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Water Pump Bolt Broke Off Inside (with Pictures)

  • Thread starter Thread starter j0rd4n
  • Start date Start date Sep 14, 2013
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j0rd4n

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Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#21
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #21
Grabbin' Asphalt said:
This is where a mark of a pencil line/pen line on your distributor shaft base/block would come in handy, along with a mark to line up the rotor on the distributor wall under the cap. Until you could get a replacement timing pointer.
Click to expand...
5point0stang88 said:
Also I got ARP water pump and timing cover bolts as well as anti seize

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...


what am i doing wrong? i dont think this thing is big enough maybe but my uncle said it was plenty big enough when he lent me it
 

j0rd4n

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Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#22
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #22
its getting dark now but i'd like to have the timing cover ready to come off by the end of the night
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
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PA
Sep 14, 2013
#23
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #23
That's the wrong style puller for a balancer and you risk damage if you use it.

If you have a Autozone or Advance Auto local go rent the correct tool...ask for a harmonic balancer puller.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
 
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j0rd4n

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Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#24
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #24
Rick 91GT said:
That's the wrong style puller for a balancer and you risk damage if you use it.

If you have a Autozone or Advance Auto local go rent the correct tool...ask for a harmonic balancer puller.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

thanks!
 

j0rd4n

Member
Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#25
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #25
Rick 91GT said:
That's the wrong style puller for a balancer and you risk damage if you use it.

If you have a Autozone or Advance Auto local go rent the correct tool...ask for a harmonic balancer puller.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

do you know of any video that has a demo ? i dont understand how it works
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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Sep 14, 2013
#26
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #26
Do what @Rick91gt said and go to the auto store before it closes. Then stop eveything your doing and find some "how to" youtube videos, so you can visual see something and then go back to work tonight.
 

Noobz347

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#27
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #27
View: http://youtu.be/Q42meP_LOV0
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#28
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #28
^^^^BAM!!!!
 

j0rd4n

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Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#29
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #29


Noobz347 said:
View: http://youtu.be/Q42meP_LOV0
Click to expand...
Grabbin' Asphalt said:
^^^^BAM!!!!
Click to expand...

i was able to rent this one before they closed, i just match up the rig
 

j0rd4n

Member
Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#30
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #30
Noobz347 said:
View: http://youtu.be/Q42meP_LOV0
Click to expand...
Grabbin' Asphalt said:
^^^^BAM!!!!
Click to expand...

i was able to rent this one before they closed, i just match up the right bolts to my piece right?
 

Noobz347

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#31
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #31
j0rd4n said:
i was able to rent this one before they closed, i just match up the right bolts to my piece right?
Click to expand...

Yep
 
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j0rd4n

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Jul 29, 2013
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Sep 14, 2013
#32
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #32
Noobz347 said:
Yep
Click to expand...

ok thanks again, i should be able to finish tomorrow. its almost midnight here now hah
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#33
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #33
Yup, know the feeling, had an untimely oil pump shaft break once at a friends house in the boonies, ....long story
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Sep 14, 2013
#34
  • Sep 14, 2013
  • #34
Measure the distance the balancer is from the timing cover, so you will know the approximate distance when you go to reinstall it. Spray some pb blaster on the balancer (sometimes you need to heat up the balancer around the crank) and REMOVE THE BALANCER WASHER when you removed the balancer bolt or you will snap off the removal tool bolt in the crank snout.

When you take of the timing cover, make sure to get the two front oil pan bolts on the bottom, and be careful not to tear the pan gasket. I would inspect and replace the front seal on the cover as cheap insurance. Inspect the timing cover for warpage, rust, or pitting. They are aluminum and often leak. You will need to remove the old timing cover gasket and clean the mating surfaces- brake clean, some gasket scraper, or straight razors work. If the lower pan gasket it fairly new and is the rubber kind, you can get away with reusing it. Stuff a rag or cover the exposed pan opening to avoid getting any gasket of crap in the pan. If the pan gasket is old, ripped or cork. cut the front pieces off and buy new cork pieces. Make sure all of the gasket surfaces are squeaky clean,

Might as well check the timing chain while you have the timing cover off for slop or broken teeth. Better to replace it now than doing this job twice. Test fit the timing cover and pan gaskets- you'll need to trim them. Set the new gaskets with Blue RTV on both sides of the gaskets and put a blob of RTV in the corners of the pan gasket. Let it set up. Reinstall the timing cover

