WAY Down on Power... I Hate my Car

Swarzkopf · Jul 5, 2006

Some may remember that awhile ago I cracked my Cobra lower. I replaced it with a TFS Street Heat w/TFS elbow adapter. Before the Cobra cracked, the motor was running strong and though I had some converter issues in 2nd and 3rd, first gear was a downright beast and I was able to annihilate my 275/40 drag radials easily.

Well, I got the new manifold installed. Fired it up, took it for a spin, and the car was WAY, WAY, WAY down on power...I mean, pathetic. Absolutely mother****ing pathetic.

Up to 2000 RPM with LIGHT driving it felt normal. The car idled well. But anytime I dipped into the throttle it just...choked. It revved very slowly and just felt like there was an anchor tied to the back of it.

So after some research, I figured that since the front fuel tube (between the two rails) was pressed between the distributor and lower intake fairly snugly, it may have been pinching and causing the driver's side bank to starve. I pulled the upper and ground more material off of the lower to accomodate the fuel tube. It has room now.

I then reinstalled the upper. Same symptoms as before.

Timing is set at 10*. Fuel pressure is set at 40PSI. All sensors are connected. No check engine light. No noticeable vacuum leaks. Idle is rock solid. No weird sounds. Just NO POWER at all- I'm confident that both my wife's ZX2 and my V6 Firebird could absolutely walk my 5.0 right now, and that really sucks.

I know it's a long shot (and this post is more of a rant then anything) but if anyone has a suggestion I'd love to hear it, before I have this POS towed somewhere.

Pokageek · Jul 5, 2006

This is a tough one, but just like computers, you always go back to what changed or what you changed and was it running right b4 the change. Sounds dumb but 95% of the time it works. You'll figure it out, it just is going to take more time than you originally thought.

Now, what exactly did you do? Was it a install of an upper intake or lower and upper. I know you bought the parts but what exactly did you install before this started happening..just the upper?? Is your distributor in right? could it have moved at all? No pinging? Recheck all the hookups, even the throttle cable and pcv.

Swarzkopf · Jul 5, 2006

Now, what exactly did you do? Was it a install of an upper intake or lower and upper. I know you bought the parts but what exactly did you install before this started happening..just the upper??

I replaced my Cobra intake with a TFS Street Heat upper and lower intake.

Is your distributor in right? could it have moved at all? No pinging?

Nope, timing verified to be 10* BTDC. First thing I suspected was that my distributor had skipped timing or something similar. No pinging. Just no power. The car is probably making ~110 RWHP right now.

Recheck all the hookups, even the throttle cable and pcv.

I've done this about 20 times now...everything is connected- and even if it weren't, it'd have to be something major to cut this much power out.

I'm really at a total loss. If I had money I'd probably go buy a newer mod car right now, throw a couple bolt-ons at it and say **** it- that's how frustrated I am.

Pokageek · Jul 5, 2006

Hmm... If you are really at a loss like you say, call up kauffman motorsports. They are in PA and were recommended to me by KillerCanary and a coupla others. They are a great bunch of guys and may be able to help you.

http://www.kauffmanmotorsports.com/

Kauffman MotorSports Inc
Monday thru Friday: 9 -5
Saturday by appointment
Phone: 717-502-8880

It's worth a call.

Therian · Jul 5, 2006

any problems on the airflow side? filters clean, MAF clean, TB plate opening properly? might want to check fuel pressure from idle - 5800rpm...how does it rev well at idle?.

Is the exhaust side functioning properly?

codes checked? (just cause the CE light isn't coming on doesn't mean you're not throwing codes)

are you sure the distributor is working properly (is it stock?). and I assume the wires are somewhat new? have you ran it in the dark to check for any problems?

Pokageek · Jul 5, 2006

MAF is a good suggestion. I didn't mention it at first b/c it seems related to the changeover somehow. Try cleaning it. It has worked WONDERS for people. You can find "how to" in search too.

TrueBlue95GT · Jul 6, 2006

How did the cobra lower crack in the first place?

wytstang · Jul 6, 2006

The only thing I can think of is maybe the vac lines that go under the upper intake maybe crossed. I don't even know if that would cause low power though.

