Wanting to bore and stroke a 4.6 2v

[OneSick99GT]

Hey guys/gals,
I currently have a 99 mustang gt that runs good but wanting to overhaul the lower end by upgrading to a forged crankshaft, rods and pistons. I've been on modmax and found a kit that will give me 11.1 compression with my trickflow twisted wedge heads with 9cc diamond pistons. My heads are 44cc btw. The kit on there is with a .20 bore. The reason for this change is to have a motor that will be strong NA so I can push it at the track or street on occasion. With my setup is there a way to do less of a bore or should I stick with the .20 over. What is the process of doing this. Does a machine shop have to do my bore and what does the cost look like on that. Anyone with experience in this area please speak up. Thanks in advance.

 

[wmburns]

I recently rebuilt my first engine from a bucket of parts. Here's some information about my experience. Note, YMMV!

Engine - 99 GT Engine Build - Questions and Advice

I'm thinking about tearing into my engine and giving it a rebuild, or maybe getting a new block altogether for my 99 GT. I'm less asking questions and more looking for advice. If I was going to build the 4.6 up, being an extremely inexperienced engine builder (0 experience to be exact), should...

www.stangnet.com

My recommendation if you are going this route:

• Research local machine shops in your area. Without the services of a GOOD machine shop IMO this project is destined to fail. Do not buy parts on your own and expect them to just "bolt up" without checking the measurements.
• Do not do this rebuild on your existing Windsor 4.6. Do this instead on a core salvage yard PI Romeo long block. Check car-part.com for some sample prices from a 2003+ Ford Panther (Town Car, Grand Marquis, or Crown Vic).
• I just don't see that after market 4.6 heads are worth the expense. But that's just me.
• This is almost certain to be more expensive than you think. Create a good budget for this project. The parts and services tend to add up fast.
• EXPECT this to take longer than you think. This could be an issue if this car is in DD use.

In general it's not cost effective for the average person to rebuild mass produced engines. The cost of labor and parts is just too great. This goes DOUBLE if you are paying someone else to do the work.

At the risk of being called a project "Debbie Downer", recommend that you research buying a whole complete packaged long (or short) block to understand the cost options. This option would have fewer "unknowns" than a roll your own solution.

I'm a firm believer in creating a budget before starting any "project". In the interest of being through IMO you should also consider a kit supercharge solution. The cost/HP/time difference may be a real eye opener.

 

[OneSick99GT]

My motor is already built. The reason for this is to get my compression in order on each cylinder. Is there a way to get the compression back to stock without having to bore them out. Or can you bore it out a bit then sleeve it? I guess you answered my first question by recommending me to call a machine shop. Luckily I live in Dayton, Ohio and have some of the top shops that deal with performance cars in the USA near me or within driving distance. Thanks.

 

[wmburns]

The usual way to lower CR is either:

• deeper dished pistons
• larger CC heads.
• Porting existing heads to increase combustion chamber volume.
• shorter rods and/or stoke.

I just don't see how boring out the cylinder is going to help lower CR ratio all other things being unchanged. Besides the pistons are sized to the bore. So changing the boar size means different pistons anyway.

In general repairing a block that is not normally sleeved is not cost effective repair.

Did you have an overall "plan" for the build? It seems like the parts list should have been purchased based upon the some sort of plan.

 

[OneSick99GT]

Im currently troubleshooting an issue with blue white smoke at start. Then when I hammer the gas it hesitates then launches forward leaving some blue/white smoke trail. It doesn't leave any smoke under any other driving conditions. I can get on it and it doesn't smoke just under extreme acceleration it does this. So Im hoping I don't have bad rings and if I do plan on repairing if it would need bored out. Im feeling its the valve seals but the heads are brand new. I've replaced the coils, which had a misfire cylinder 8. It fixed that but now its just throwing the p0300 code. Brand new injectors put in and plugs. All three just done with the last 10 miles. Sounds and runs like brand new except for those two problems and that p0300 code. No other codes present aside from the egr which has been deleted and just ignoring those codes. So Im preparing for the repair but looking at options. I love my motor and Im keeping it. Im willing to toss 10 grand for repairs. This car will never leave my hands. Get where Im going.