Water pump install

[EXTRPR50]

Where can I get a step by step guide to do my water pump? Some site maybe. Thanx. 93 coupe, 5-oh.

 

[4G-KDMP]

from what i can see it's not that hard to do, even though i've only do it once.
i'm sure someone can find a site or fill you in though.

 

[5.0TailPipeHump]

>>>http://www.mustang50magazine.com/howto/138_0412w_edelbrock_victor_series_water_pump/index.html<<<

 

[71swing]

First off you need to get a clintons manaul or something from your local parts store. This will help your alot in the future.

Other than that it is pretty straight forward. Unbolt everything the is in the way.

Take the waterpump off.

Clean all the surfaces up.

Bolt up the new one with a new gasket, Torgue to 18-20lbs.

Put everything back on that you took off.

 

[Deleted member 87397]

Tailpipe, that's a good article. I just bought the same pump and I'm getting ready to put it in this weekend. Oh and 71Swing, when did the Clintons get into writing tech manuals? Just wondering.

 

[89 Saleen#455]

By far and away, the hardest part of replacing your waterpump is removing the old bolts and studs WITHOUT SNAPPING them off below the timing cover. Do a search on this forum for snapped waterpump bolts or accessory studs and you can read about the horror first hand. Snapping a bolt/stud will add another 4-5 hours to the job if it breaks behind the timing cover. Do yourself a favor and buy some PB Blaster and soak those bolts every chance you get. Heating the areas around the bolts with a propane torch will also help in the removal process. Whatever you do, DON'T USE AN IMPACT GUN to remove any of bolts and studs. Just try and apply force in a "back & forth/ up & down motion. Try not to over exert too much steady pressure with a breaker bar in any one direction. The key is slow repetitive back & forth motions. I highly recommend replacing the bolts and studs. You can buy all replacement grade 8 bolts at Lowes for short money. Here's the link for the accessory stud kit:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RNB&mfrpartnumber=23744
Each kit only comes with one long stud, so you need to purchase two kits to get 2 of the longer studs for replacement. Use plenty of anti-seize on all bolts and studs in case you have to replace the waterpump in the future.

 

[71swing]

Sorry, Typo I ment Chilton's

 

[Shakerhood]

By far and away, the hardest part of replacing your waterpump is removing the old bolts and studs WITHOUT SNAPPING them off below the timing cover. Do a search on this forum for snapped waterpump bolts or accessory studs and you can read about the horror first hand. Snapping a bolt/stud will add another 4-5 hours to the job if it breaks behind the timing cover. Do yourself a favor and buy some PB Blaster and soak those bolts every chance you get. Heating the areas around the bolts with a propane torch will also help in the removal process. Whatever you do, DON'T USE AN IMPACT GUN to remove any of bolts and studs. Just try and apply force in a "back & forth/ up & down motion. Try not to over exert too much steady pressure with a breaker bar in any one direction. The key is slow repetitive back & forth motions. I highly recommend replacing the bolts and studs. You can buy all replacement grade 8 bolts at Lowes for short money. Here's the link for the accessory stud kit:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RNB&mfrpartnumber=23744
Each kit only comes with one long stud, so you need to purchase two kits to get 2 of the longer studs for replacement. Use plenty of anti-seize on all bolts and studs in case you have to replace the waterpump in the future.

There are 2 Long and 1 Short in the Kit that I bought.

 

[Shakerhood]

A Trick I like to do is Trace the New Water Pump on a Piece of Cardboard and then poke holes were the Studs and bolts go, then when taking the old one off I stick the bolts and studs in the cardboard so there is no way they can get mixed up.

 

[HaynStang]

A Trick I like to do is Trace the New Water Pump on a Piece of Cardboard and then poke holes were the Studs and bolts go, then when taking the old one off I stick the bolts and studs in the cardboard so there is no way they can get mixed up.

Good tip, I did this as well.

Replacing the WP is easy, just be careful when removing the bolts like 89 Saleen said. I'd second soaking them down with some PB or Liquid Wrench the night before the job and then again a couple hours before starting. Just go slow and use a regular length ratchet to unbolt them, not a breaker bar or air tools. Mine came out with no issues but were pretty rusty and gross... I cleaned them up with a wire wheel and put them back in with a generous amount of antiseize.

Don't forget to check your hoses including the heater hoses and the bypass... might as well replace them at the same time if they're getting old.