vortech s-trim
- Thread starter zeusmoto
- Start date
bit
Founding Member
With a completely stock motor you are looking at between 300-310RWHP with 10psi and a good tune. If you take a look in my sig the old setup was a stock long block with every bolton and a Vortech SC-Trim at 6psi. Adding a Steeda #19 cam, porting the heads, and going to 10psi got me to the new setup numbers.
it takes about 17 psi to double the output of the motor at the flywheel. With that in mind the 225 would be 357@flywheel with 10 psi, 370 with 11.
You must also keep in mind that this is NOT what the motor is actually generating since it takes power to turn the blower(which is the reason for the 17, and not 14.7). So at 10psi your motor will actually be making 378 and 393@11. Your fuel system must be able to support this number. 24 or 30# injectors will work fine with the calibrated MAS & FMU. Your fuel rails will be pushing it, but will work, and I suggest a 255 with a good in-line at least, a boost-a-pump would be a good idea.
As long as you keep detonation away(good tune), all stock motor pieces will be fine, although some good gaskets and studs are a plus.
You must also keep in mind that this is NOT what the motor is actually generating since it takes power to turn the blower(which is the reason for the 17, and not 14.7). So at 10psi your motor will actually be making 378 and 393@11. Your fuel system must be able to support this number. 24 or 30# injectors will work fine with the calibrated MAS & FMU. Your fuel rails will be pushing it, but will work, and I suggest a 255 with a good in-line at least, a boost-a-pump would be a good idea.
As long as you keep detonation away(good tune), all stock motor pieces will be fine, although some good gaskets and studs are a plus.
bln92cpe
New Member
I have a 92 LX pretty much stock with an s trim at 8 lbs of boost, I dont know the HP but it is fast and gets sideways if your not careful. Currently I am having CHP build me a 306 with all forged internals and Probe pistons. On top they are asseblying Trick Flow ported heads, 1.72 roller rockers, and E cam, 42 lb injectors, hardened pushrods, 80 MM Mass air, Saleen intake, and a Romac Balancer, Center force DF clutch, and Billit flywheel, and of course all the fel pro gaskets and ARp bolts. I am not too mechanically inclined but find yourself a good stang shop in your area and ask questions. I use Chicane in Los Angeles and the owner Joe sold me a lot of parts off his project cars and will install them. Good luck bro.matm347 said:
Flash1966
Founding Member
You CAN run stock injectors. I did for almost 10k miles without any problems. But I feel much safer with the 36#ers on there. See my sig for details, I'm pretty psyched about the 330rwhp with as few mods as I've got. It was a cheap dyno day thing, 2 pulls on a dynojet and no torque readout though. 
bit
Founding Member
The stock bottom end is holding up like a champ. The ole 5.0 really likes the boost. I have seen a 150000 miles short block hold 15psi for about 20000 miles and even then nothing was wrong the owner just wanted more power so it was time for a 331. I say go for it.Mach428 said:
When my engine was still stock I put out a little over 300rwhp with my car. That was through a built AOD and a 3500 stallion convertor, I now run a tremec tko. My combo at the time was the stock s-trim setup at 10psi, 30lb injectors w/6:1 FMU, made for great driveablity and decent gas mileage.
bmo37
Founding Member
i can't wait to sc my car, going to put 10-12psi i specifically had chp build me a low compression 347 for this very reason.
