*VERY* dissapointed with my new FRPP King Cobra clutch

The "hard pedal" issued with SPEC clutches, or any clutch that has the quadrant cable adjust... the brass bracket that is mounted midway through the cable, must go. uncrimp it and toss it, use heavy zip ties and mount the cable so it cant strike the exhaust manifold. the twisted angle and the crimp of the bracket are enough to bind the cable inside the sleeve, giving the illusion of a very hard clutch. my Spec is soft as the stock one regarding pedal action. it grips great, hauls ass, even on the spray.

my guess as to the reason this guys clutch is slipping, there is enough tension on the shifter fork that the pressure plate isnt fully engaging. try adjusting the cable.
 
There is either somehting wrong with how you drive, or there is something wrong with your flywheel/transmission. There is no reason to have the kind of problems you are having. Just drop the $75 to $200 and by a brand new flywheel. It is money well spent, and you can elimainte that from the possible problem list. Also, go to a different shop just in case those guys are screwing up the install.

Now for any one that is dissing SPEC clutches I have to totally disagree. After destroying my stock clutch at the track I personally installed a SPEC stage 2 clutch. The clutch has practically the same pedal effort as stock IMO, and grabs very hard but still soft enough for daily driving.

This is what I have to say to breaking in a clutch for 500-1000 miles :chair: That is just a waste.

I took my car to the track about 2 weeks after I installed my new clutch, and I am on d/r cutting low 1.8 60'. That was about a 1.5 years and about 75+ passes ago, and the clutch is just as good if not better than the day I installed it.
 
I'm glad I followed this thread - I bought me a King Cobra clutch 2 days ago and is getting put on tomorrow because my stocker is slipping like HELL!!- I am very excited to see how much different it will feel because my clutch has been gradually slippping for about 3 months!! - ohh yea, the longtubes and 4.10s are going in next week!!! :banana: :banana:
 
The Ford HD and KC are different:

HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT
Code: M7560A302
Price: $149.95


KING COBRA CLUTCH KIT
Code: M7560C302
Price: $179.95


I put a KC in on 9/7/02...no problems thus far with daily driving and plenty of hard shifts.

Now it was stiff as a board when it was first done...thought I was going to break the cable. Got the UPR fw adj and tripple hoop clutch quadrant and it's been smooth ever since.

DO NOT EVER USE AN AFTER MARKET CABLE (esp adjustable)...they streatch and break 100% more than factory.
 
COBRA_SVT_VERT said:
Correct!

HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT
Code: M7560A302
Price: $149.95


KING COBRA CLUTCH KIT
Code: M7560C302
Price: $179.95


I put a KC in on 9/7/02...no problems thus far with daily driving and plenty of hard shifts.

Now it was stiff as a board when it was first done...thought I was going to break the cable. Got the UPR fw adj and tripple hoop clutch quadrant and it's been smooth ever since.

DO NOT EVER USE AN AFTER MARKET CABLE (esp adjustable)...they streatch and break 100% more than factory.

Unless I'm missing something here those codes are different. Are you arguing that they have the same or different codes because you agree with the guy that says they have the same code, but then post that the codes are different? Now I'm all messed up. :confused:
 
DJsZincGT said:
Unless I'm missing something here those codes are different. Are you arguing that they have the same or different codes because you agree with the guy that says they have the same code, but then post that the codes are different? Now I'm all messed up. :confused:

Sorry...quoted the wrong guy.

The Ford HD and the KC are different.
 
PG98GT said:
When it arrived, it said "Ford Racing" on the box, but also had a little stamp that said valeo

Valeo is who makes Ford clutches, don't be p.oed about that
Yup...they make both the regular, HD and KC. I don't know squat about the HD though, except that I'd spend the extra couple of bucks for the KC w/out a doubt!
 
Replaced my stock clutch at 114,000- not dead, just tired. Recommend the Centerforce Dual-Friction HIGHLY- near stock pedal effort, and GRABS! :hail2:
Downshift to third at 80 or so, or second at 50 and barks tires, no slip. Anyone know tq ratings for Centerforce clutches offhand? Not trying to hijack, just adding info possibly. :)

P.S.- Steeda clutch cable sleeve is teflon lined- approximate friction coefficient of two eels ****ing in a bucket of snot. Don't think bracket is an issue.
 
My clutch is not slipping, and grabs overall so I can't complain.

Here is my issue....some WOT shifts into third and I can feel the clutch grip and thrust me forward into the next gear...it is a pleasing feeling that barks the tires and lets me know my clutch is doing its job. Problem is, about half the time or so it will feel mushy when shifting into third, with no tire bark, no thrust forward, etc. It feels weak. Putting things like my huge rear tires, weather, road condition, etc aside, it doesn't make sence. My shifting ability is good....I don't understand it. I've gotten to the point though that unless my clutch is actually slipping, i'm just not going to worry about it...I don't understand this issue, but as long as its not hurting my ET I don't really care.

The clutch still chatters a bit. When I turn the A/C on, it chatters a lot more.

Anyways, the clutch holds the power, it's just not as tough as i'd like it to be...its a love/hate relationship.

Anyways, thats enough fickle feedback from me for the time being...
 
My clutch was going about a month ago, bought a King Cobra clutch from Summit (picked it up myself). My mechanic called me during the install and asked me if this was the right clutch I wanted put on because he told me that the clutch and pressure plate had IDENTICAL serial numbers on both of them. To the best of my knowledge the clutch was stock (guy I bought it from never mentioned an aftermarket clutch) My mechanic is a friend of the family so I know he wouldn't bull**** me about it. Just wanted to throw my .02 in.
 
BO94ZA4 said:
Centerforce I is 30% stronger than stock, Centerforce II is 60% and Dual Friction is 90%.

"ASE 9 year undercar specialist"- cool! Wish you were close enough to install gears for me!

Do you by any chance know what torque ratings go along with those %'s?
 
Centerforce doesn't rate their clutches that way, only by percentages over stock. They make each clutch for each aplication and then compare it to the stock clutch. Most cluch manufacturers has a couple of clutches for the mustang were Centerforce has 5 basic designs from '85 and up for stock replacement and then has 3 different strength levels of on almost all of those.
 
I have a King Cobra clutch in my hotted up, and heavy 5.0 convertible. Never had a problem. And I have no idea what any of you are talking about with breaking in a clutch. Sounds like a bunch of hogwash to me. I didin't see any documents in my clutch box that told me to break it in gently.

It's seen the dragstrip many times with drag radials dishing out some traction abuse. Powershifts and some real hard acceleration rather frequently and never a problem. No slipping, just positive engagement.
 
I have a friend of mine that had a '92 notchback w/ cam, heads, and intake. Ran 7.90's in the 1/8 on drag radials for over a year with a Autozone clutch. Sold the car and built another one and put another Autozone clutch in it, and ran another 6 months before selling that one. All top name brand clutches are excellent pieces, I just prefer one particular brand because I have had good results with them. Breaking in a clutch is like anything else, I have seen better results personally and elsewhere when they are cycled a few hundred miles(about a gas tank full) before any "spirited" driving.