Mack
- Start date
BlackBadGT said:Currently, I have a Ford Racing " Heavy Duty" clutch, or whatever they call it, installed. I bought the clutch kit for like $160, and dropped it and my car off at afriend's place while i went to work. A few hours later I got a cal at work: "dude, this new clutch is exactly the same as the stock one." The " heavy duty" kit had the EXACT SAME part numbers on the clutch disc and pressure plate as the ones that were being replaced (because they sucked!) I was pissed! The King cobra kit uses the same clutch disc, but a "more advanced" pressure plate. So, basically, you and I both upgraded to a stock clutch.
Someone sold you the wrong clutch......the HD and the KC are not the same and do not have the same part #'s as the OEM clutch. Please stop spreading bad information.
StangLou
Active Member
My Spec Stage II is just a hair tougher than stock to push in 
. I dont know why a Stage one would be so difficult. Even my g/f has no problems driving it. She test drove an '03 Cobra and almost had to lift herself off the seat to push that clutch in. I guess Im one of the few Spec success stories lol.
. I dont know why a Stage one would be so difficult. Even my g/f has no problems driving it. She test drove an '03 Cobra and almost had to lift herself off the seat to push that clutch in. I guess Im one of the few Spec success stories lol.I have nothing but good things to say about my King Cobra clutch. I beat on it leaving the shop after install, and I've been beating on it ever since. It's been through at least 75 passes at the strip, and occasional daily driver duty in the year that I've had it, and it still grips like new. Granted, I'm not pushing insane amounts of power, but the King Cobra handles what my car throws at it just fine.
john_324
New Member
D.K said:
So the King Cobra fits the 2002 with the 3650 transmission? I had thought it didn't...shows what I know...
Now let's see. I have 70,000 miles on my stock clutch and it still works fine. I'll probably never have more than 270rwhp. The only "abuse" the clutch ever sees is an occasional 5500-6000 rpm shift.
What is wrong with replacing it with the factory stocker?
What is wrong with replacing it with the factory stocker?
Snarf
New Member
Well from my understanding, for a guy in your situation [less than 300HP and easy shifts] the stocker is just fine. But once it wears out why not get a stronger and more resilient clutch that will last you even longer than a stocker for the same price as the stock unit?
Ok. I called the shop this morning and told them I was gonna head down there, and they said they'd take a look at it. So as I drove down there, the clutch grabs lower. I figure this is probably just becuase its cold and would start acting up again after it heats up. Well, after letting the engine warm up by driving a few miles, I punch it from a dig in 1st gear. As always, I go about 10 feet forward...but I credit this to the power of my SVT combined with the fast winding 4.10 gears. Anyways, as I shift into second, my entire rear end breaks loose and I go almost completely sideways. I let off the throttle and it twists hard back from the left to the right then straightens out. To make sure this wasnt a fluke, I punched it again from a 1st gear dig on a different road. This time, as I shift into 2nd, the tires just squeeled a bit, but I took off hard. This time I got to shift into third however, and It was weak. It didn't slip, but I felt nothing. No thrust forward when popping the clutch, just a mushy "bleh". So I tried it a couple more times, but this time shifting very slow and around 5500rpm and it held up.
So, I decided to turn off the road and head back home. The clutch didn't slip, and hooked into gear pretty well from first gear. I am still disappointed with the clamping force of this clutch, it is weak. But as long as its not SLIPPING out on me, I guess I will just see how things go. Maybe it got "glazed over" and got to "heal" overnight. I have heard of instances where people's clutches can get glazed over from a little abuse, but can be "healed" by easy driving and become fine. Maybe it had to go through a few heat cycles and sit overnight?
Whatever the case may be, the clutch is in "ok" operating order, and being that I cannot afford a new clutch I guess that's what I will have to accept. I'll have to watch my driving manners and realize that I can't really beat up on this clutch. Hopefully it will start clamping better, being that it only has ~1100 miles on it. I know that it has softened up significantly since when I first romped on it which doesn't make me feel good.