When you go to reinstall the balancer, check to see if the rubber inuslator is sticking out or if the outer ring has shifted. They are cheap and you should repalce it if damaged. If the crank snout is a little nicked up or has gunk on it, lightly take some emery and buff it out. Also, I would stick the balancer in an oven for a 1/2 hour or so at 300, and lightly oil the crank snout. Align the keyway and push it on with your hand as far as it will go, making sure it is straight. Use the installer bolt tool to reinstall the balancer, when the balance is fully installed, reinstall the original bolt and torque it to 90-100 ft lbs. Do not use a hammer or impact gun to install the balancer.
 

j0rd4n

Member
Jul 29, 2013
169
12
19
Sep 15, 2013
#35
  • Sep 15, 2013
  • #35

mikestang63 said:
Measure the distance the balancer is from the timing cover, so you will know the approximate distance when you go to reinstall it. Spray some pb blaster on the balancer (sometimes you need to heat up the balancer around the crank) and REMOVE THE BALANCER WASHER when you removed the balancer bolt or you will snap off the removal tool bolt in the crank snout.

When you take of the timing cover, make sure to get the two front oil pan bolts on the bottom, and be careful not to tear the pan gasket. I would inspect and replace the front seal on the cover as cheap insurance. Inspect the timing cover for warpage, rust, or pitting. They are aluminum and often leak. You will need to remove the old timing cover gasket and clean the mating surfaces- brake clean, some gasket scraper, or straight razors work. If the lower pan gasket it fairly new and is the rubber kind, you can get away with reusing it. Stuff a rag or cover the exposed pan opening to avoid getting any gasket of crap in the pan. If the pan gasket is old, ripped or cork. cut the front pieces off and buy new cork pieces. Make sure all of the gasket surfaces are squeaky clean,

Might as well check the timing chain while you have the timing cover off for slop or broken teeth. Better to replace it now than doing this job twice. Test fit the timing cover and pan gaskets- you'll need to trim them. Set the new gaskets with Blue RTV on both sides of the gaskets and put a blob of RTV in the corners of the pan gasket. Let it set up. Reinstall the timing cover

When you go to reinstall the balancer, check to see if the rubber inuslator is sticking out or if the outer ring has shifted. They are cheap and you should repalce it if damaged. If the crank snout is a little nicked up or has gunk on it, lightly take some emery and buff it out. Also, I would stick the balancer in an oven for a 1/2 hour or so at 300, and lightly oil the crank snout. Align the keyway and push it on with your hand as far as it will go, making sure it is straight. Use the installer bolt tool to reinstall the balancer, when the balance is fully installed, reinstall the original bolt and torque it to 90-100 ft lbs. Do not use a hammer or impact gun to install the balancer.
Click to expand...
 

j0rd4n

Member
Jul 29, 2013
169
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Sep 15, 2013
#36
  • Sep 15, 2013
  • #36


The easy out broke right as I tried to hammer it in. I didn't even begin to twist it yet
 

mikestang63

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Aug 27, 2012
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#37
  • Sep 15, 2013
  • #37
j0rd4n said:


The easy out broke right as I tried to hammer it in. I didn't even begin to twist it yet
Click to expand...
Hammer? You don't hammer the easy out into the stripped bolt. You first use a center punch, then drill out the bolt to the size of the easy out. The easy it is a reverse thread to remove the bolt.
Watch this video that shows the proper way to use the tool.

 

j0rd4n

Member
Jul 29, 2013
169
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Sep 15, 2013
#38
  • Sep 15, 2013
  • #38
mikestang63 said:
Hammer? You don't hammer the easy out into the stripped bolt. You first use a center punch, then drill out the bolt to the size of the easy out. The easy it is a reverse thread to remove the bolt.
Watch this video that shows the proper way to use the tool.

Click to expand...
I watched that exact video.
You see the part where he taps it in with a hammer? I did that and it broke off the tip into the hole I pre drilled
 

j0rd4n

Member
Jul 29, 2013
169
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Sep 15, 2013
#39
  • Sep 15, 2013
  • #39
mikestang63 said:
Hammer? You don't hammer the easy out into the stripped bolt. You first use a center punch, then drill out the bolt to the size of the easy out. The easy it is a reverse thread to remove the bolt.
Watch this video that shows the proper way to use the tool.

Click to expand...

I definitely hit it harder than that tho because the first time when I started to spin it in came off so I thought I should hit it in the hole slightly harder
 

jrichker

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#40
  • Sep 15, 2013
  • #40
Drill bits and easy outs are extremely hard and cannot be removed by ordinary means. It takes a solid carbide bit and extreme care to remove a broken drill bit or broken easy out. Now it is tow time to the automotive machine shop and pain in the wallet..
 
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