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Water Pump Bolt Broke Off Inside (with Pictures)

  • Thread starter Thread starter j0rd4n
  • Start date Start date Sep 14, 2013
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j0rd4n

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#1
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #1
i was replacing the water pump on my 88 notch and it was going smoothly.
i got to the last bolt and it was harder to turn so i carefully tried to get it out but it broke off inside. they had put "never-cease" on all of the bolts except for one...

half of the thread of the bolt is broke off inside and im wondering what do. the bolt wont thread back in at all because the end of it is bent as well as broken.


 

j0rd4n

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j0rd4n

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mikestang63

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#4
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  • #4
You can attempt to spray some PB blaster and then try an easy out to get that bolt, but you risk damaging the aluminum timing cover if not careful. Drill, tap, and helicoil that hole is the best option at this point.l. I would use stainless steel replacement bolts, run all the bolt holts with a tap to remove any crud, and anti-seize on all the threads.
 

j0rd4n

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mikestang63 said:
You can attempt to spray some PB blaster and then try an easy out to get that bolt, but you risk damaging the aluminum timing cover if not careful. Drill, tap, and helicoil that hole is the best option at this point.l. I would use stainless steel replacement bolts, run all the bolt holts with a tap to remove any crud, and anti-seize on all the threads.
Click to expand...


thanks for the super quick response!!

ive never tapped a bolt and extracted it before, so forgive me if i ask a dumb question. Can i drill and tap the hole where it is, or will i have to remove it from out of the engine and then do it, so its perfectly straight and i dont drill too far into the engine?
 

5point0stang88

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You should be fine. No need to drill. I had 3 bolts break on me and I removed the studs with a special tool. After I soaked with pb blaster.


Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 

j0rd4n

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5point0stang88 said:
You should be fine. No need to drill. I had 3 bolts break on me and I removed the studs with a special tool. After I soaked with pb blaster.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...



i cant tell from the pictures how that tool works? The part of the bolt that is broke off is atleast a .5 to an inch into the hole. How does that tool extract it?
 

5point0stang88

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j0rd4n said:
i cant tell from the pictures how that tool works? The part of the bolt that is broke off is atleast a .5 to an inch into the hole. How does that tool extract it?
Click to expand...
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjlnqlWDbfo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The teeth clamp down on it as you tighten the grip, then back out. The force is 360 degrees so it comes out great. Only 15$ for this tool.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 

j0rd4n

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5point0stang88 said:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjlnqlWDbfo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The teeth clamp down on it as you tighten the grip, then back out. The force is 360 degrees so it comes out great. Only 15$ for this tool.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...


The stud i need to extract tho isnt just sticking out like it is in that video. it is broke off inside the timing cover how could i possibly grab onto it with that tool?
 

5point0stang88

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#10
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That timing cover will come off regardless, and stud will be waiting for you. I had to pry it off with a screw driver and dead blow hammer because of the gasket and rtv. That hole in the cover isn't threaded just take it off

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 

5point0stang88

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Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 

j0rd4n

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5point0stang88 said:
That timing cover will come off regardless, and stud will be waiting for you. I had to pry it off with a screw driver and dead blow hammer because of the gasket and rtv. That hole in the cover isn't threaded just take it off

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...

oh ok. i thought maybe i wasnt going to have to take the timing cover off. dont i have to remove the crank pulley because it looks like its all connected
 

5point0stang88

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#13
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Yes to both, my crank pulley and balancer came right off.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#14
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Easiest way is to get a half size smaller diameter drill bit and drill into whats in there. Normally the thin side wall of broken bolts will be thin enough to fall out into pieces. If any is left inside you could step up the drill bit size and pray PB blaster etc into it and soak it and maybe just blow it out. Then you could lube up another bolt and run it into it breaking up the pieces off the wall and clean the remaining parts of the thread. I'd try that before taking the timing cover off. Unless you just wanna get in there and replace the chain etc while you're there.
 

5point0stang88

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Also I got ARP water pump and timing cover bolts as well as anti seize

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 
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j0rd4n

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j0rd4n

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5point0stang88 said:
Also I got ARP water pump and timing cover bolts as well as anti seize

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...

Why did this happen? I barely turned even turned it I heard this piece is important for timing also
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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yup, thats your pointer to actually set the timing.
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#19
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This is where a mark of a pencil line/pen line on your distributor shaft base/block would come in handy, along with a mark to line up the rotor on the distributor wall under the cap. Until you could get a replacement timing pointer.
 

j0rd4n

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