Anyways, keep posting your experiences with this clutch, and let me know. My next clutch will be at least a Spec stage II; I cant stand these soft, weak engagements.
So, I decided to turn off the road and head back home. The clutch didn't slip, and hooked into gear pretty well from first gear. I am still disappointed with the clamping force of this clutch, it is weak. But as long as its not SLIPPING out on me, I guess I will just see how things go. Maybe it got "glazed over" and got to "heal" overnight. I have heard of instances where people's clutches can get glazed over from a little abuse, but can be "healed" by easy driving and become fine. Maybe it had to go through a few heat cycles and sit overnight?
Whatever the case may be, the clutch is in "ok" operating order, and being that I cannot afford a new clutch I guess that's what I will have to accept. I'll have to watch my driving manners and realize that I can't really beat up on this clutch. Hopefully it will start clamping better, being that it only has ~1100 miles on it. I know that it has softened up significantly since when I first romped on it which doesn't make me feel good.
Anyways, keep posting your experiences with this clutch, and let me know. My next clutch will be at least a Spec stage II; I cant stand these soft, weak engagements.
craig, i don't know what to tell you other than stop being dumb with the clutch. if you think it is going out based on something they may have done then DO NOT get on it like that. also if you blow that clutch up with only 270rwhp range,stock tranny and just 4:10 gears then something is wrong with your driving habits. i mean you have to just be beating the hell out of it for it to go out so soon. if you kill this one then do all of the following:
1. spend real money for a clutch that is rated over 500hp (yes its going to chatter at first if not its whole life and grab hard as hell. and yes it may have stiff pedal effort)
2. buy all new flywheel, you can go with cheap nodular in your case.
3. have a FORD dealership with a mechanic that has much experience or PERFORMACE shop that does TONS of clutches.
3. use the WHOLE steeda adj kit i got you. not just some of it!
4. do GOOD break in time of 1000 miles driven in city conditions, don't leave ANYTHING to chance, let it get seated good.
5. vary your rpms at first 3000, then 4000, then 5000, then 6000 and only 7k when you get good miles on it.
6. yes you can take the rpms high but actually STOP for a second between gears and let clutch out SLOWLY.
7. no dumping of the clutch on street or strip for that time period.
8. if you have done all of this and you have a non faulty clutch you should enjoy it for a LONG time ,esp only having that little hp behind it.
one more thing, remember that your car isnt a drag car so be smart if you decide to use slicks PLEASE!
1. spend real money for a clutch that is rated over 500hp (yes its going to chatter at first if not its whole life and grab hard as hell. and yes it may have stiff pedal effort)
2. buy all new flywheel, you can go with cheap nodular in your case.
3. have a FORD dealership with a mechanic that has much experience or PERFORMACE shop that does TONS of clutches.
3. use the WHOLE steeda adj kit i got you. not just some of it!
4. do GOOD break in time of 1000 miles driven in city conditions, don't leave ANYTHING to chance, let it get seated good.
5. vary your rpms at first 3000, then 4000, then 5000, then 6000 and only 7k when you get good miles on it.
6. yes you can take the rpms high but actually STOP for a second between gears and let clutch out SLOWLY.
7. no dumping of the clutch on street or strip for that time period.
8. if you have done all of this and you have a non faulty clutch you should enjoy it for a LONG time ,esp only having that little hp behind it.
one more thing, remember that your car isnt a drag car so be smart if you decide to use slicks PLEASE!
BlackBadGT
New Member
Bad info??? Unless some clutch bandit crawled under my car and changed the stock clutch one night while I was sleeping, they're the same part. From my reading, the KC uses the same disc, but a different pressure plate designed to reduce pedel effort (personally, I like a little pressure). The box I purchased said "Heavy Duty" and "Ford Racing" on the box. The part numbers on the pressure plate and on the disc were the same. I bought the clutch kit from Jeg's, so it's not like i bought it off some guy 2nd hand that thought he might have a HD clutch. Bad info? This is first hand information not something I heard from a friend of a friend.JayC said:
twogts4us
15 Year Member
Craig Mack said:
Agreed! My wife's 01 had the Spec 2...pedal effort was killer for daily driving. King Cobra is in there now and is just slightly heavier than stock. Also has Steeda (red) steep ramp, quick release quad, adj cable and firewall adjuster.