95mustang_gt · Jul 6, 2006

check the connections around the cai.This happen to me yesterday and it happen to be where the cai meet the throttle body,it was a small gap there.Fix that and the car felt a lot better

dstanggt50 · Jul 6, 2006

I would try to pull codes even though you don't have the check engine light on, just to see if there are any codes, or codes in memory(may indicate an intermitten problem). You could also try to reinstall the intake to see if there was anything you missed, (how I found out that my lower intake bolts were all to loose). With my car, after 100 miles or so, some of my lower intake bolts loosen if I've taken it off recently. Besides the codes, cleaning maf, checking tq on intake bolts, if you can get a hold of a scan tool that measures your maf voltage. (However, I think usually only snap on or ford scan tools will do this)

Swarzkopf · Jul 6, 2006

Guys:

Thanks for the input. I was doubting that it's any of the typical MAF, dizzy, ect. problems since the car was great before the intake swap, and the MAF is a clean year and a half old Pro-M piece. The spark plug wires are Accell 8.8's and are not arcing.

Everything is sealed well...vacuum is solid at 17-18 lbs and it idles well.

The exhaust seems fine...nothing is broken down there.

any problems on the airflow side? filters clean, MAF clean, TB plate opening properly?

All checked and good.

might want to check fuel pressure from idle - 5800rpm...how does it rev well at idle?.

It revs smoothly and fine at idle. Good idea on checking the fuel pressure while I rev, I will do this!

I would try to pull codes even though you don't have the check engine light on, just to see if there are any codes, or codes in memory(may indicate an intermitten problem).

Yeah, I'll do this too, another good suggestion.

legalize420 · Jul 6, 2006

i know you said you checked all the connection but did you confirm that the firing order is correct. the first time i took my intake off i crossed two plug wires and the car had no power. just a suggestion. good luck

FORCED2DV8 · Jul 6, 2006

It has to be something simple, plug wires crossed, not enough fuel, Does it rev up all the way in neutral? check all your electrical connectors that you disconnected while changing the intake, even if they are attatched pull them apart make sure no grease, and has a good contact.

blksn955.o · Jul 6, 2006

You did put the spout back in right??? You did remove it to set the base timing right???

You have a tweecer right? have you logged the prob. to make sure some sensor is not pluged in or something goofy?

You were at comp. stroke on #1 when you put the dizzy in correct.

I know its basic stupid stuff and I am not trying to be insulting so sorry if I come off that way. I didnt see in the posts anything about the spout.

gcomfx.com · Jul 6, 2006

Shawn - what in the world are we going to do with this? We keep jinxing each other back and forth.

Everything suggested sounds right. Definately check the codes. Also pull your plugs.... see if any are gas soaked, or you have a plug that doesn't look like the others in color. Might help you determine if it's a plug wire, or an injector.

Oh and for the person wondering how you crack a lower intake. I just cracked mine not to long ago changing the coolant sensor.

WHITE94COBRA · Jul 6, 2006

This really sounds like the spout was not installed, that is all the symptoms of leaving it out... Or even a cut wire.

Green 94 5.0 · Jul 6, 2006

as someone said a couple posts above me, verify the firing order. i had the #1 and #2 wires crossed a while back causing similar symptoms.

Swarzkopf · Jul 6, 2006

Firing order is correct. No plug wires were even removed...I pull the cap with the wires still attached and just move it out of the way. Timing was set correctly. Spout is in.

Also pull your plugs.... see if any are gas soaked, or you have a plug that doesn't look like the others in color. Might help you determine if it's a plug wire, or an injector.

Thanks man, another good suggestion...

Unfortunately my Tweecer is not an R/T (I bought it only for transmission functions, so datalogging wasn't a consideration at the time for my very basic bolt-on combo...but it'd be nice right now, huh?).

At this point, I'm going to:

1. Check the fuel pressure while revving in neutral.
2. Pull the codes.
3. Look at all of the plugs.
4. Disconnect and re-attach all electrical connections.

If that doesn't do it...in a few months when I have $$ again it'll be going to a local speed shop (Rodeheaver's Hotrod, they specialize in Mustangs, for any Pittsburgh area guys) and I'll pay them to figure this ****ing goddamn dicksucking POS out. Ah, that felt good.

Thanks guys.
-Shawn

v6v8swap · Jul 6, 2006

If the manifold is new (and maybe if it isn't), I would check to make sure that all the air passages in it are open and not clogged with something. The upper could have some foreign object in it that won't let the engine breath. Seems like that it could be an airflow problem since it will idle and go to 2000 rpm and then fall down. Good luck in your hunt. It is usually something simple in these situations, so keep your chin up. Phil

Swarzkopf · Jul 6, 2006

The manifold is new....I am sure that the lower is clear of obstruction. I did NOT check the upper, and I sure hope that it's not clogged with something! It wouldn't particularly suprise me though, and I'll add that to my list. Thanks.

WAY Down on Power... I Hate my Car

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