Who in the world would want to wait 500-1000 miles to break in a clutch??
I've done many clutch jobs with differrent brands on different street & race cars, How can you put 500-1000 miles on a drag car before you go racing?
At that rate my 21/2 year old 02GT with 4k miles on it, It would take 6 months to break in
If the jobs done right thier should be no further problems! By the way, back in 1987 I had a 85GT with 95K miles on her before I had to change the clutch, with many dragstrip passes thrown in
I've done many clutch jobs with differrent brands on different street & race cars, How can you put 500-1000 miles on a drag car before you go racing?
At that rate my 21/2 year old 02GT with 4k miles on it, It would take 6 months to break in
If the jobs done right thier should be no further problems! By the way, back in 1987 I had a 85GT with 95K miles on her before I had to change the clutch, with many dragstrip passes thrown in
BlackBadGT
New Member
You're kidding , right? Ford Racing Performance Products -vs- OEM Ford parts. They're made by the same company with a different label on the box! The HD clutch may very be an upgraded clutch for a T-5 or previous generation mustang, but it is the exact same part number that came out of my car. What are you missing here? Where are you getting your information, because I got mine directly from the numbers that were printed on the clutch and pressure plate. In this case, it looks like the HD clutch is indeed a repackaged OEM product so why would they put a different part number on the same exact part? For THE LAST TIME, I saw the stock clutch and the "HD" clutch side by side and the stock pressure plate and "HD" pressure plate side by side. I read the part numbers, and they are the same. I Have this clutch in my car. I didn't have the time or patience to take it back to the store, so that is what went it, in the hopes that the stock clutch was just defective. I went about 750 miles before i had some fun with the car, and believe me, waiting that hard was tough, especially since L/T's went on at the same time.JayC said:As you said yourself the HD is a FRPP product as is the KC ........so please tell me how a FRPP product has the same part # as a OEM Ford part? Some FRPP parts are in fact OEM Fprd parts but they DO NOT have the same part #
Jay
My purpose with posting this (and arguing w/you!) is so that someone else who is considering a KC or HD clutch will reconsider and not make the same mistake I did. Bottom line, you're wrong. Please quit posting incorrect information before someone looking for reccomendations for an upgraded clutch see this and gets confused.
YardSpecial
New Member
U gain more AIR GAP every time U resurface a flywheel.
If you go thru clutchs, somthing is WRONG with the install. I have insane miles with the STOCk clutch with 200hp&270TQ at the wheels.
Clutchs just don't slip, adjustment, oil or to much air gap is the cause.
Steeda clutch cables are junk. (streach and break)
Maxuim Motorsports just came out with a kit.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/cq.asp#cables
If you go thru clutchs, somthing is WRONG with the install. I have insane miles with the STOCk clutch with 200hp&270TQ at the wheels.
Clutchs just don't slip, adjustment, oil or to much air gap is the cause.
Steeda clutch cables are junk. (streach and break)
Maxuim Motorsports just came out with a kit.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/cq.asp#cables
BlackBadGT said:
If your clutch is exactly "like" a OEM Ford clutch.......then it is not a FRPP clutch.......someone sold you a OEM clutch. I had my OEM clutch and my KC on a bench side by side, they did not look "like" each other. I'm amazed that you have the ability to "look" at parts and tell they are exactly alike.......you must be "special" or something. Im done dealing with dumbasses
Jay
BlackBadGT
New Member
JayC said:If your clutch is exactly "like" a OEM Ford clutch.......then it is not a FRPP clutch.......someone sold you a OEM clutch. I had my OEM clutch and my KC on a bench side by side, they did not look "like" each other. I'm amazed that you have the ability to "look" at parts and tell they are exactly alike.......you must be "special" or something. Im done dealing with dumbasses
Jay
Reading. Comprehension.
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